Firez34

iTrader: (5)

Hi guys I have a 98 classic turbo wagon which seems to be lower on boost than it was.

Are you supposed to be able to see the actuator arm move when you rev the car as I can only see it move about a mm as though it tries but is stuck closed. Also from idle just tickling the rev's the boost solenoid is ticking like mad, lift the rev's a bit more and it goes quiet is this normal. Checked all the pipes and clips from the airbox to the throttle body inc under the tmic and they are all nice and tight no splits or leaks. Any help or pointers will be greatly appreciated, thanks Steve.

Firez34

iTrader: (5)

Any input anyone?

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

The boost gauge doesn't get upto 0pisg (14.7psia) when revving at standstill - the engine needs load for the boost fully come in. (Well, that's true for my car/gauge, anyway).

Chances are the hose off the comp nozzle has worked loose slightly, thus leaking some boost away - or, indeed, the hose to the intercooler. I'd check all post-turbo boost hoses/unions and retighten them as necessary.


Funny you should mention about ticking BCS -- my Apexi 3-port has just started making a racket. Just like yours: throttle to 0psig (14.7psia) ticking happens; beyond that, quietens.

Firez34

iTrader: (5)

Thanks fella I'll re-check all the hoses today but I still wanted to know if you can see the acuator move when you rev the car or if there is an easy way to check to see if the actuator is working correctly.

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

Do you have a decent digital camera or cameraphone with a light? If so, you could secure it under the bonnet, pointing at the wastegate actuator pivot union...!!!

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

For the ticking BCS....

Dave at API gave me a tip: cut a suitable shaped piece of rubber pad, or sorbothane, and use as a gasket between the BCS body and its mounting bracket. That way, the ticking shouldn't transfer through to the body, and therefore become all quiet again.

Firez34

iTrader: (5)

Ok mate have just the job to to that with the boost/sol but don't have anything I want to risk to try and video the acuator. What makes me think the actuator is suspect is that the metal diaphram housing where the bar comes out from is worn into a funny slot shape and the bar is scaping on the metal at one side. I think originally that it would have been just a round hole with some clearence.

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

Yeah, the arm comes out of a circular hole in the w/g housing...

But I think there should be a 'half-ball' plastic socket (usually baby blue colour) that's fitted around the arm (the round side of it butting up against the inside of the housing's exit hole). This acts as a sort of 'universal joint' so that the arm can be easily moved about when initially setting up the actuator arm. Also, you may have a dust shield boot that goes over the arm and butts up to the outside of the w/g housing.

It could be that the locknut for the turn buckle has loosened and that you've now lost the w/g act. pre-load on the pivot lever....!! This possibly might account for the lower boost level...???

But your worn housing's hole could well be the issue -- possibly a whole new w/g act. is needed? Harvey sells various w/g act.'s with with different rated springs...

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

Just noticed you're in Chesterfield.... And so is Scooby Clinic!

Why not get it on their rollers -- that way the w/g act. can be visually observed, as well as corroborating it with the dyno's log readout, etc......