DonNedly

iTrader: (10)

Just fitted my boost gauge and oil pressure gauges without any problems and started on my oil temp gauge.
I was trying to remove the bung above number 3 cylinder and i snapped my hex bit off in the bung! Can't get the damn thing out now mainly due to the access being a pig.
Any thoughts on getting this out given accessability issues.
If not is there somewhere else i can fit an oil temp sensor?

The Rig

iTrader: (13)

Not sure on how to remove it,as you say,access is an issue,in these cases the usual is the good old cant,spell it, oxysetalyn torch etc,but we all dont have one of those LOL, so maybe a small portable one you can buy,like a car fire extinguiser size.(if its seized on in there when it snapped) or mole grips if access allows

if you cant get it out, other oil temp locations,some are preffered,some are not, is in the sump or where i have mine, an oil filter sandwich plate (oil filter relocated to behinddrivers headlight) with the thread for a sensor,but again,thats more expense

good luck

scoobyhyp

put the socket back on it and turn back the other way it looks wedged to me if it wont budge leave it in there and buy a sandwich plate easy option ...

Hobstar82

Oxy torch ain't gonna work as it's not seized in that respect. If there is enough of the tool poking out use a socket over the sheared hex key, dont carry on and try to undo, go opposite to get the fooked tool out! If that works then use hammer and punch and hit top of bung to shock the threads and then using new tool try and undo. If that's not an option you wanna get a hammer and chisel but not a sharpe one as this will cut the sheared hex. A short sharp tap in the opposite direction of shear force should break the lock of the tool in the bung. Then get some mole grips, grip it tight, wobble and hopefully it'll come out. You wanna grip it tight once as you don't wanna round off the end of the hex. If that happens you'll never get a good grip on it again! Failing that use a punch and hit the bung to break the lock on the thread and then use the chisel to tap the bung out. Hope this makes sense and helps

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Socket on it with a reach adpator, turn as if to INSERT the bung, and it should free off, then pick it out with a pair of long-nosed pliers.

Then invest in a LONG GOOD QUALITY hex key for the job: mine was £8.

DonNedly

iTrader: (10)

wow thanks for the responses. I took enough hoses off to get the mole grips in there and managed to yank the sucker out. yay!
Problem now is i can't get the bung out. I tried with a long hex key (should of tried this first) and with a better hex bit on a ratchet but it won't budge! Its sooo tight i just can't undo the sonofabitch.
I think i'm gonna have to go sandwich plate or sump plug but i wanted to do it right and put it on cylinder 3.

mickywrx

iTrader: (29)

Use a breaker bar, rather than the ratchet? Should give better leverage.

DonNedly

iTrader: (10)

I dont have a long enough socket to give me the clearance to get a breaker bar on.
Time for a trip to the tool shop me reckons.
I'm due an oil change soon so i may just go for sandwich plate or sump plug.
Has anyone used this:
sump plug adaptor
Sump plug is the same as drain plug right?

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Do it right, get that sucker out.

Long hex key and breaker bar.

Mine was T-handle key, I put the largest ring spanner I could find on it and heaved. When it came, I thought it MUST have sheared off, but it came out clean

mickywrx

iTrader: (29)

Get a good quality hex socket, extension bar and a breaker bar. I would use 1/2 inch socket etc. Halfrauds professional range is the way to go if buying today, if one of their parts breaks they replace it.

DonNedly

iTrader: (10)

yay i got the sucker out. did exactly what alcazar said. Long hex key with the longest ring spanner i could find. It was an absolute pig to get out, thought i must of sheared it when it suddenly went but it came out.
All gauges now in and some bloody knuckles for my troubles.
Thanks guys!

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

LOL, EXACTLY how I felt.

It went almost with a bang and I was SURE I'd sheared it, I was expecting a bill for removal and such or it p*ssing oil out.

Good feeling when it goes right though, isn't it?

DonNedly

iTrader: (10)

yeah it made a loud crack but i was so pleased to get that stubborn b1tch out.
Getting the intercooler back on was **** as well. Looks alright for now until i get a pod:

BlueBugEye

iTrader: (12)

Looks a lot like mine!

No pod yet and trying to work out if I prefer it tbh.

For the bung I used a 1/2 inch drive hex socket on long extension and breaker bar! Getting the sensor in tight enough was the pain for me!

DonNedly

iTrader: (10)

yeah you can only do tiny 1/8th turns at a time and i'm was so worried i'd over tighten it and knacker the block but at he same time i really didn't want to take the intercooler off for a third time if it leaked.
no signs of any leaks tho so all seems well.

Not sure about the pod. I don't want to lose my clock but the only ones i have seen that allow you to keep the clock are carbon fibre. The reflection on the windscreen is bad enough in the scooby already without adding shiney bits to the dash.
hmmm.

P1Drifter

iTrader: (7)

as long as it isn't a moving part !
broke a breaker bar and they weren't interested in the slightest

mickywrx

iTrader: (29)

Really? I know they don't cover the ratchet mechanisms.

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

I wrapped mine in PTFE tape to avoid leaks, getting it started was the worst, so I sort of screwed a palstic pen barrel into it, used that as an extension to start it, then wobbled and unscrewed the pen barrel and used a socket.