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Oil and plug change one 2001 wrx bugeye

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Old 02 April 2011, 03:47 PM
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scoobyjunky
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Default Oil and plug change one 2001 wrx bugeye

hello all was wondering how easy a complete oil and plug change would be on the bug as i havent got the doe for a full service yet needs to be done asap though cant believe haynes didnt make a Manuel for this car!!
Old 02 April 2011, 04:08 PM
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musso2010
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Easy enough. 2 hours max and even then thats pushing it. I can do mine in an hour.
Old 02 April 2011, 06:34 PM
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hi m8 i just done mine and got the oil filter and washer from ebay and the oil from OPIE

Fuchs Titan Race Pro S 10W-50 Ester Synthetic Engine Oil -5 Litres
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/


Ebay link for oil filter and washer
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...:WNARL:GB:1123



should only take about an hour, just make sure you fill the oil filter first before fitting it
Old 02 April 2011, 07:00 PM
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sweet yeah i always use the oilman does really good prices wot about the spark plugs are they a mission to get to does any 1 have a few pics maybe a project link?? cheers again
Old 02 April 2011, 07:09 PM
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i had my last ones fitted but im going to change them myself this time so if you find a cheap place for them let me know
Old 02 April 2011, 07:14 PM
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musso2010
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http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.p...hangeProcedure
http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.p...laceSparkPlugs

I got my spark plugs from ebay. Also think oilman sells them aswell.
Old 02 April 2011, 07:24 PM
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ian7675
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Someone suggested disconnecting the crank sensor and turning the engine over to get some oil around it before firing up.....but I'm not sure if there is any advantage to this? I'm doing mine tomorrow anyway.
Old 02 April 2011, 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by ian7675
Someone suggested disconnecting the crank sensor and turning the engine over to get some oil around it before firing up.....but I'm not sure if there is any advantage to this? I'm doing mine tomorrow anyway.
if you dont engine rebuild
Old 02 April 2011, 07:34 PM
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Then I will be disconnecting it then
Old 02 April 2011, 08:31 PM
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sorry but i have read this before, whats the point of the disconnecting the crank sensor and turning it over.

if you leave the car for lets say 3 weeks do you disconnect the crank sensor and turn it over then reconnect, i think not.

i have done 3 bugeye with no problem. fill the oil filter buddy before fitting and you will be fine.
Old 02 April 2011, 09:30 PM
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Took me two hours tonight to get to the damn plugs... access is awful, 3/8" socket set may make it easier, as I only have a 1/2" set.

Oil and check over in the morning.

HTH

dunx
Old 02 April 2011, 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Modifications
sorry but i have read this before, whats the point of the disconnecting the crank sensor and turning it over.

if you leave the car for lets say 3 weeks do you disconnect the crank sensor and turn it over then reconnect, i think not.

i have done 3 bugeye with no problem. fill the oil filter buddy before fitting and you will be fine.
There's a fundamental difference though!...

...The difference being that when you unscrew the oil filter, the hydraulic 'lock' gets broken. So air now rushes in to fill the void - even after you've put new oil in.

So that air needs to purged out of the system - and it happens when you prime the oil system by turning the motor over. The theory being, that the air could possibly drive oil out from tolerance 'twixt bearing/journal, and may cause transient metal-metal contact during the cranking process. So as little pressure on the big ends as possible is advised when doing priming - hence dry cranking over on the starter ONLY, at only c.200rpm (compared to c.1,500rpm odd when the engine's firing).

It only takes seconds to disconnect the crank sensor, so why take the 'risk'...

Last edited by joz8968; 02 April 2011 at 09:58 PM.
Old 02 April 2011, 10:15 PM
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ian7675
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I have to admit I've never heard of anyone doing this before but it does make sense and for the sake of a few seconds it can't hurt. Is there any recommended amount of time to turn it over or should a few seconds suffice?
Old 02 April 2011, 11:09 PM
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You crank until the oil light on the dash goes out. A 20-30 second burst should normally do it...
Old 03 April 2011, 04:54 PM
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spot on didnt know about the scoobypedia thats a great help ill be taking the crank sensor off as it makes sense get the oil through the system cheers for the help lads!!!
Old 03 April 2011, 06:45 PM
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Changed oil and filter on mine last week.As for filling oil filter?Only holds half a tea cup full at most so no point unless some of you are fitting filters the size of buckets, did not disconnect crank sensor,never have done.Started her up and oil light went out immediatly on cranking.On my fifth Impreza and changed oil and filter many times with no problems.

Last edited by namron; 03 April 2011 at 06:47 PM.
Old 03 April 2011, 07:42 PM
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You keep filling the filter and letting it drain in... Then repeat... Then repeat...

When the filter element fully saturated and the filter full up, it holds around 500ml, I think.
Old 03 April 2011, 07:57 PM
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thats all i did with mine, just filled it let it settle and refulled, did take a good 20 mins but the best way to be fair
Old 03 April 2011, 09:48 PM
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Well done mine today and followed all advice and it works fine.

I'm actually surprised how much oil that little filter can hold to fill it up.
Old 03 April 2011, 10:03 PM
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i didnt disconnect the crank sensor and am now looking at a rebuild,this is such a grey area,wish there was some clarification.
Old 03 April 2011, 10:10 PM
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LOL, don't be silly. You won't necessarily have your bottom end go. The odds are still very much on your side by 1000s to 1! As if it was that cut and dried, there'd by hardly any Scoobs on the road!

Just there's anecdotal eveidence of some engines letting go soon after. It's thought that, after a oil/filter change, the compression/air in the system just brings forward a big end failure that was no doubt going to happen in the future anyway. So it's the wear to date in the big end bearing/s that would, ultimately, be the reason.

Read namron's post # 16 for reassurance...

Last edited by joz8968; 03 April 2011 at 10:14 PM.
Old 03 April 2011, 10:14 PM
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bottom end failure at 38k?thats not good then,i was told that if you dont dry crank after an oil change the back bearing is starved of oil and ultimately fails.it cant just be a coincidence that it happened just 50 miles after being done.
Old 03 April 2011, 10:17 PM
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Oh sorry, I got the wrong end of the stick!

So you did the change without the sensor disconnected, and now you've got bottom end knocking 50m later?! (I thought you were just speculating, sorry).

**** man, sorry to hear that!


To all the 'doubters' ^^^....

Last edited by joz8968; 03 April 2011 at 10:36 PM.
Old 03 April 2011, 10:22 PM
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yes couldnt believe it,hindsight is a wonderful thing,did the research afterwards and found out that this had caused the failure.changed the oil the same way on every other car i have owned and just didnt realise the procedure was different on a subaru.costly mistake
Old 03 April 2011, 10:22 PM
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On my third Impreza in 7 years. That's at least 14 oil changes while I've owned them. Never carried out the additional sensor disconnect and never had to rebuild either......
Old 03 April 2011, 10:26 PM
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perhaps i am just really unlucky
Old 03 April 2011, 10:27 PM
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As said, it prob could just accelerate/bring on a bottom end failure that would have gone anyway.

It's been debated since the year dot on here...


And yes, looks like you are one of the handful (relatively! speaking) of unlucky ones.

Last edited by joz8968; 03 April 2011 at 10:29 PM.
Old 03 April 2011, 10:34 PM
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thought so lol
Old 03 April 2011, 10:36 PM
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newby, ring API for no strings attached advice/options/prices. They can do an 'economic repair,' depending on the state of the crank. You'll be in good, safe hands if you can get it sorted there...
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