Brake advice
#1
Brake advice
Hi all,
I was in the process of changing the lines on my 2005 sti type uk so decided to change the fluid and bleed the system.
I noticed that there were 2 bleed nipples per caliper, i am guessing that both need to be bled due to potentially having old fluid/air at both sides of the piston. I will be starting on the furthest caliper away from the master cylinder and the nipple closest to the main line - is this correct?
Also it was mentioned that the bleeding may have to be done with the car level due to a biasing device/valve for the brakes - is this correct?
Final question i have just had major dramas with a split ultralite internal wheel nut and was wanting to buy a more robust nut to fit on my speedline pff7s. i cant find the spec of the wheel to see if it is a 60 degree seat or a radius seat any ideas and which nuts/lugs are recommended (prefer black due to the anthresite wheels)
All help greatly appreciated. Pics to follow
I was in the process of changing the lines on my 2005 sti type uk so decided to change the fluid and bleed the system.
I noticed that there were 2 bleed nipples per caliper, i am guessing that both need to be bled due to potentially having old fluid/air at both sides of the piston. I will be starting on the furthest caliper away from the master cylinder and the nipple closest to the main line - is this correct?
Also it was mentioned that the bleeding may have to be done with the car level due to a biasing device/valve for the brakes - is this correct?
Final question i have just had major dramas with a split ultralite internal wheel nut and was wanting to buy a more robust nut to fit on my speedline pff7s. i cant find the spec of the wheel to see if it is a 60 degree seat or a radius seat any ideas and which nuts/lugs are recommended (prefer black due to the anthresite wheels)
All help greatly appreciated. Pics to follow
#2
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Start with the inside nipple first - you work from the offside front to nearside rear then nearside front to offside rear.
Is what it says in Subaru's own manual.
And worked on mine no probs this weekend hel lines on
Is what it says in Subaru's own manual.
And worked on mine no probs this weekend hel lines on
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LOL u gonna love this.....
On my not so level drive - nose high lol.....
But on blocks on one side jacks on the other all 4 wheels in the air and off.
Was easiest way - put motul race fluid in... Lines and fluid have made a big difference.
Emptied system and then bled round once. pedal felt a bit spongy so went round again and was spot on.
What colour you gone for - mine are red transparent - not that it makes any difference cant see the bloody things lol.......
On my not so level drive - nose high lol.....
But on blocks on one side jacks on the other all 4 wheels in the air and off.
Was easiest way - put motul race fluid in... Lines and fluid have made a big difference.
Emptied system and then bled round once. pedal felt a bit spongy so went round again and was spot on.
What colour you gone for - mine are red transparent - not that it makes any difference cant see the bloody things lol.......
#5
Gone for silver with ebc 307+ fluid. Changed the front disks to two piece floating bell from performance friction with ebc ndx blue stuff pads all round. Had some dramas as per my previous post like a brake line not wanting to come off - god bless brake spanners lol and a sheared ultralite internal wheel lug
#7
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Wheel nuts are M12x1.25, 60 deg taper seat and usually 19mm hex as that is the size of the OE toolkit wheel nut wrench. Aftermarket wheels generally do not have steel inserts so OE nuts are not safe and you need nuts with a deeper tapered section cheapest solution as below, these aren't as rough as the picture suggests..
http://www.priracing.com/product.php...1-25--19mm-hex
http://www.priracing.com/product.php...1-25--19mm-hex
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