Nathan6301

Please help me shed some light on my problem, i have a 2004 wrx and sunday i changed my oil and oil filter, i used a genuine subaru oil filter and mobil 1 5-30w fully synthetic oil, now after 120 miles shes knocking like hell think its bottom end. i drained oil changed filter witch i filled up before fitting and filled the engine to max on dipstick, turned the car over with ignition fuse removed to prim oil the fired her up checking the oil the next morning it was bang on the cold max, drivining home she started to tap and then just got louder and louder limped it home and now she sits wounded lol. i just cant understand what would make it nock.
any help would be great

Parrg341

iTrader: (8)

From experience ive had issues with mobil 1, and a few others may say also.

sorry to hear mate

Nathan6301

Really, but would it destroy the bearings that quickly ?

Parrg341

iTrader: (8)

I have read up that there are additives in mobil 1 oils, that helps keep residue and dirt from "clogging" this causes scoobs to have a lack of lube in the bearings.

My experience wasnt as quick as yours but was under 2000miles.

I now use ethia millers or valvoline fully synthetic 10w30 Ford-zetec/Vauxhall 16v oil. Its brilliant and even better when driven hard.

Ill try and find info for you.

Nathan6301

that would be a great help

Parrg341

iTrader: (8)

Found another mobil 1 failure second paragraph

http://www.iwsti.com/forums/2-5-lite...la-fail-5.html

Nathan6301

how can i tell if its defiantly my bottom end bearing thats have gone or are going ?

Mrchips

iTrader: (7)

Mobil 1 is dog shi&, had it in mine, and was awful. On start would smoke. Changed to my usual stuff, Motul 300v 15w50, and spot on again. Mobil 1 never again.

Good luck in finding issue hope it isn't to bad.

Parrg341

iTrader: (8)

Umm Video engine bay start it up and stop it soon. No longer than 5 seconds. We'll be able to tell you straight away.

Griblands

I hope this will help:

1. My experience is that I have previously run 2 of my own tuning businesses specialising in Turbocharged cars
2. Way back in the early 1990's when Mobil 1 was 'all the rage' our own experience was that it was just too thin. Especially for high revving, hot turbocharged engines. This was especially evident when the hydraulic tappet engines became common, as the first sign was 'tappety' engines on tickover when hot.
3. Do not run the engine any more - You will only cause more damage
4. Phone a garage you can trust and explain the problem to them. They will hopefully come and collect the car on a transporter.
5. The problem could be aggravated by the state of tune of your car. Is it standard?
6. I was originally skeptical about Oil Flushes, but now always use Forte Engine Flush with a hot engine.
7. Always prime the engine, switching off the ignition immediately if it fires until the oil light goes out. Then allow the engine to idle.

I hope this helps and that there is no major damage to the engine.

Nathan6301

just took a video will upload it in few mins

Bob Rawle

Yet the 5-30 oil is actually recommended by Subaru, I personally ran with Shell helix Ultra 5-30 for close to 70k miles at 1.9 bar, road, track and drag race without issue.

Given what has been said i suspect that the procedure used was maybe flawed, its been historically reported and posted on in this BBS at some length highest risk to bearings can be immediately after oil change it its not been done meticulously, there has also been great debate as to the validity of the process.

I assume that you filled the filter, waited 5 mins for the element to absorb all the oil, then filled again, then waited again and so on until it stayed full ? Or maybe you filled it the screwed it home straight away ? If the latter then thats probably the root cause of your unfortunate failure. It takes about 25 mins to top up repeatedly for the filter to stop absorbing oil.

cheers

bob

my94wrx

iTrader: (4)

I assume that you filled the filter, waited 5 mins for the element to absorb all the oil, then filled again, then waited again and so on until it stayed full ? Or maybe you filled it the screwed it home straight away ? If the latter then thats probably the root cause of your unfortunate failure. It takes about 25 mins to top up repeatedly for the filter to stop absorbing oil.

cheers

bob[/quote]


surely this shouldn't be a issue if the engine is dry cranked to obtain oil pressure prior to starting?

Nathan6301

Link to video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OP5BFUBLyM8

Nathan6301

I filled the filter in till the filter paper absorbed it all and repeated it

scooby-tc

iTrader: (2)

yep thats the bottom end gone that isnt going to be cheap

maydew

iTrader: (9)

i would not start that again,sorry to say not looking good for you,my advise is your looking at a rebuild like many that have suffered the same fate SPEND ONCE WITH A TRIED AND TESTED GARAGE else you will fall flat on your face mate.

api or engine turner are probably best to deal with.


how many miles and what mods are on it ?

Ozzy_B

iTrader: (2)

ouch, that sounds expensive im afraid

Griblands

surely this shouldn't be a issue if the engine is dry cranked to obtain oil pressure prior to starting?[/quote]

I agree that you should fill up the oil filter with oil (particularly when it's easy with a filter that stays horizontal) but in my opinion I think that waiting for the oil to be absorbed isn't necessary.

Nathan6301

funny thing is it had an engine rebuild by zen proformace in 2009 here and the docs

Scooby1975

iTrader: (2)

Wow, amazing to think that an oil change could do that to your engine..Wish you well mate.

Parrg341

iTrader: (8)

Yer thats gotta be the bottom end as stated above. Sorry to hear that noise brings back memeries, and many on here have heard it to.

Can be expensive but a good value for money package can be found. YHPM with a good company i use.

Ross

**jay**

iTrader: (1)

Dont like the bit about the "heavily worn big end bearing and the polished crank", i may be wrong but think the crank should have been replaced

maydew

iTrader: (9)

was the oil pump changed?

heavily worn big end bearing? pretty low miles too really surprised


am i right in seeing the rebuild has done 9k ...........

Nathan6301

Yeah 9k really pissed about it, I am very good with engines I could remove my engine my self, heads and acc just leave the short motor. Would this be cheaper ?

Would it be worth ringing zen performance really 9k is not good lol

TIZERBOY

iTrader: (1)

just been looking at your zen invoice, they used mobil 1 15/50 in your rebuild but in your oil change you used 5/30 this is to thin....

maydew

iTrader: (9)

yeah would defo ring them but can bet your life what the out come will be.

to keep cost down if you can just supply the block and let someone who rebuilds these engines daily do the work you require.

but before anything ring zen first thing be sure to post the out come mate

Nathan6301

Looks like I didn't do my homework. Can't believe I was so careless.

prodriverules

iTrader: (52)

Feel for you mate,suprising how sensitive ej engines are to oil changes and what oil they like to run on.
Have to agree with above though about going from a 15/50 to 5/30,not the best idea imho.
Good like with it though mate.

Nathan6301

Plans for tomorrow ring zen for info. I will remove engine and strip leaving the block just need to find someone to rebuild my block, how much am I looking at if I do it this way ?