Greddy Profec A vs Std 2-port boost solenoid
#1
Greddy Profec A vs Std 2-port boost solenoid
i have basically a std 99 UKturbo 2000. panel filter, newage IC/metal Y-pipe, and soon to be fitted RCM downpipe, straight thru centre pipe & STI back box
i also happen to have a Greddy Profec A boost controller that i was thinking of fitting. not to increase boost but to stabilise it more, it has so-called "fuzzy logic" that will learn the cars boost characterisitcs and make adjustments to optimise
anyone any good reasons/bad experiences as to why i shouldnt fit the boost controller?
i also happen to have a Greddy Profec A boost controller that i was thinking of fitting. not to increase boost but to stabilise it more, it has so-called "fuzzy logic" that will learn the cars boost characterisitcs and make adjustments to optimise
anyone any good reasons/bad experiences as to why i shouldnt fit the boost controller?
#4
I always thought the scramble boost was to allow a temporary increase in boost.
I have used a few, and always find the manual controls give better boost control. I also used to think it was easy to set these things up, but having watched a friend neartly kill his car, suggest at least get a friend round who has set theirs up, and make sure you have a good boost gauge.
Or as suggested above, take it to an expert to save popping the motor
I have used a few, and always find the manual controls give better boost control. I also used to think it was easy to set these things up, but having watched a friend neartly kill his car, suggest at least get a friend round who has set theirs up, and make sure you have a good boost gauge.
Or as suggested above, take it to an expert to save popping the motor
#6
I always thought the scramble boost was to allow a temporary increase in boost.
I have used a few, and always find the manual controls give better boost control. I also used to think it was easy to set these things up, but having watched a friend neartly kill his car, suggest at least get a friend round who has set theirs up, and make sure you have a good boost gauge.
Or as suggested above, take it to an expert to save popping the motor
I have used a few, and always find the manual controls give better boost control. I also used to think it was easy to set these things up, but having watched a friend neartly kill his car, suggest at least get a friend round who has set theirs up, and make sure you have a good boost gauge.
Or as suggested above, take it to an expert to save popping the motor
aye ive read a few horror stories, the idea was to fit and then just tootle it up to rolling road and let them set it up correctly!
but question is, is it worth fitting it?
Last edited by Gambit; 04 December 2010 at 05:21 PM.
#7
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IMHO it is worth fitting.
The stock ECU's boost control is not the best, and fitting a aftermarket controller can(and often will) result in boost being more steady and coming on earlier in the rev range,so even if you do not up the boost from the factory setting (0.9 bar) it still has it's benefits.
The stock ECU's boost control is not the best, and fitting a aftermarket controller can(and often will) result in boost being more steady and coming on earlier in the rev range,so even if you do not up the boost from the factory setting (0.9 bar) it still has it's benefits.
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#8
Ecu Specialist
It also disables the ecu's ability to drop boost if it sees that the engine is unhappy, example, poor fuel makes engine det, ecu retards ignition to the point where the boost cut should happen, boost controller maintains boost engine keeps detting as there is no more ignition to pull out ... bang.
just to add that thought.
There is nothing wrong with the stock system if its clean with the right size pipes in use. Most problems I see are due to the changing of the std boost control pipework for "pretty" aftermarket stuff thats too small in bore. then you get unstable boost control. Also make sure that a Subaru dealer hasn't drilled out the restrictor to stop over boost.
cheers
bob
just to add that thought.
There is nothing wrong with the stock system if its clean with the right size pipes in use. Most problems I see are due to the changing of the std boost control pipework for "pretty" aftermarket stuff thats too small in bore. then you get unstable boost control. Also make sure that a Subaru dealer hasn't drilled out the restrictor to stop over boost.
cheers
bob
#9
cheers for that, the car has all the factory pipework still in place, and pretty certain the restrictor pill is still there as i think i remember it when cleaning out boost solenoid & all the pipework over the summer
PSI3 is reading 0.9bar on WOT and its peak/spike has been 0.98bar - so it does appear to be making the correct boost
the fact that fitting the boost controller would disable the ECU's ability to drop boost has more or less made me not want to fit it as i dont have knock link or anything and N.ireland super unleaded is hit n miss.
one other issue, will fitting decat downpipe & straight through centre box cause any issues with overboost etc?
PSI3 is reading 0.9bar on WOT and its peak/spike has been 0.98bar - so it does appear to be making the correct boost
the fact that fitting the boost controller would disable the ECU's ability to drop boost has more or less made me not want to fit it as i dont have knock link or anything and N.ireland super unleaded is hit n miss.
one other issue, will fitting decat downpipe & straight through centre box cause any issues with overboost etc?
#11
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Full decats can cause overboosting, always best with a remap tbh, and you can add a 3 port boost solenoid too then not too expensive a mod (well the remap will set you back a bit but the boost solenoid is about 65-60 quid new).
Tony
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