Rich D

iTrader: (12)

My 99 UK Classic cut out on me a couple of days ago and hasn't started since

Tried several things and I traced it to what I thought it was the coil pack, as I could not get a spark from the back 2 terminals, only from the front 2 terminals, so assumed the coil pack was goosed.

So I got hold of another one today, but that does exactly the same thing?

Any suggestions?

kevin wrx

iTrader: (1)

u done fault code check to see if it throws up any,checked all the wires and connections to coil packs,check wires to crank and camshaft sensors.

guinnessman2001

If the coil pack has made no difference then the problem could be fuel delivery.
I believe there was a problem with the standard MY99 amd MY00 alarms resulting in the supply to the fuel pump relay being randomly disconnected.

I had the same problem with mine and fixed it by bypassing the alarm and just taking an ignition live feed direct to the fuel pump.

Obviously this removes one of the CAT 1 protection immobilisers, so the repair was only temporary until I got round to replacing the alarm.

There will be no fault codes stored either with this fault.

Definately worth checking as I believe it is a common problem.

badboyz666

+1 i had the same fault on my my00 classic just run a live feed to the fuel pump and if it starts its your immobliser cutting the fuel pump!! crappy sigma alarms!!!

Rich D

iTrader: (12)

no fault codes stored in the ECU, I checked at the time, I've also changed from the Prodrive ECU back to the standard one, no difference

wiring all appears ok, had the sensors out & cleaned them

Rich D

iTrader: (12)

it's definately not a fuelling problem, as I can hear the pump priming & running, I've also had the fuel line under the bonnet disconnected and into a 2 litre pop bottle, loads coming through when cranking

now whether or not it's getting into the engine is another matter

Rich D

iTrader: (12)

is there an ignition amplifier on the V5 cars?

I know some Impreza's have them, but if mine has, I can't see it?

just looking for reasons why it's not sparking on 2 terminals of the coil pack, if it does it on both coil packs

Splitpin

There isn't a separate igniter on the MY99-00 cars, it's built into the coilpack. The ignition amp signal runs direct from the ECU through the loom to the coilpack. It's wasted spark so there are only two signal lines. The four conductors travelling into the coil are therefore ground (pin 1) +12v (pin 2), and the two ignition signals to 3 and 4.

If you are not getting spark on the 3/4 branch of the pack, and are sure that at least one of the two coilpacks you've tried is 100%, the likely explanations are either a wiring fault (more likely) or a damaged ECU (less likely). If you have tried two separate ECUs, the likely blame points even further in the direction of a wiring break stopping the ignition signal travelling from the ECU to the coilpack.

The obvious thing to do under these circumstances would be to check electrical continuity between pin 16 of the grey plug on the ECU loom (B134) and pin 4 of the coilpack connector. This is the 3/4 ignition signal line.

Incidentally, if it is firing on two cylinders, that should be enough for it to at least try to fire when you attempt to start it. Does it do so, or not?

Also, if you're unsure whether fuel is reaching the cylinders, pull the plugs out and see which, if not all, are wet.

Rich D

iTrader: (12)

Splitpin, thanks for the reply, great information as usual

I've not been on here for weeks though, so only just read this, however I don't think it's an electrical problem, see below...

Rich D

iTrader: (12)

Right, I've not touched the car for weeks due to work, snow, xmas, etc... but it's time I got my @rse in gear & got it running again, there is only so long you can put up with a 1.4 Polo

Just charged the battery and done a quick video >>> http://s250.photobucket.com/albums/g...=VIDEO0010.mp4

Sounds to be turning over too quickly, however the timing belt has not snapped, that was one of the first things the AA guy checked, as I was assuming the worst at the time!

But, I've just whipped the covers off and lined the pullies up to have a look >>>











Everything appears to be lined up correctly apart from the upper drivers side pulley, as per the last photo, agreed?

So it looks like the belt has jumped slightly, which explains the engine turning over faster than normal.

Would this have damaged anything do we think? Can I simply re-time the engine, replace the belt and it will be ok?

Rescue Dude

iTrader: (11)

If its jumped a tooth you may have valve damage.

Try a compression test.

Fingers crossed for ya.

Rich D

iTrader: (12)

looks like it's 2 teeth out from the last photo, how much clearance is there on these engines?