scoob cutting out
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scoob cutting out
Evening...
Had a problem with the car for a while now where, once it had got up to running temp, as I was accelerating hard(ish) as i got to 3000 revs or so, it would cut out (kind of like a fuel cut off) which made me think it was overboosting. it would rev past that if i accelerated gradually so i did the code read and got 23 maf circuit. Got a new maf off ebay (or a patterened one as the purpple ones are very rare). Now, the car still cuts out, but its a different one now, as it will rev past 3000, but its almost like a blockage or fueling issue. So far ive put new pluge, new maf, oil change, air and oil filter and fuel filters, cleaned boost solenoid, map sensor, and changed the silicon hoses around that area, struggling as to what else to look at. code read now doesnt give anything, so i'm confused. I can drive the car fine with no problems if i drive sensibly so im getting miffed with it now
cheers
Ray
Had a problem with the car for a while now where, once it had got up to running temp, as I was accelerating hard(ish) as i got to 3000 revs or so, it would cut out (kind of like a fuel cut off) which made me think it was overboosting. it would rev past that if i accelerated gradually so i did the code read and got 23 maf circuit. Got a new maf off ebay (or a patterened one as the purpple ones are very rare). Now, the car still cuts out, but its a different one now, as it will rev past 3000, but its almost like a blockage or fueling issue. So far ive put new pluge, new maf, oil change, air and oil filter and fuel filters, cleaned boost solenoid, map sensor, and changed the silicon hoses around that area, struggling as to what else to look at. code read now doesnt give anything, so i'm confused. I can drive the car fine with no problems if i drive sensibly so im getting miffed with it now
cheers
Ray
#2
I've been having a similar problem with mine, will rev past 3500 but as it does so it will cough slightly and then carry on boosting, have you tried changing the coil perhaps, was told this was the problem on mine, coil and plugs like?
#4
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Missing and faultering under load, immediately points to plugs and/or coil pack(s) breaking down. Purple maf? then i think you have the coil pack on top of your manifold, remove leads and check for any arcing/burning on the contact at both ends, check the leads for damage or wear. Spark plugs should be NGK PFBR6, gapped to 0.65 or 0.7 mm, or for a modded engine running more boost, NGK PFBR7 gapped to 0.6 or 0.65mm
Edit: When you did the oil change, you did only fill to the 'o' on the dip stick and not to the '<' didn't you?? Over filling can cause simular symptoms due to contamination of the BCS and vac lines.
Edit: When you did the oil change, you did only fill to the 'o' on the dip stick and not to the '<' didn't you?? Over filling can cause simular symptoms due to contamination of the BCS and vac lines.
Last edited by Glowplug; 13 September 2010 at 01:55 PM.
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Missing and faultering under load, immediately points to plugs and/or coil pack(s) breaking down. Purple maf? then i think you have the coil pack on top of your manifold, remove leads and check for any arcing/burning on the contact at both ends, check the leads for damage or wear. Spark plugs should be NGK PFBR6, gapped to 0.65 or 0.7 mm, or for a modded engine running more boost, NGK PFBR7 gapped to 0.6 or 0.65mm
Edit: When you did the oil change, you did only fill to the 'o' on the dip stick and not to the '<' didn't you?? Over filling can cause simular symptoms due to contamination of the BCS and vac lines.
Edit: When you did the oil change, you did only fill to the 'o' on the dip stick and not to the '<' didn't you?? Over filling can cause simular symptoms due to contamination of the BCS and vac lines.
Plugs were changed and are indeed PFBR6 ones. I will have a look at the coils (yes, on top of manifold). again, with the oil change i didnt overfill it. I might get some new leads and coil pack and go from there.
cheers chaps
Ray
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Not being an expert in any of these electrical sensors but I would have thought that if you unplugged the O2 sensor and it made no difference then it's not doing anything and suggests it is broken!!
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Just noticed this reply....when I unplugged the sensor, as said it made no difference to the car, other than the fact no Cel came on, where I expected it to do? Hmmm. I've got a new maf coming, a new boost solenoid coming, so looks like an o2 sensor is needed as well .....this is the one in the top of the exhaust on the drivers side?
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what year is the car?
I would be worried using a pattern maf.. you may have just masked the issue by fitting and nonstandard part as the maf on certain years are a big issue
Simon
I would be worried using a pattern maf.. you may have just masked the issue by fitting and nonstandard part as the maf on certain years are a big issue
Simon
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Still having problems, although I have a new car so havent been looking at it, but have checked and gapped all plugs which were fine, however as a last resort, i unplugged each lead from the coil pack and started the car, and had a good look at the spark...imagine my surprise to find the last pack lead i unplugged as having a very intermittent spark indeed...so hats off to b13bat for his suggestion.....new pack coming
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