stiggy wiggy

iTrader: (1)

I've done a lot of searching on this and the general opinion was a little spring was missing underneath the car, spring was there but I replaced it for a new one but it's still very slack????

Say you was to hold it to the left and let go it will spring back to centre as you'd expect but hold it to the right and let go and it will barely move?

Also, when in a gear there is excessive side to side movement about 1"-1.5"

any ideas on what could be causing this?

Thanks

stiggy wiggy

iTrader: (1)

Bump

-Joe-

iTrader: (1)

mine does this also would like to know what the cause is also dont affect driving its just annoying

stiggy wiggy

iTrader: (1)

Bump

stiggy wiggy

iTrader: (1)

Anyone?

thoughto

iTrader: (1)

Bump again! Just changed the spring on mine to no avail. Would really like to know what can be loose so I can attack it. Had car up to change spring, but couldn't find anything else loose. [STI Version 4]

prodriverules

iTrader: (52)

have you pulled up the cover inside and done the 12mm bolt/nut that holds the linkage onto the gearstick as the bushes wear?

seddomyster

iTrader: (9)

i replaced mine with a short shifter. less play but i think it just normal on classics to a point

thoughto

iTrader: (1)

I pulled up the cover inside and removed the ****. The bushing under the cover seemed OK, the slop was visually not due to that being loose. I seem to remember the shift being a lot more precise in the recent past, but I don't know what has changed / failed.

prodriverules

iTrader: (52)

sounds like something has gone a righ inside the gearbox then mate unfortunatly

paul ull sti

have you checked where the linkage joins the gearbox my last wrx was the same just a thought

stiggy wiggy

iTrader: (1)

Mines driving me nuts!!!!!!
4th to 3rd / 5th changes are pot luck trying to get the gear I want, lol

my wifes evo 4 is the complete opposite, best shifting box I've used (cow!!!!)

TonyBurns

iTrader: (3)

Yes but her crank wobbles like a good un

I would personally say your gear linkage is worn, usually by people who retain their hand on your (gear) **** and this causes issues

Tony

John 37

Get under the car and check the coupling where the gear linkage enters the gearbox. On my MY2000 classic, there's a coupling with 2 roll pins at 90 degrees to each other. These can wear and give the symptoms you describe. Mine's worn a little on the side to side direction. It's a job I keep meaning to do.

John

thoughto

iTrader: (1)

Thanks all, espec John 37. That sounds fairly likely to be the answer. I will have another look.

thoughto

iTrader: (1)

Had another look, and it's what John 37 said. It is hard to explain without pics, so I took some. I will try to put them up. It is the side to side one, as you said was the case for you. The up and down one appears to have a bolt on it, but I'm not sure about the side to side one. There is quite a lot of movement. I got my Dad (who is light) to sit in the car and change gear a few times, then just wiggle the gear lever left and right while in gear. The wiggling was clearly replicated on the side to side pin. How would I tighten it up, or would I have to replace it? Very grateful for advice so I can do it myself. I'm sure Bell and Colvill can get the parts, just not sure what I need and how to do it. I'll try to put up the pics later today.

John 37

They should both be roll pins. They are available from dealers and should be replaced whenever the greabox is removed though I can't see why. Someone has obviously already had a problem with your car.
The roll pins themselves are a bit different to normal ones but work in the same way. The pins are easy to replace as is the coupling if it's worn. If the holes in the gearbox shaft or the gearchange shaft are worn, that's a bigger job. In theory, it's possible to drill them out and fit larger pins. That's not possible with the gearbox in place though.

Good luck

John

thoughto

iTrader: (1)

Above is a shot of the side to side roll pin. The impression I got is that the metal tube inside is shorter than the gap between the 2 sides. That is where there is slop. Another photo

I'm assuming this roll pin is correct.
The up and down part seems to work properly, there is no slop, but it has perhaps been fixed incorrectly as it is secured by a nut



So I'm hoping I can buy replacement roll pins and put them in myself, but I don't know how to do so. If you can tell me how to do this, and maybe the part numbers, that will be fantastic. If it looks like that won't work in my case please let me know. I hope the pics help someone else. Cheers, Tom

stiggy wiggy

iTrader: (1)

Any luck with yours thoughto?

thoughto

iTrader: (1)

Replacement parts from Bell & Colvill arrive this morning. Will have a go. Might be able to put up a couple more pics if things go OK and it solves the problem.

stiggy wiggy

iTrader: (1)

Nice one, fingers crossed

myblackwrx

iTrader: (1)

Had mine done today on my Type R and the problem was caused by 2 bushes on the horizontol roll pin not being there,so giving side to side movement.
It looks like the roll pin cannot be removed without cutting an end off but if you do then you can replace the bushes and just have to resecure the end.

paul ull sti

hope you get it sorted mate

thoughto

iTrader: (1)

myblackwrx, thanks a lot for posting. I am sure mine has this same problem. How did they fix it? We ordered the wrong parts, but no big deal I can return them, the Subaru computer catalogue is pretty confusing. It seemed though that ordering the whole "knuckle" was something like £80 which seems a lot and might not be in stock.
I can see there are no bushes on mine. I almost got the whole knuckle off the car. I undid the bolt holding the vertical roll pin, but was too scared to try to knock out the pin that holds the other end of the knuckle right next to the gearbox. I thought it might just "knock out" with a hammer, but then again it might not, and I was having a lot of trouble getting a hammer and a pointy thing (to fit inside the pin) lined up on it under the car. I looked at the replacement pin from Subaru, and it's rather sophisticated, and looked like it might want a proper removal tool.
I am not sure how to get the offending roll pin out without cutting at least one end off the knuckle. If I could, I guess I don't know how to get the new one in (with bushes on it).
If you can post any details of part numbers and how the job was done that would help me and perhaps some others with this problem. I'll add a couple of pics of what I'm rambling about.

The knuckle with one end free, just held in by one pin

The replacement for the pin in question

thoughto

iTrader: (1)

Just found this thread from NASIOC, looks very helpful
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...hlight=knuckle
Also these 2
http://www.ludicrous-speed.com/wiki/...le_Shifter_Fix
http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t587...obble-fix.html

Ringoinmad

Hello all, it was me that repaired blackwrx's gear linkage! To remove the roll pin you use two punches a small one to remove the inner pin then a larger one to knock out the outer part of the pin. I fitted a 2nd hand knuckle to blackwrx's gearbox and reused the old roll pin, to refit the roll pin i first knocked the outer bit into the linkage then followed by the inner part.
I have reconditioned the old knuckle by grinding away the small end of the pin holding the worn bushes (or missing bushes) then replacing the bushes with a spare set of bushes from the vertical part of linkage and then welded the top of the pin that had been grinded back in place.

myblackwrx

iTrader: (1)

I will say that after it was sorted the gearchange so precise

stiggy wiggy

iTrader: (1)

Just tried doing this and I'm having major troubles getting the larger roll pin out

managed to get it flush with the part you have to knock it thru but I can't for life of me get it any further thru

now I'm thoroughly pi$$ed off, freezing cold and have several bleeding knuckles aaaaarrrrrgggghh!!!!

thoughto

iTrader: (1)

stiggy wiggy, you can't knock out the horizontal roll pin without cutting the end off it. Its sealed in basically. I'll put in a couple of pics of the piece I ended up buying.


So I hope you haven't been suffering trying to do that.
I bought the whole joint, 35047AC030, from the US. Price was $42.74, plus shipping plus tax plus handling etc came to about £50. Took a couple of weeks to come.
I went on a course for 7 weeks and still haven't fitted it, but shouldn't be too bad.
Hope you can at least still use your car. Good luck, Tom

stiggy wiggy

iTrader: (1)

Oooooh shiny!
Cars been off the road for about 5 weeks now while I've been refurbing my rims and calipers so I'm itching to drive it now,
thought I'd attack this little job whilst it was up on axle stands,

I got a 2nd hand knuckle from ringoinmad with a new bush already installed and welded up so just gotta get the old knuckle off then grind the part off that ur talking about and use that bush in the other bit of the newer knuckle as my original knuckle didn't even have this bush!! So it's blatently this that was causing all the sloppiness.

The pin I'm having trouble removing is the small hole on the far right in ur new pics, connects to the shaft that goes into the gearbox, it's soooo awkward trying to bang it out whilst Laying under the car with less than a foot of room to swing a hammer,

Went out yesterday and invested in a proper punch set so hopefully will muller it out later tonight ( I was using a straight section of a skinny paint roller handle that I chopped up, lol)

would probably be very easy if on a proper ramp at work but I knew something would break or go **** up and then my car would be stranded at work,

This time I'm gonna be prepared and wear all the clothes I own as I froze my nuts off on fri night!!!!