wrapping a downpipe!
15 July 2010, 10:58 PM
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I mite be corrected but a fellow called steve simpson told me that you only need to wrap your down pipe if anti-lag is installed. If you still want to wrap then a five metre roll costing about 10 to 15 quid will be more than enough.
Last edited by dave12345; 15 July 2010 at 10:59 PM.
15 July 2010, 11:11 PM
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hey i dont know f**k all about it, just quoting what the man told me.I wrapped my headers on my old sti an when i took it to scooby technics they said it was pointless. Steve simpson at teg sport in carnforth said the same. Can only pass on advise i have been told myself.
16 July 2010, 03:27 PM
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Higher underhood temperatures,maybe, when using ALS
But wrapping the downpipe has some advantages.
With a TMIC you get less heatsoak because less heat is radiating from the downpipe, and general lower temperatures underhood, which means less chance of plastics melting etc.Also if using a cone filter without a dedicated feed/shielding chances are the turbo/downpipe are warming up the air the filter takes in.
I had an alarm fitted, with the siren above/near the turbo/downpipe, and that got so hot it started to melt.
Al the reduced temperatures in itself (wrapping downpipe, manifold,turbo blanket, wrapping the fmic feed pipe etc)make a little change, but do them all you can get quite a reduction in underhood air temperatures, which can only be a good thing performance and longevity wise.
But wrapping the downpipe has some advantages.
With a TMIC you get less heatsoak because less heat is radiating from the downpipe, and general lower temperatures underhood, which means less chance of plastics melting etc.Also if using a cone filter without a dedicated feed/shielding chances are the turbo/downpipe are warming up the air the filter takes in.
I had an alarm fitted, with the siren above/near the turbo/downpipe, and that got so hot it started to melt.
Al the reduced temperatures in itself (wrapping downpipe, manifold,turbo blanket, wrapping the fmic feed pipe etc)make a little change, but do them all you can get quite a reduction in underhood air temperatures, which can only be a good thing performance and longevity wise.
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18 July 2010, 03:12 PM
#8
Wrapping a downpipe is most certainly worthwhile and it is also worth wrapping headers and uppipe.
The amount of wrap used will depend on the diameter of the downpipe but for a 3" open neck downpipe you will use approximately three quarters of a 50 foot x 2" roll if applied properly and with the right overlap.
Avoid cheapo wrap as it will not have good thermal properties and will fall off quite quickly.
Here is something copied from elsewhere:
[i]I have used all the heat wraps I have come across over many years but so far I am settled on DEI wrap because the thermal properties are as good as anything else I have found and better than most. It is close weave so there are no holes when streached. It has a stitch down each side to act as a guide to overlap so it is easy to use and because there is less excessive wrapping, economical.
Here are the instructions I have made up for this wrap which I sell at £55 per 50' X 2" roll.
[quote]Heat wrapping is not difficult if you follow these instructions but you cannot expect to achieve a professional standard on your first heat wrap operation unless you follow these instructions exactly.
Because of the cost of heat wrap ties I only use stainless steel tie wire and generally the more ties the better the job.
To use tie wire it is best to have a set of tie wire pliers/ lock wire pliers which makes twisting the tie wire that much easier.
The DEI heat wrap has a stitching down each side to show the amount of overlap required and you should follow the overlap guide stitching where possible. This is not possible on the inside of tight bends.
The wrap should be applied damp but not wet. There are chemicals in the wrap to help it bind and these should not be diluted out. You can use a house plant leaf sprayer or any other water aerosol/spray to dampen the wrap or set the tap to a very fine trickle and run the wrap through the trickle quite quickly. In a few minutes the water will have spread evenly throughout the fabric to dampen it. Do not let the impregnated chemicals run out.
Wrap from the bottom to the top with the appropriate overlay.
Keep the wrap as tight as possible.
Remember that the wrap on the outside of a bend requires more material and therefore the corresponding inside of the bend will have big overlaps and on a tight bend this can be almost 100%.
Do not cut the wrap in to short lengths but try to apply in continuous lengths and certainly 15 feet at a time.
The rolls come in 50 foot by 2" .
A 3" open neck downpipe wll generally take three quarters of a roll of wrap done properly.
Remember. Keep it tight.
Tie at the end and then every 3 or 4 inches but on curves or corners you can increase the number of ties.
The tie must be applied while the wrap is still damp.
Cut off any strands and loose ends.
When put on the car first there will be a lot of moisture released from the wrap. Do not be alarmed.
On damp and humid days the wrap will absorb moisture so again there will be a lot of steam.
It is quite normal for the wrap to smell for three weeks after applying as it dries through thoroughly.
Happy wrapping.
If you need further assistance please do not hesitate to contact me.
Regards,
Harvey Smith.
We have just removed a set of headers and uppipe from a car that we wrapped over three years ago. The wrap is in very good condition. Two small areas need touched up where there has been some physical damage from road debris, a lump of wood or a bolder perhaps. So wrapped properly it can last for years.
The amount of wrap used will depend on the diameter of the downpipe but for a 3" open neck downpipe you will use approximately three quarters of a 50 foot x 2" roll if applied properly and with the right overlap.
Avoid cheapo wrap as it will not have good thermal properties and will fall off quite quickly.
Here is something copied from elsewhere:
[i]I have used all the heat wraps I have come across over many years but so far I am settled on DEI wrap because the thermal properties are as good as anything else I have found and better than most. It is close weave so there are no holes when streached. It has a stitch down each side to act as a guide to overlap so it is easy to use and because there is less excessive wrapping, economical.
Here are the instructions I have made up for this wrap which I sell at £55 per 50' X 2" roll.
[quote]Heat wrapping is not difficult if you follow these instructions but you cannot expect to achieve a professional standard on your first heat wrap operation unless you follow these instructions exactly.
Because of the cost of heat wrap ties I only use stainless steel tie wire and generally the more ties the better the job.
To use tie wire it is best to have a set of tie wire pliers/ lock wire pliers which makes twisting the tie wire that much easier.
The DEI heat wrap has a stitching down each side to show the amount of overlap required and you should follow the overlap guide stitching where possible. This is not possible on the inside of tight bends.
The wrap should be applied damp but not wet. There are chemicals in the wrap to help it bind and these should not be diluted out. You can use a house plant leaf sprayer or any other water aerosol/spray to dampen the wrap or set the tap to a very fine trickle and run the wrap through the trickle quite quickly. In a few minutes the water will have spread evenly throughout the fabric to dampen it. Do not let the impregnated chemicals run out.
Wrap from the bottom to the top with the appropriate overlay.
Keep the wrap as tight as possible.
Remember that the wrap on the outside of a bend requires more material and therefore the corresponding inside of the bend will have big overlaps and on a tight bend this can be almost 100%.
Do not cut the wrap in to short lengths but try to apply in continuous lengths and certainly 15 feet at a time.
The rolls come in 50 foot by 2" .
A 3" open neck downpipe wll generally take three quarters of a roll of wrap done properly.
Remember. Keep it tight.
Tie at the end and then every 3 or 4 inches but on curves or corners you can increase the number of ties.
The tie must be applied while the wrap is still damp.
Cut off any strands and loose ends.
When put on the car first there will be a lot of moisture released from the wrap. Do not be alarmed.
On damp and humid days the wrap will absorb moisture so again there will be a lot of steam.
It is quite normal for the wrap to smell for three weeks after applying as it dries through thoroughly.
Happy wrapping.
If you need further assistance please do not hesitate to contact me.
Regards,
Harvey Smith.
We have just removed a set of headers and uppipe from a car that we wrapped over three years ago. The wrap is in very good condition. Two small areas need touched up where there has been some physical damage from road debris, a lump of wood or a bolder perhaps. So wrapped properly it can last for years.
18 July 2010, 03:12 PM
#9
Wrapping a downpipe is most certainly worthwhile and it is also worth wrapping headers and uppipe.
The amount of wrap used will depend on the diameter of the downpipe but for a 3" open neck downpipe you will use approximately three quarters of a 50 foot x 2" roll if applied properly and with the right overlap.
Avoid cheapo wrap as it will not have good thermal properties and will fall off quite quickly.
Here is something copied from elsewhere:
I have used all the heat wraps I have come across over many years but so far I am settled on DEI wrap because the thermal properties are as good as anything else I have found and better than most. It is close weave so there are no holes when streached. It has a stitch down each side to act as a guide to overlap so it is easy to use and because there is less excessive wrapping, economical.
Here are the instructions I have made up for this wrap which I sell at £55 per 50' X 2" roll.
The amount of wrap used will depend on the diameter of the downpipe but for a 3" open neck downpipe you will use approximately three quarters of a 50 foot x 2" roll if applied properly and with the right overlap.
Avoid cheapo wrap as it will not have good thermal properties and will fall off quite quickly.
Here is something copied from elsewhere:
I have used all the heat wraps I have come across over many years but so far I am settled on DEI wrap because the thermal properties are as good as anything else I have found and better than most. It is close weave so there are no holes when streached. It has a stitch down each side to act as a guide to overlap so it is easy to use and because there is less excessive wrapping, economical.
Here are the instructions I have made up for this wrap which I sell at £55 per 50' X 2" roll.
Heat wrapping is not difficult if you follow these instructions but you cannot expect to achieve a professional standard on your first heat wrap operation unless you follow these instructions exactly.
Because of the cost of heat wrap ties I only use stainless steel tie wire and generally the more ties the better the job.
To use tie wire it is best to have a set of tie wire pliers/ lock wire pliers which makes twisting the tie wire that much easier.
The DEI heat wrap has a stitching down each side to show the amount of overlap required and you should follow the overlap guide stitching where possible. This is not possible on the inside of tight bends.
The wrap should be applied damp but not wet. There are chemicals in the wrap to help it bind and these should not be diluted out. You can use a house plant leaf sprayer or any other water aerosol/spray to dampen the wrap or set the tap to a very fine trickle and run the wrap through the trickle quite quickly. In a few minutes the water will have spread evenly throughout the fabric to dampen it. Do not let the impregnated chemicals run out.
Wrap from the bottom to the top with the appropriate overlay.
Keep the wrap as tight as possible.
Remember that the wrap on the outside of a bend requires more material and therefore the corresponding inside of the bend will have big overlaps and on a tight bend this can be almost 100%.
Do not cut the wrap in to short lengths but try to apply in continuous lengths and certainly 15 feet at a time.
The rolls come in 50 foot by 2" .
A 3" open neck downpipe wll generally take three quarters of a roll of wrap done properly.
Remember. Keep it tight.
Tie at the end and then every 3 or 4 inches but on curves or corners you can increase the number of ties.
The tie must be applied while the wrap is still damp.
Cut off any strands and loose ends.
When put on the car first there will be a lot of moisture released from the wrap. Do not be alarmed.
On damp and humid days the wrap will absorb moisture so again there will be a lot of steam.
It is quite normal for the wrap to smell for three weeks after applying as it dries through thoroughly.
Happy wrapping.
If you need further assistance please do not hesitate to contact me.
Regards,
Harvey Smith.
We have just removed a set of headers and uppipe from a car that we wrapped over three years ago. The wrap is in very good condition. Two small areas need touched up where there has been some physical damage from road debris, a lump of wood or a bolder perhaps. So wrapped properly it can last for years.
Because of the cost of heat wrap ties I only use stainless steel tie wire and generally the more ties the better the job.
To use tie wire it is best to have a set of tie wire pliers/ lock wire pliers which makes twisting the tie wire that much easier.
The DEI heat wrap has a stitching down each side to show the amount of overlap required and you should follow the overlap guide stitching where possible. This is not possible on the inside of tight bends.
The wrap should be applied damp but not wet. There are chemicals in the wrap to help it bind and these should not be diluted out. You can use a house plant leaf sprayer or any other water aerosol/spray to dampen the wrap or set the tap to a very fine trickle and run the wrap through the trickle quite quickly. In a few minutes the water will have spread evenly throughout the fabric to dampen it. Do not let the impregnated chemicals run out.
Wrap from the bottom to the top with the appropriate overlay.
Keep the wrap as tight as possible.
Remember that the wrap on the outside of a bend requires more material and therefore the corresponding inside of the bend will have big overlaps and on a tight bend this can be almost 100%.
Do not cut the wrap in to short lengths but try to apply in continuous lengths and certainly 15 feet at a time.
The rolls come in 50 foot by 2" .
A 3" open neck downpipe wll generally take three quarters of a roll of wrap done properly.
Remember. Keep it tight.
Tie at the end and then every 3 or 4 inches but on curves or corners you can increase the number of ties.
The tie must be applied while the wrap is still damp.
Cut off any strands and loose ends.
When put on the car first there will be a lot of moisture released from the wrap. Do not be alarmed.
On damp and humid days the wrap will absorb moisture so again there will be a lot of steam.
It is quite normal for the wrap to smell for three weeks after applying as it dries through thoroughly.
Happy wrapping.
If you need further assistance please do not hesitate to contact me.
Regards,
Harvey Smith.
We have just removed a set of headers and uppipe from a car that we wrapped over three years ago. The wrap is in very good condition. Two small areas need touched up where there has been some physical damage from road debris, a lump of wood or a bolder perhaps. So wrapped properly it can last for years.
Last edited by harvey; 18 July 2010 at 03:14 PM.
18 July 2010, 03:23 PM
#10
I've done my own front-mount intercooler hard pipe from i/c to throttle body, using those instructions. I had no proper wire pliers and at £30 a set, couldn't see the point in buying any, so I used a SMALL set of Mole Grips to grip the wire ends before twisting.
Wrapping wasn't difficult, so long as you get a tie in place at the start to stop it pulling through and coming loose. Keeping it tight is then easy and it's a bit like putting tape on racing bike handlebars
I even managed to go neatly round an inset tempertaure gauge for air charge temperatures. I was very pleased with the result. I'm not sure if others would approve, but I DID smear the cut ends of the wrap with a little Araldite to stop them unravelling.
The only problem I had was driving a 1cm length of tie-wire right under my right forefinger nail. Hurts like hell
Wrapping wasn't difficult, so long as you get a tie in place at the start to stop it pulling through and coming loose. Keeping it tight is then easy and it's a bit like putting tape on racing bike handlebars
I even managed to go neatly round an inset tempertaure gauge for air charge temperatures. I was very pleased with the result. I'm not sure if others would approve, but I DID smear the cut ends of the wrap with a little Araldite to stop them unravelling.The only problem I had was driving a 1cm length of tie-wire right under my right forefinger nail. Hurts like hell
Last edited by alcazar; 18 July 2010 at 07:00 PM.
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