Check engine light
14 July 2010, 07:30 AM
#1
Check engine light
Hey Guys
Here goes..... On saturday i got rid of my cone filter and replaced it with a standard airbox. (no problems with fitting etc) Whilst this was out the maf sensor was cleaned. Did the maf check by disconnecting sensor, the car stalled. (not a perfect test but a good indication).
This morning however whilst on the way to work. the car started to cough and splutter slighty, then the check engine light came on. The car was hold back but not great amounts. The fuel is low but no petrol light.
Any help would be great to fault find. I will put into test mode this afternoon and check the faults. Just wondering if there is anything i should be looking for.
MY00 Classic wagon
Steve
Here goes..... On saturday i got rid of my cone filter and replaced it with a standard airbox. (no problems with fitting etc) Whilst this was out the maf sensor was cleaned. Did the maf check by disconnecting sensor, the car stalled. (not a perfect test but a good indication).
This morning however whilst on the way to work. the car started to cough and splutter slighty, then the check engine light came on. The car was hold back but not great amounts. The fuel is low but no petrol light.
Any help would be great to fault find. I will put into test mode this afternoon and check the faults. Just wondering if there is anything i should be looking for.
MY00 Classic wagon
Steve
14 July 2010, 11:22 AM
#2
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Hi mate
If you need help reading the code I have the means to do it if you have an OBDII port. Nothing as fancy as Romraider but it should nonetheless read the code. Might point you in the right direction.
I’m not too far from you – if your car is still drivable I could meet you sometime at the services where the A689 meets the A19. Think there is a KFC and the like there.
Chris
If you need help reading the code I have the means to do it if you have an OBDII port. Nothing as fancy as Romraider but it should nonetheless read the code. Might point you in the right direction.
I’m not too far from you – if your car is still drivable I could meet you sometime at the services where the A689 meets the A19. Think there is a KFC and the like there.
Chris
14 July 2010, 01:16 PM
#3
Hi mate
If you need help reading the code I have the means to do it if you have an OBDII port. Nothing as fancy as Romraider but it should nonetheless read the code. Might point you in the right direction.
I’m not too far from you – if your car is still drivable I could meet you sometime at the services where the A689 meets the A19. Think there is a KFC and the like there.
Chris
If you need help reading the code I have the means to do it if you have an OBDII port. Nothing as fancy as Romraider but it should nonetheless read the code. Might point you in the right direction.
I’m not too far from you – if your car is still drivable I could meet you sometime at the services where the A689 meets the A19. Think there is a KFC and the like there.
Chris
Thanks for the offer mate I have a cable and stuff. Just hoping it points me in the right direction. Just drove it now and there is no light on.
Once again it's great to know that people like your self are available for help. I will post codes when j get them and see if we can sort it.
Steve
14 July 2010, 03:41 PM
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Whilst this was out the maf sensor was cleaned.
Did the maf check by disconnecting sensor, the car stalled. (not a perfect test but a good indication).
This "test" is complete bullsh*t and gives you no indication whatsoever about any of the hardware in your car, let alone the "health" of the airflow meter.
This morning however whilst on the way to work. the car started to cough and splutter slighty, then the check engine light came on. The car was hold back but not great amounts.
Any help would be great to fault find. I will put into test mode this afternoon and check the faults. Just wondering if there is anything i should be looking for.
Any help would be great to fault find. I will put into test mode this afternoon and check the faults. Just wondering if there is anything i should be looking for.
If you've had the knock sensor (22) error, keep a close eye on your Check Engine Light as if it's come one once, chances are it'll come on again. Also if your car was coughing and spluttering as the error came on, I would not, at this point, assume that everything is fine just because it's gone away.
Steve, can you tell us more about the context of this thread so we can possibly help you diagnose a bit better? Under certain circumstances, for example, a failing airflow meter can trigger the code 22 error, so if we know you're suspicious about your MAF, while, under normal circumstances, an (intermittent) failure in the knock sensor or its circuit will not make the car "cough and splutter" (as it is purely a monitoring device).
Seeing as your car did cough and splutter when the check engine light came on, suspicion would suggest that the code 22 was actually an indirect result of a misreading airflow meter, or else there's a short circuit somewhere in your wiring loom in which the knock sensor circuit is involved.
Given you've had an induction kit on, the obvious path of suspicion would be the MAF. Does the sensor in your car at the moment have a stripe of green paint on its mounting flange?
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14 July 2010, 04:09 PM
#8
If the ECU wasn't mapped for the cone filter, that's a very good move.
Why? Did it appear dirty/grimy, was your car suffering from some sort of problem that led you to believe the sensor was contaminated, or did you just do this electively?
No, it isn't a "good indication" at all, where did you get that idea? It'd be great if it worked but unfortunately the only thing it's a good indication of is your propensity to believe stuff you read on the internet without thinking about it.
This "test" is complete bullsh*t and gives you no indication whatsoever about any of the hardware in your car, let alone the "health" of the airflow meter.
Just FYI, the mode in which you read off the diagnostic codes from the check engine light (i.e. connecting the black plugs) is called Read Memory Mode, not test mode. Test mode's the one where you connect the green plugs and it cycles all the components under the bonnet.
If you've had the knock sensor (22) error, keep a close eye on your Check Engine Light as if it's come one once, chances are it'll come on again. Also if your car was coughing and spluttering as the error came on, I would not, at this point, assume that everything is fine just because it's gone away.
If the light's gone off, that means the error condition that caused it to come on in the first place is no longer present. However, as above, that doesn't implicitly imply that it's time to breathe easy and assume everything is good.
Steve, can you tell us more about the context of this thread so we can possibly help you diagnose a bit better? Under certain circumstances, for example, a failing airflow meter can trigger the code 22 error, so if we know you're suspicious about your MAF, while, under normal circumstances, an (intermittent) failure in the knock sensor or its circuit will not make the car "cough and splutter" (as it is purely a monitoring device).
Seeing as your car did cough and splutter when the check engine light came on, suspicion would suggest that the code 22 was actually an indirect result of a misreading airflow meter, or else there's a short circuit somewhere in your wiring loom in which the knock sensor circuit is involved.
Given you've had an induction kit on, the obvious path of suspicion would be the MAF. Does the sensor in your car at the moment have a stripe of green paint on its mounting flange?
Why? Did it appear dirty/grimy, was your car suffering from some sort of problem that led you to believe the sensor was contaminated, or did you just do this electively?
No, it isn't a "good indication" at all, where did you get that idea? It'd be great if it worked but unfortunately the only thing it's a good indication of is your propensity to believe stuff you read on the internet without thinking about it.
This "test" is complete bullsh*t and gives you no indication whatsoever about any of the hardware in your car, let alone the "health" of the airflow meter.
Just FYI, the mode in which you read off the diagnostic codes from the check engine light (i.e. connecting the black plugs) is called Read Memory Mode, not test mode. Test mode's the one where you connect the green plugs and it cycles all the components under the bonnet.
If you've had the knock sensor (22) error, keep a close eye on your Check Engine Light as if it's come one once, chances are it'll come on again. Also if your car was coughing and spluttering as the error came on, I would not, at this point, assume that everything is fine just because it's gone away.
If the light's gone off, that means the error condition that caused it to come on in the first place is no longer present. However, as above, that doesn't implicitly imply that it's time to breathe easy and assume everything is good.
Steve, can you tell us more about the context of this thread so we can possibly help you diagnose a bit better? Under certain circumstances, for example, a failing airflow meter can trigger the code 22 error, so if we know you're suspicious about your MAF, while, under normal circumstances, an (intermittent) failure in the knock sensor or its circuit will not make the car "cough and splutter" (as it is purely a monitoring device).
Seeing as your car did cough and splutter when the check engine light came on, suspicion would suggest that the code 22 was actually an indirect result of a misreading airflow meter, or else there's a short circuit somewhere in your wiring loom in which the knock sensor circuit is involved.
Given you've had an induction kit on, the obvious path of suspicion would be the MAF. Does the sensor in your car at the moment have a stripe of green paint on its mounting flange?
I cleaned the MAF sensor about a week before i put the standard airbox back on. Purely because of the things i have read on here. And the fact that i was using a "cone filter".
When i say cough and splutter it was more like a hold back of power and then the engine light came on. about a mile later then the petrol light came on. Straight to garage to fill up.
There is no green strip on the MAF.
Splitpin. As you have gathered by now im border line retarded
so if there is any other info you require then just scream at me.
14 July 2010, 04:53 PM
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Hmmmm. Were you accelerating reasonably hard and/or round a corner when you had the "hold back" and the check engine light?
Also, just for clarification, the green stripe I'm referring to should be actually on the sensor mounting flange (next to the upper security torx mounting screw), like this (thanks to Joz for the pic):
If your sensor doesn't have that green stripe (or the white C36xxxx) text, if I were in your shoes I would buy a new one and fit it ASAP. This is purely on the basis that if you don't have a stripe sensor, that means the one in your car is at least five years old, and, as we know, has spent some time in an induction kit.
On this basis alone it's a candidate for elective replacement.
Also, just for clarification, the green stripe I'm referring to should be actually on the sensor mounting flange (next to the upper security torx mounting screw), like this (thanks to Joz for the pic):
If your sensor doesn't have that green stripe (or the white C36xxxx) text, if I were in your shoes I would buy a new one and fit it ASAP. This is purely on the basis that if you don't have a stripe sensor, that means the one in your car is at least five years old, and, as we know, has spent some time in an induction kit.
On this basis alone it's a candidate for elective replacement.
16 July 2010, 10:26 PM
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Not sure there's any more we can tell you at this juncture buddy. It's not going to be possible for any of us to tell you with certainty what caused the CEL, so you have the option either to sit back and see if it recurs, or to take some elective action on the basis of a hunch.
If I were in your shoes I would probably fit a brand new airflow meter. Given that your current one has spent some time behind the cone filter, and given the symptoms, it wouldn't be surprising to find it's not quite what it once was.
One thing you could do, if you have some security Torx screwdrivers is to loosen off the two large screws holding the sensor in position and rotate it 180 degrees in its housing (or if you don't have the screwdrivers, use a mirror to look underneath).
This should allow you to see a four digit code printed in white text on the underside of the mounting flange. The first number of that code is the year the sensor was manufactured. If it's a 7, for example, that means your sensor's around 3 years old, and on that basis you'd probably be justified in replacing it anyway, especially given the cone filter, and the odd engine behaviour.
If I were in your shoes I would probably fit a brand new airflow meter. Given that your current one has spent some time behind the cone filter, and given the symptoms, it wouldn't be surprising to find it's not quite what it once was.
One thing you could do, if you have some security Torx screwdrivers is to loosen off the two large screws holding the sensor in position and rotate it 180 degrees in its housing (or if you don't have the screwdrivers, use a mirror to look underneath).
This should allow you to see a four digit code printed in white text on the underside of the mounting flange. The first number of that code is the year the sensor was manufactured. If it's a 7, for example, that means your sensor's around 3 years old, and on that basis you'd probably be justified in replacing it anyway, especially given the cone filter, and the odd engine behaviour.
17 July 2010, 12:04 AM
#13
Not sure there's any more we can tell you at this juncture buddy. It's not going to be possible for any of us to tell you with certainty what caused the CEL, so you have the option either to sit back and see if it recurs, or to take some elective action on the basis of a hunch.
If I were in your shoes I would probably fit a brand new airflow meter. Given that your current one has spent some time behind the cone filter, and given the symptoms, it wouldn't be surprising to find it's not quite what it once was.
One thing you could do, if you have some security Torx screwdrivers is to loosen off the two large screws holding the sensor in position and rotate it 180 degrees in its housing (or if you don't have the screwdrivers, use a mirror to look underneath).
This should allow you to see a four digit code printed in white text on the underside of the mounting flange. The first number of that code is the year the sensor was manufactured. If it's a 7, for example, that means your sensor's around 3 years old, and on that basis you'd probably be justified in replacing it anyway, especially given the cone filter, and the odd engine behaviour.
If I were in your shoes I would probably fit a brand new airflow meter. Given that your current one has spent some time behind the cone filter, and given the symptoms, it wouldn't be surprising to find it's not quite what it once was.
One thing you could do, if you have some security Torx screwdrivers is to loosen off the two large screws holding the sensor in position and rotate it 180 degrees in its housing (or if you don't have the screwdrivers, use a mirror to look underneath).
This should allow you to see a four digit code printed in white text on the underside of the mounting flange. The first number of that code is the year the sensor was manufactured. If it's a 7, for example, that means your sensor's around 3 years old, and on that basis you'd probably be justified in replacing it anyway, especially given the cone filter, and the odd engine behaviour.
Steve
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