Originally Posted by Chris 'n' Jen (Post 9494334)

Hi mate

If you need help reading the code I have the means to do it if you have an OBDII port. Nothing as fancy as Romraider but it should nonetheless read the code. Might point you in the right direction.

I’m not too far from you – if your car is still drivable I could meet you sometime at the services where the A689 meets the A19. Think there is a KFC and the like there.

Chris

Originally Posted by hpoolsteve (Post 9494085)

Here goes..... On saturday i got rid of my cone filter and replaced it with a standard airbox. (no problems with fitting etc)

Originally Posted by Chris 'n' Jen (Post 9494620)

Originally Posted by Splitpin (Post 9494684)

If the ECU wasn't mapped for the cone filter, that's a very good move.



Why? Did it appear dirty/grimy, was your car suffering from some sort of problem that led you to believe the sensor was contaminated, or did you just do this electively?

No, it isn't a "good indication" at all, where did you get that idea? It'd be great if it worked but unfortunately the only thing it's a good indication of is your propensity to believe stuff you read on the internet without thinking about it.

This "test" is complete bullsh*t and gives you no indication whatsoever about any of the hardware in your car, let alone the "health" of the airflow meter.



Just FYI, the mode in which you read off the diagnostic codes from the check engine light (i.e. connecting the black plugs) is called Read Memory Mode, not test mode. Test mode's the one where you connect the green plugs and it cycles all the components under the bonnet.

If you've had the knock sensor (22) error, keep a close eye on your Check Engine Light as if it's come one once, chances are it'll come on again. Also if your car was coughing and spluttering as the error came on, I would not, at this point, assume that everything is fine just because it's gone away.



If the light's gone off, that means the error condition that caused it to come on in the first place is no longer present. However, as above, that doesn't implicitly imply that it's time to breathe easy and assume everything is good.

Steve, can you tell us more about the context of this thread so we can possibly help you diagnose a bit better? Under certain circumstances, for example, a failing airflow meter can trigger the code 22 error, so if we know you're suspicious about your MAF, while, under normal circumstances, an (intermittent) failure in the knock sensor or its circuit will not make the car "cough and splutter" (as it is purely a monitoring device).

Seeing as your car did cough and splutter when the check engine light came on, suspicion would suggest that the code 22 was actually an indirect result of a misreading airflow meter, or else there's a short circuit somewhere in your wiring loom in which the knock sensor circuit is involved.

Given you've had an induction kit on, the obvious path of suspicion would be the MAF. Does the sensor in your car at the moment have a stripe of green paint on its mounting flange?

Originally Posted by Splitpin (Post 9499272)

Not sure there's any more we can tell you at this juncture buddy. It's not going to be possible for any of us to tell you with certainty what caused the CEL, so you have the option either to sit back and see if it recurs, or to take some elective action on the basis of a hunch.

If I were in your shoes I would probably fit a brand new airflow meter. Given that your current one has spent some time behind the cone filter, and given the symptoms, it wouldn't be surprising to find it's not quite what it once was.

One thing you could do, if you have some security Torx screwdrivers is to loosen off the two large screws holding the sensor in position and rotate it 180 degrees in its housing (or if you don't have the screwdrivers, use a mirror to look underneath).

This should allow you to see a four digit code printed in white text on the underside of the mounting flange. The first number of that code is the year the sensor was manufactured. If it's a 7, for example, that means your sensor's around 3 years old, and on that basis you'd probably be justified in replacing it anyway, especially given the cone filter, and the odd engine behaviour.