6 error codes ?
#1
6 error codes ?
6 error codes
I done a check on my scoob and thease are the codes it has come up with all i need to no is if any of them are serious and can i reset the ecu / reset them ?
p0340 Camshaft position sensor A circuit bank 1 or single sensor.
p0420 Catalyst system Efficiency below Threshhold bank 1.
p0171 System Too lean bank 1.
p0137 O2 sensor circuit low voltage bank 1 sensor 2.
p0031 Ho25 Heater control circuit low bank 1 sensor 1.
p0519 Idle Air control system performance.
I done a check on my scoob and thease are the codes it has come up with all i need to no is if any of them are serious and can i reset the ecu / reset them ?
p0340 Camshaft position sensor A circuit bank 1 or single sensor.
p0420 Catalyst system Efficiency below Threshhold bank 1.
p0171 System Too lean bank 1.
p0137 O2 sensor circuit low voltage bank 1 sensor 2.
p0031 Ho25 Heater control circuit low bank 1 sensor 1.
p0519 Idle Air control system performance.
#2
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6 error codes
I done a check on my scoob and thease are the codes it has come up with all i need to no is if any of them are serious and can i reset the ecu / reset them ?
p0340 Camshaft position sensor A circuit bank 1 or single sensor.
p0420 Catalyst system Efficiency below Threshhold bank 1.
p0171 System Too lean bank 1.
p0137 O2 sensor circuit low voltage bank 1 sensor 2.
p0031 Ho25 Heater control circuit low bank 1 sensor 1.
p0519 Idle Air control system performance.
I done a check on my scoob and thease are the codes it has come up with all i need to no is if any of them are serious and can i reset the ecu / reset them ?
p0340 Camshaft position sensor A circuit bank 1 or single sensor.
p0420 Catalyst system Efficiency below Threshhold bank 1.
p0171 System Too lean bank 1.
p0137 O2 sensor circuit low voltage bank 1 sensor 2.
p0031 Ho25 Heater control circuit low bank 1 sensor 1.
p0519 Idle Air control system performance.
model year would help
#5
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Have you actually got a problem with the car.
Could be a load of old codes stored.
Clear the codes, go for a good drive in all sorts of conditions (traffic, cruise, Motorway etc)
Come back and check them again..
Go from there
Could be a load of old codes stored.
Clear the codes, go for a good drive in all sorts of conditions (traffic, cruise, Motorway etc)
Come back and check them again..
Go from there
#6
Thanks no prob with car as such drives ok well seams to boost ok the only prob i still got is burning oil blowing out whitish / grey smoke when ever i come to a junction but it not all the time and some time it is worse than others . I am not loosing water or nothing ?
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Oil could well have buggered the lambda sensors so expect those sensor 1 heater and sensor 2 voltage ones to come back up (hence the cat efficiency code and system lean also)
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#9
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the wideband front lambda sensors aren't cheap if one or both of them are knackered.
However I'd be more concerned over the oil it's burning rather than some random codes it might be displaying.
However I'd be more concerned over the oil it's burning rather than some random codes it might be displaying.
#10
I have had the prob with smoke for a wile now i have changed oil gad new turbo etc etc i have checked the plugs they are telling me the engine is running spot on i am not loosing water i have checked everything and i really am at a loss . I asked at a subaru dealer / parts they said if it was oil rings it would poss smoke all the time and it would show on my plugs and also if i had a cracked piston it would do the same and i also would loose powere the car would prob not run as well so i really dont no ?
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Of course the Lambda sensors wont be any good if they've packed up
But there is no point changing them if there is something else wrong that will kill them again.
Pure assumption that is is the oil though, so don't take that as gospel.
Basically forget worrying about the codes and get the actual problems with the car fixed first.
But there is no point changing them if there is something else wrong that will kill them again.
Pure assumption that is is the oil though, so don't take that as gospel.
Basically forget worrying about the codes and get the actual problems with the car fixed first.
#13
Thanks but i dont no what the prob is i took the front lamber out and it did not look to bad a little black soot on it i then took the lamber out of the down pipe and that was really black sooty so i would at a gues say the oil was coming from turbo or around that area but as i say i really dont no there is no oil in the intercooler either ?
#14
Of course the Lambda sensors wont be any good if they've packed up
But there is no point changing them if there is something else wrong that will kill them again.
Pure assumption that is is the oil though, so don't take that as gospel.
Basically forget worrying about the codes and get the actual problems with the car fixed first.
But there is no point changing them if there is something else wrong that will kill them again.
Pure assumption that is is the oil though, so don't take that as gospel.
Basically forget worrying about the codes and get the actual problems with the car fixed first.
Last edited by youngscars; 07 July 2010 at 09:00 PM.
#17
i reset the codes and been in car all day how long do i need to drive it before exspecting the light to come back on .
I took the plugs out again and they are like new and look as they should do so the engine is running fine . I also took both lamber censers out again the one up front was not that bad a little sooty but the one further back on the down pipe was really sooty so really not sure why and were the oil / smoke is coming from apart from the oil seals have gone on the turbo / how do i tell if oil seals in turbo have gone ?
I took the plugs out again and they are like new and look as they should do so the engine is running fine . I also took both lamber censers out again the one up front was not that bad a little sooty but the one further back on the down pipe was really sooty so really not sure why and were the oil / smoke is coming from apart from the oil seals have gone on the turbo / how do i tell if oil seals in turbo have gone ?
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Where abouts are you mate?
Maybe worth seeing if anyone can clear codes then take the battery off over night and fire her up etc. Don't freak out when you first start it with the AVCS as it plays silly buggers for a little bit until you drive it.
Steve
Maybe worth seeing if anyone can clear codes then take the battery off over night and fire her up etc. Don't freak out when you first start it with the AVCS as it plays silly buggers for a little bit until you drive it.
Steve
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disconnecting the battery wont do a thing to your model year car. Forget that.
Taking the lambda sensors out and looking at them is not going to tell you whether they are knackered or not.
As I said before the codes in the ECU COULD simply be old codes stored.
Wait until something new pops up, could be tomorrow, could be next week.
When it does, you'll have a better idea of what the ECU thinks is wrong with the car.
It is then for you to deduce from this info what is ACTUALLY wrong with the car.
What prompted you to go checking the codes in the first place?
Were you happy with what the car was doing before you checked the codes?
AVCS is just the variable camshafts. (active variable camshaft system or valve control system, I forget)
But being as you have no way of viewing live data, let alone any way of re-settting the ECU you wont be seeing any of that information.
More crap you don't need to worry yourself about at this stage basically.
Taking the lambda sensors out and looking at them is not going to tell you whether they are knackered or not.
As I said before the codes in the ECU COULD simply be old codes stored.
Wait until something new pops up, could be tomorrow, could be next week.
When it does, you'll have a better idea of what the ECU thinks is wrong with the car.
It is then for you to deduce from this info what is ACTUALLY wrong with the car.
What prompted you to go checking the codes in the first place?
Were you happy with what the car was doing before you checked the codes?
AVCS is just the variable camshafts. (active variable camshaft system or valve control system, I forget)
But being as you have no way of viewing live data, let alone any way of re-settting the ECU you wont be seeing any of that information.
More crap you don't need to worry yourself about at this stage basically.
Last edited by Fuzz; 08 July 2010 at 08:51 PM.
#21
The car seams to drive fine boost fine etc etc but the engine mag light was on so thought would do a check thats all . I only checked the lamber censers for piece of mind and as i said the second one was very sooty as i am still trying to find out why i am getting a white / grey smoke from exhaust ?
I have reset the codes and been in the car all day drove it hard etc etc but as you say i will wait for light to come back on and go from their but if their was something really bad would the engine mag light not come on strait away ?
I have reset the codes and been in the car all day drove it hard etc etc but as you say i will wait for light to come back on and go from their but if their was something really bad would the engine mag light not come on strait away ?
#22
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To say "yea mate it could theoretically melt down and not ever show any warning lights" would worry you even more wouldn't it..
So stop worrying about it for now and wait until the CEL light comes back on and go from there.
If there WAS something really bad wrong with it you be feeling it or hearing it wouldn't you?
Chill..
So stop worrying about it for now and wait until the CEL light comes back on and go from there.
If there WAS something really bad wrong with it you be feeling it or hearing it wouldn't you?
Chill..
#23
Thanks m8 very true as i say i did check the plugs and they are fine and i am keeping an eye on water and oil even though i am loosing / burning a little that i also need to sort out and find out why and were its coming from i will keep you posted m8
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