sti345

iTrader: (2)

hi all new to this site, any idea's on getting a snaped bolt from inside the crank?? its the one that hold's the aux belt on. thanks

Splitpin

Do you mean the crank pulley bolt? If so first question for you to answer is whether it's even worth trying to extract it. If it's in the remains of that engine you've posted photographs of in the other thread, it might be worth spending a bit of time working out whether that collection of bits is usable before spending time and effort trying to make it so.

Did the bolt shear when you were trying to remove it, or has it failed on car when the engine was running? If the latter chances of damage to the nose of the crank and/or the keyway are quite high, so as above work out whether it's worth getting out before you try it. If it sheared when removal was attempted, that suggests it's rusted in, and again this doesn't say anything good about the condition of the rest of the engine. And, if it is rusted in, you can pretty much forget trying to remove it.

If you do decide to try and get it out, only chance you'll have will be drilling down the middle of it and then turning a bolt remover in, preferably with some penetrant and a bit of heat to assist. Given the tightening torque you'll be lucky to shift it though.

sti345

iTrader: (2)

hi, yes it was the crank pully bolt. the engine was running before this bolt came off, the bloke split the engine to change the crank but lost interest so i now have it not bad for a swap with a red top corsa. anyway i have a good look and i think he has tryed to drill it out so a new crank is in order it does come with a spare engine so happy days, the car is comeing to me this week some time so i will need all the help you all can give. anything more i should know about the build would be fab. thanks

prodriverules

iTrader: (52)

if you go on utube there are plenty of vids on how to strip and rebuilt ej2o motors fella.Ryan

sti345

iTrader: (2)

cool i will have a look, i will let you all know how it all goes. thanks

prodriverules

iTrader: (52)

nice 1 bud good luck and keep us posted for shore i like to c theses builds in progress.Ryan

sti345

iTrader: (2)

hi all, right picked the car up on wednesday and it looks ok also had the spare engine,here are a few pics of the car........



so there she is, ok i got a problem, the crank has gone on the engine that was in the car so he had a spare one with only two pistons in her...can i swap the pistons over because the look diff here are 2 pics....1 with the pistons from the old engine and the other pic is of the piston that is in the spare one?


thanks.

dynamix

iTrader: (3)

No - dont mix and match pistons.

sti345

iTrader: (2)

sorry my fault, what i was trying to say is can i swap all four over to the spare block? other wise i will have to split both blocks and swap the cranks over... what is the best option. thanks

sti345

iTrader: (2)

can anyone help??? thanks

sti345

iTrader: (2)

hi all, just about to go down the shed to swap the pistons around....and just want to make sure its ok to do it? thanks

sti345

iTrader: (2)

hi all just a quick one what size allen bit do i need to take the blanking plugs out to expose the piston pins on the side of the block? and also what socket do i need for the head bolts and the block bolts that hold it all together. thanks

JDM_Stig

iTrader: (3)

Hi, Is there a reason you cant use the spare engine without swapping bits and bobs about ?

sti345

iTrader: (2)

hi the spare one only has two pistons so i was going to swap the 4 pistons from the engine with the sh&ged crank...but the rods on the spare one feels like they have play in them when moveing them left to right? not sure if this is right so i was going to split the blocks and have a look at the shells.

MOTORS S GT

iTrader: (2)

Block bolt head size 12mm, blanking plug for gudgeon pin removal 14mm.

If your swapping pistons about look on the block halves & you will see letters ie A or B etc stamped on the top surface, these should match the letters on your pistons A or B etc, these are matched bore sizes from new.

sti345

iTrader: (2)

hi, pistons are out.. all the bolts are off.. any tips on splitting the blocks without any damage? thanks

sti345

iTrader: (2)

any safe idea's? thanks

markjmd

iTrader: (11)

Have you tried sharp taps all the way around with a wooden mallet?

sti345

iTrader: (2)

not with that, but with a block of wood and a lump hammer and it is fast tight..!!!

dynamix

iTrader: (3)

Have you undone ALL the bolts from both halves and the little 19mm one in the sump ?

sti345

iTrader: (2)

hi, got the block apart and it was very tight, job done , the new crack is in and want to know what is the sequence for tightening the block and head bolts are? thanks

sti345

iTrader: (2)

as above.thanks

dynamix

iTrader: (3)

head bolts are:

5 - 2 - 4
3 - 1 - 6

3 - 1 - 6
5 - 2 - 4

Go up in 20 ft/lb increments

sti345

iTrader: (2)

hi mate what about the block is there a sequence or just dog them up.

sti345

iTrader: (2)

what h/g do i get for my wrx? i cant seem to find ej20gd only ej20gn thanks

sti345

iTrader: (2)

just got subaru h/g x 2 £60 each!!!!!!!! anyway heads are on just waiting for the new plastic cam pullys. what is the best way to get rid of old instant gasket on the sump there is **** loads of it, the block is ok its just the sump. also does anyone have a diagram of where all the pipes go in the bay i can work some of it out but not all of it.thanks