kevpott

iTrader: (2)

hi all i put my 02 wrx in to test mode to clean out the boost solenoid . the fans started but i got nothing fromt he boost solenoid , unlike my old classic that used to click like made . justwondering if this is normal are should it click away like my old classic

rookymatt

iTrader: (15)

My boost solenoid was quiet too, "52" plate wrx, found that this was actually faulty on my last remap session, now have a nice reliable 3 port fitted. Junk it mate. Get a better one fitted!

kevpott

iTrader: (2)

can i fit a 3 port with out having it mapped if not i think i might look for another 2 port

rookymatt

iTrader: (15)

You'll need a map for 3 port. Best bet is to get another 2 port. Have you manually tested yours mate? (taken off the car and powered it indipendantly??)

r1c

iTrader: (9)

Surely an indepndant test is not needed. If it don't click then it's fooked! Rookymatt if you changed yours and it clicked afterwards prob solved yeah.

rookymatt

iTrader: (15)

No it always clicked mate, just very very quietly. Thats why i took mine off and manually checked it for piece of mind. Upon finding it to work when i tested, i fitted it back. Only for a week later to pants itself.

kevpott

iTrader: (2)

no i havent checked it maually off the car . but i can say there is no noise from it at all not even a change when sprayed with brake cleaner

kevpott

iTrader: (2)

right i got holdof anther 2 port solenoid from some one and i have the same problem nothing in test mode , only the fans still . i have tried them both wired to the battery and they click on and of as they should do . so i decided to check the plug for the solenoid to see if there was any power coming from it in test mode and there was . the readings was going up and down as they should to turn it on and off . now im stuck and getting stressed with the car . any help would be very thanked

NEILB1

iTrader: (9)

I have just asked this same question as well in another thread, I am getting nothing and going out not to chack the voltage from the plug, IF YOU ARE GETTING VOLTAGE at the plug i would say you have another faulty unit fella,
Off to check mine now l

NEILB1

iTrader: (9)

Right i have just been out and these are the results,

From the blue/yellow wire i am getting 11v + and that is staying like that all the time


From the black wire i am getting nothing


Now should my 11v+ be clicking one and of or not, if not i have a faulty unit with the looks of it but i am still getting boast i think lol

kevpott

iTrader: (2)

i put the black tester lead to the black wire an red to the other and my reading was chancing from around 10.6 upto 11.58 as tho it was coming on and off . my bug is still boosting hitting around 1.1 bar

NEILB1

iTrader: (9)

if the black wire is a negative then that confirms i have a shagged unit then !

kevpott

iTrader: (2)

dont say that i just got my other one from some one on here , and that seems f+_"£d to

NEILB1

iTrader: (9)

have you tryed a direct feed to it from the battery ?

kevpott

iTrader: (2)

yea and they both click

Splitpin

The wire with positive power in it shouldn't "click on and off". That wire should be permanently powered when the ignition is on - and should be equal to the voltage in the main power rails when checked against ground.

The connector pin with "no volts" in it is actually the control wire. To check whether it is working, use your multimeter in resistance mode to check for changes in impedance when you have the ECU in diag mode. It should alternate between very high (if not almost open circuit) impedance and very low - relative to ground.

While you have your meter out, check the impedance of the coils in your solenoid. The correct number is between 17 and 21 ohms. If the impedance is significantly higher than that - or open circuit, the solenoid's knackered.

NEILB1

iTrader: (9)

Now i am a bit thick here lol what is the resistance mod on the multimeter ( is this the continuity mode)and how do i check the impadance of the coils in the solenoid ?

dynamix

iTrader: (3)

you will have a setting on the main dial marked with Ω

NEILB1

iTrader: (9)

will give it ago now

NEILB1

iTrader: (9)

Right i have been out and got this result from testing the solonoid

Am i right in thinking it is goosed, WHAT are the problems from a shagged unit as well ?

kevpott

iTrader: (2)

just tried the one i bought and getting 32.1 as a reading , the one on my car is reading 33.4

Splitpin

A reading in that ballpark is probably indicative of a good coil - the numbers I gave you last night are out of a Subaru databook. If you hang five I'll go see if I've got a standard solenoid hanging around to get a measurement off.

Splitpin

Right, have just checked an MY00 two port solenoid that is known to work properly. Coil impedance is 32.18 ohms - so on that basis the figures you're seeing above are good.

Before going any further, what actually is the "problem" you're trying to fix here Kev? Is it just that the solenoid doesn't noticeably click when you put the ECU in test mode? If so, as Matt says above, sometimes you can't hear it.

If the car is boosting correctly, this isn't something to worry unduly about. If you're only getting actuator boost (i.e. half a bar or so), take the solenoid off the bracket - but leave it plugged in electrically and then, with test mode running, try and spray brake/carb cleaner through the inlet port (the one from t-piece). It should alternate between gushing back out and exiting through the other port as the solenoid switches on and off.

NEILB1

iTrader: (9)

but i thought anything more is broke . even when i touch mine i cant feel in clicking never mind hear it

Splitpin

Open or short circuit is a broken coil (i.e. electrical failure). As I said earlier that 17-21 ohm figure is from a Subaru book and they're prone to having the odd error in them - also wouldn't be too surprised to find that 17-21 is correct for an early car, and that the later solenoids are slightly higher impedance, but the book hasn't been updated to reflect the hardware change.

However, all that said, if you can't feel any movement at all when holding the it in your hand, despite the ECU being in test mode, then that seems odd. It's always possible that the pistons in both solenoids are stuck - although if you say they both click when connected directly to a 12 volt battery, this clearly isn't the case.

However, if your car is boosting more or less normally - it is clear that the solenoid is working. Unless of course there's a manual boost controller or some other third party device actually controlling the wastegate.

What's actually wrong here, what are you trying to fix?

NEILB1

iTrader: (9)

i was just trying to find out why i can not feel or hear the unit clicking etc

kevpott

iTrader: (2)

i dont have any probs with my boost just went to clean it and it was quite compared to the one on my old classic , but from what your saying then i have no probs apart from me being paranoid about things .