Hey guys,

as title said i need some help please,

I have a classic wrx import on a 96 plate and the head gaskets were changed about a month ago, put the engine in over the weekend and no its only running on 2 cylinders.

I've changed the spark plugs, and the coil packs but still no joy.

when i remove the coil packs from the drivers side the engine stalls but when i remove them from the passenger side nothing happens.

what could be the reason for this?

ive pluged the 2 plugs under the dash together and the check engine light doesn't flash so i know its not a sensor fault as such.

any help would be greatful.

 

Compression test for starters mate

 

Swap the coilpacks around, to see if the fault "moves with the packs" to the new cylinders, or remains with the existing cylinders. This in itself can rule out the coilpacks for sure...

 

As Joz said, and once you've ruled those out what r1c said.

Thereafter if still no joy it may well be down to an issue with the rebuild or potentially faulty gasket/not sealed properly.

Edited to add: You have remembered to plug the injectors over the offending cylinders into the engine loom haven't you?? Just a thought

 

I'm presumming that 'new' coil packs means all 4, but if not then definately swap them over like joz said, just out of interest why were the gaskets changed? Overheated???

 

joz- swapped the coil packs around and all coil packs work.

scoobiewrx555- yeah all the injector plugs are all plugged in.

r1c- that would be the next test i guess.

any other ideas fellas?

 

yeah the car was overheating and the top and bottom rad hoses expanded to 3 times there normal size. and you could hear and see water coming out of the head.

no the 2 that i thought weren't working have be changed for used ones but they have been checked on the side that does work and they are working fine.

 

You got the heads and possibly block skimmed or faced by an engineering firm before fitting??

 

yeah the heads were skimmed but i dont think the block was. could this cause the problem?

but its like the coil packs are not getting power if that makes sense?

 

The block is much more resistant to warping than heads are but under extreme circumstances it can happen if subjected to a lot of heat, but by then you would probably have done some internal damage in which case it would be done as part of a rebuild if the block was serviceable.

If the block face was inspected and deemed undamaged then you should be fine, however IMHO having the block faced (taking very little off like a couple of thou) is good practice and just ensures all surfaces are 100% flat.

Something isn't right for sure but before you go dismantling your engine eliminate any external issue electrical or otherwise. The fact that you say it's like the coil packs aren't getting any power, i presume they were fine before in which case have you left something unconnected.

 

So you're thinking an electrical fault stopping power to coil packs? Why not stick a sparkplug or 2 in those coil packs and see if it's sparking.

If it's not electrical then check the cambelt is timed up right.

Then do compression check, may even be a valve issue with incorrect refitting (if that MY has shims, can't remember?)

 

Compression test as suggested above to check the internal health of the engine,then start looking at the electrical/fuel side of things.


Mick

 

The car was running fine before the head gaskets were changed.

i have checked all fuses, relays and all the plugs are connected on the engine and the 2 main plugs by the battery are also connected.

could it be an ecu issue? or more likely to be a mechanical fault?

 

The car was running fine before the head gaskets were changed.

i have checked all fuses, relays and all the plugs are connected on the engine and the 2 main plugs by the battery are also connected.

could it be an ecu issue? or more likely to be a mechanical fault?

 

Out of interest get your manual out and as has been said make sure you've got pulley timing marks all lining up and you haven't got one cam running 180degrees out or something silly like that.

You'd better do a compression test before you start tearing any more hair out. At least if compression is good, and cambelt went back on and camshafts timed up correctly, then it's back to electrical issue.

 

all the timing is correct, i even re did the timing myself to make sure so i know thats fine.

i will do a compression test tomorrow to see what the reading is and go from there i suppose.

thanks for all your help guys

 

Hope you didnt get the Inlet and Exhaust cams mixed up and fitted in the wrong place.