Electric Boost Controller
20 May 2010, 12:08 PM
#1
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Electric Boost Controller
Alright everyone,
Going to be fitting a Gizzmo boost controller this weekend, and would like to just remove the standard 3 port and map sensor... can i do this without getting error codes come up on the ecu? or is it best to leave them wired in?
Also, has anyone got any good settings for the Gizzmo to run 1.15 bar
Cheers
James
Going to be fitting a Gizzmo boost controller this weekend, and would like to just remove the standard 3 port and map sensor... can i do this without getting error codes come up on the ecu? or is it best to leave them wired in?
Also, has anyone got any good settings for the Gizzmo to run 1.15 bar
Cheers
James
20 May 2010, 01:48 PM
#2
Leave the 3-port on and change the 1.2bar MAP sensor for a 1.7bar MAP sensor from a later v3/v4 car, sell your 'Giz-a-mo' and put the money from that towards a proper remap to make best use of all your mods. Upgrade the injectors to make best use of your TD05 and you'll see over 340-350bhp so long as you change the intercooler for a front mount?? The gearbox is pretty much near or on the limit there but you might get away with it.....I say might!! 
Just upping the boost with a cnotroller is not the right way to do it on a Subaru, you need to change the mapping and couple of other bits. An ESL remap will get you what you need from the ECU and it's cheaper than a blown engine.
Just upping the boost with a cnotroller is not the right way to do it on a Subaru, you need to change the mapping and couple of other bits. An ESL remap will get you what you need from the ECU and it's cheaper than a blown engine.
20 May 2010, 02:11 PM
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I removed the 3 port because it was making the car overboost like crazy on track last time, gave harvey a ring and said i should go for a electronic boost controller to better control the boost (think my 3 port is knackered)
The car is running a polar performance chip so the standard boost has been raised to 1.15bar.
Put a manual boost controller in for my last session last weekend to stop it over boosting, and had it set to 0.5 bar (guessed what to set it at before going on track, but didnt guess right)
Was planning on fitting the electronic one so i can set it up while im on track... When i got the car it came with a manual boost controller on, but as everyone said keep the 3 port i took the manual boost controller off and put it back to standard but it caused nothing but problems, which is why i put the manual boost controller back on... im thinking the 3 port/map sensor is actually knackered so went the electronic boost controller route.
The car is running a polar performance chip so the standard boost has been raised to 1.15bar.
Put a manual boost controller in for my last session last weekend to stop it over boosting, and had it set to 0.5 bar (guessed what to set it at before going on track, but didnt guess right)
Was planning on fitting the electronic one so i can set it up while im on track... When i got the car it came with a manual boost controller on, but as everyone said keep the 3 port i took the manual boost controller off and put it back to standard but it caused nothing but problems, which is why i put the manual boost controller back on... im thinking the 3 port/map sensor is actually knackered so went the electronic boost controller route.
20 May 2010, 02:16 PM
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I had been told that my car didn't need a restrictor pill in it (93) wrx - had a look in the pipe and it seems there is no restrictor pill in there.
Thought it would have just been easyer to set up the electronic boost controller instead of messing around with different bits / new parts / pipes...
Just set it up to 1.15 bar max or what ever.
Thought it would have just been easyer to set up the electronic boost controller instead of messing around with different bits / new parts / pipes...
Just set it up to 1.15 bar max or what ever.
20 May 2010, 02:21 PM
#6
Maybe. But normally if things are playing up, it's prudent to try to get back to OEM as much as possible, then going from there. After all pills are literally pennies (or you can make your own) and take bugger all to fit, etc.
But the fact there was no pill in there at all will mean that significantly more air will be bled away from the w/g thus causing serious boost build-up, until the MAP / ECU / w/g intervenes.
I'd personally try running it with the correct pill in (and without that controller) first. If you can get it to stop the overboosting with a pill, you can then make some money back by flogging that controller.
IMO.
But the fact there was no pill in there at all will mean that significantly more air will be bled away from the w/g thus causing serious boost build-up, until the MAP / ECU / w/g intervenes.
I'd personally try running it with the correct pill in (and without that controller) first. If you can get it to stop the overboosting with a pill, you can then make some money back by flogging that controller.
IMO.
Last edited by joz8968; 20 May 2010 at 02:25 PM.
20 May 2010, 02:28 PM
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The standard 3 port does use a restrictor, just in a different place compared to a 2 port setup. If you had a chip, the map on it will not be specific to the car, so what else do you expect? I would have started by checking the factory restrictor on the 3 port (it's fitted in the bottom pipe of the solenoid), and checking the wastegate actuator wasn't tightened too far.
If you put the gizzmo controller on, you still need to have the factory map sensor fitted, it is used for more than just boost control! If you want you could leave it in plugged in but not plumbed in, but personally I would set the boost controller up to give you a nice reliable 1.05 - 1.1 bar and keep the fuel cut functionality of the ECU intact. You can replace the factory solenoid with a 150ohm resistor to prevent the CEL.
If you put the gizzmo controller on, you still need to have the factory map sensor fitted, it is used for more than just boost control! If you want you could leave it in plugged in but not plumbed in, but personally I would set the boost controller up to give you a nice reliable 1.05 - 1.1 bar and keep the fuel cut functionality of the ECU intact. You can replace the factory solenoid with a 150ohm resistor to prevent the CEL.
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20 May 2010, 06:27 PM
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Maybe. But normally if things are playing up, it's prudent to try to get back to OEM as much as possible, then going from there. After all pills are literally pennies (or you can make your own) and take bugger all to fit, etc.
But the fact there was no pill in there at all will mean that significantly more air will be bled away from the w/g thus causing serious boost build-up, until the MAP / ECU / w/g intervenes.
I'd personally try running it with the correct pill in (and without that controller) first. If you can get it to stop the overboosting with a pill, you can then make some money back by flogging that controller.
IMO.
But the fact there was no pill in there at all will mean that significantly more air will be bled away from the w/g thus causing serious boost build-up, until the MAP / ECU / w/g intervenes.
I'd personally try running it with the correct pill in (and without that controller) first. If you can get it to stop the overboosting with a pill, you can then make some money back by flogging that controller.
IMO.
Cheers
James
20 May 2010, 06:33 PM
#9
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The standard 3 port does use a restrictor, just in a different place compared to a 2 port setup. If you had a chip, the map on it will not be specific to the car, so what else do you expect? I would have started by checking the factory restrictor on the 3 port (it's fitted in the bottom pipe of the solenoid), and checking the wastegate actuator wasn't tightened too far.
If you put the gizzmo controller on, you still need to have the factory map sensor fitted, it is used for more than just boost control! If you want you could leave it in plugged in but not plumbed in, but personally I would set the boost controller up to give you a nice reliable 1.05 - 1.1 bar and keep the fuel cut functionality of the ECU intact. You can replace the factory solenoid with a 150ohm resistor to prevent the CEL.
If you put the gizzmo controller on, you still need to have the factory map sensor fitted, it is used for more than just boost control! If you want you could leave it in plugged in but not plumbed in, but personally I would set the boost controller up to give you a nice reliable 1.05 - 1.1 bar and keep the fuel cut functionality of the ECU intact. You can replace the factory solenoid with a 150ohm resistor to prevent the CEL.
I was thinking about setting it around 1bar - 1.1 as they have a setting to over boost by a few percent IIRC, so have it boost up to the full 1.15 for a couple of seconds and have it run at a steady 1.05 the rest of the time.
I take it if i remove the selenoid that i jut shove the resistor between the two terminals.
Cheerrs
James
20 May 2010, 07:08 PM
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Mainly measures atmospheric pressure to apply corrections to the map for a number of functions like larget boost level (N/A for you), but also ignition corrections, fuel correction, idle functions and the like.
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