steve1275

hello
I am new to scoobys as previously played with classic minis. I have a 1996 import wrx that is in need of the valve stem oil seals replacing as it is smoking when blippping the throttle at idle and when pulling up at junctions but clears once moving. If it was a mini i would be doing it myself but it looks like a pain in the **** to even get a plug out on the scoob.So just asking if there is anyone near the south coast west sussex that can be recomended to do the job and a rough idea on price. Wish it was like a mini £24 for head set and a couple of hours.IF ONLY LOL

I am grateful of any help and advice

cheers
steve

steve1275

can anyone help?
just need to know what to expect once heads and valves are done on these engines, are the stem seals a common thing to go on these cars?.
or am i looking at a top end rebuild?, car is running fine just gets smokey once warm at idle and pulling away.

cheers
steve

Bananawasp

how many miles has your car done. do you no the previous history of the car. scoobys are prone for destroying pistons and ring's if the correct fuel is not used. take off the oil filler cap and check the back pressure, thats probably the best place to start before you going pulling the heads off its not a pleasant job to do with the engine in!!!

Splitpin

Steve, as has been said, the stem seals on these are usually pretty good so as a matter of simple probability it would less surprising to find your smoke caused by piston damage or a worn turbo than leaky seals.

If the seals have gone, it would be next to impossible to replace them with the engine in the car, and quite difficult (albeit not quite impossible) to do so without taking the heads off. As has been said above investigating and ruling in/out other possible causes for this symptom would be a worthwhile move to make.

Edited to add - thinking about it, I'm not sure it would be possible to get the seals out without removing the heads, as you need access to the undersides of them either to use a hand-held spring compressor, or to do it the "proper" way with a bench mounted wedge and a press.

his-n-her-scoobs

iTrader: (5)

Hey Splitpin. It is possible to replace valve stem seals on an engine without removing the heads. Used to do it all the time on escort x-flows and Peugeot 1.9gti engines in particular.

Weld a spark plug base to an air fitting. Stick it in the plug hole with air behind it and the valves won't move (after the camshaft or rocker arms have been removed, obviously). Shop air good but a ciggy lighter powered compressor will do it. Next tool to rig is the spring compressor. Use the head off a knackered one and loose rivet/bolt it about 150mm up a 500mm flat bar. Loose rivet/bolt a hook of some sort on the short end. Hook under something solid on the head (bar bolted across the cam cover holes works well) and press down on the spring cap to release the spring collets in the usual way.

Used to have an overbored Mexico engine with a Piper 270 cam. Would regularly break valve springs due to over revving. Using the above method could change the spring in about 20 minutes. Saved a fortune in gaskets and time.


Not enough room on a Scooby to do it with the engine in situ tho. And i doubt if the seals are the problem anyway, as already stated the rings and turbo are the normal culprits on these engines.

steve1275

thanks guys
the car has 128,000 km so i am guessing 80000mls. I do have some history with it showing recent turbo belts and oil changes. there is no excess pressure when the oil cap is off and the problem isnt to bad for the first 6miles or so until the oil warms up, should i try flushing the engine and using some good oil 15w50 synthetic, or just get the heads off and get the valves and pistons checked out, power is fine and engine runs fine.
if all is bad is it better to go the route of low mileage used engine from a company that supplies and fits with some warranty? its a 1996 import ej20 engine.

thanks
steve

steve1275

hi guys
what is the best way to check if its the turbo thats at fault?
seems to work fine but i have no experience of a turbo cars so what are the first things to look at?
smoke does seem to come from the turbo area when blipping the throttle at idle when at correct running temp. looks like oil smoke the same as the exhauste, is there anyone near bognor regis that could help out?

Splitpin

I know, that's why I said it was difficult (but not quite impossible).