which anti freeze in my 2001 STI BLUE or PINK?
06 April 2010, 09:48 PM
#1
which anti freeze in my 2001 STI BLUE or PINK?
Hi peeps, i was going to put a top up in my car so went & got a bottle from Halfords - they guided me to get a 'pink' dillute version as my car is +2000 they said so i should be using that but i swear i have blue anti freeze in there provided by a very good Scooby garage;-) is it wrong to mix them?? any help would be much appreciated.
cheers
Tim
cheers
Tim
06 April 2010, 11:20 PM
#3
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You should ideally avoid mixing different types of coolant Tim. Although I'm by no means certain, I strongly suspect that the pink "Advanced" stuff Halfords sell is actually Glysantin G30 OAT which is very good, so if you were doing a complete coolant change, using this stuff would probably be a good thing. If your coolant's more than a couple of years old, it probably wouldn't do you any harm to change it completely.
If you do intend just to top up, without knowing what's in your car already the "safe" approach would be not to mix them. According to BASF's product page here, "If different coolants are mixed together, the different additive packages can interfere with each other’s performance, resulting in considerably poorer protection against corrosion."
If your car has a bluey-green coolant in it already, this might well be G48. If this is what it is, you should be able to buy a fully compatible top-up from any Peugeot/Sh*troen/VW/BMW/etc dealer.
Alternatively, if you know who put the current fill in, why don't you call in and get some more of the same?
If you do intend just to top up, without knowing what's in your car already the "safe" approach would be not to mix them. According to BASF's product page here, "If different coolants are mixed together, the different additive packages can interfere with each other’s performance, resulting in considerably poorer protection against corrosion."
If your car has a bluey-green coolant in it already, this might well be G48. If this is what it is, you should be able to buy a fully compatible top-up from any Peugeot/Sh*troen/VW/BMW/etc dealer.
Alternatively, if you know who put the current fill in, why don't you call in and get some more of the same?
Last edited by Splitpin; 06 April 2010 at 11:22 PM.
07 April 2010, 04:43 PM
#4
cheers for the replies peeps
Still not sure which one our cars (Scoobies of 2000+ models) are to have pink anti-freeze or blue? if it is ok to use blue as there is some in there already i will go back & change it but if its ment to have pink like Halfords said so.. i will flush out the blue & in with the pink
Still not sure which one our cars (Scoobies of 2000+ models) are to have pink anti-freeze or blue? if it is ok to use blue as there is some in there already i will go back & change it but if its ment to have pink like Halfords said so.. i will flush out the blue & in with the pink
08 April 2010, 05:21 PM
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You should ideally avoid mixing different types of coolant Tim. Although I'm by no means certain, I strongly suspect that the pink "Advanced" stuff Halfords sell is actually Glysantin G30 OAT which is very good, so if you were doing a complete coolant change, using this stuff would probably be a good thing. If your coolant's more than a couple of years old, it probably wouldn't do you any harm to change it completely.
If you do intend just to top up, without knowing what's in your car already the "safe" approach would be not to mix them. According to BASF's product page here, "If different coolants are mixed together, the different additive packages can interfere with each other’s performance, resulting in considerably poorer protection against corrosion."
If your car has a bluey-green coolant in it already, this might well be G48. If this is what it is, you should be able to buy a fully compatible top-up from any Peugeot/Sh*troen/VW/BMW/etc dealer.
Alternatively, if you know who put the current fill in, why don't you call in and get some more of the same?
If you do intend just to top up, without knowing what's in your car already the "safe" approach would be not to mix them. According to BASF's product page here, "If different coolants are mixed together, the different additive packages can interfere with each other’s performance, resulting in considerably poorer protection against corrosion."
If your car has a bluey-green coolant in it already, this might well be G48. If this is what it is, you should be able to buy a fully compatible top-up from any Peugeot/Sh*troen/VW/BMW/etc dealer.
Alternatively, if you know who put the current fill in, why don't you call in and get some more of the same?
could you shed some light on someone willing to learn?? I always thought anti freeze was either summer or winter and thats it.
08 April 2010, 11:38 PM
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Thanks bloke but to be honest I don't know a huge amount of detail on this one either - this by no means my specialised subject - hence popping onto BASF's website above for some self-clarification!
In this case I'm working from experience, primarily an engine I built new in 2004 and stripped to upgrade last year. It's had Mobil (pink) G30 Advanced coolant (50/50 mix with water) in it from the day it was first filled and once in pieces looked literally pristine inside, not a trace of corrosion or deposition anywhere. Ditto the rad core. Thermostat looked exactly the same as the new one I'd got out intending to fit. New one's still on the shelf!
I don't know whether there are any specific contra-indications for engines with fibrous head gaskets, but on steel HG engines the stuff does what it's supposed to do - i.e. prevent boiling and freezing, prevent corrosion and maintain its effectiveness over five years.
Incidentally that Unipart "fluorescent" coolant referred to earlier in the thread is, if I remember right, an old-school type that only has a two year replacement interval. The OAT ones are rated for five years, which tells you something about their relative effectiveness.
In this case I'm working from experience, primarily an engine I built new in 2004 and stripped to upgrade last year. It's had Mobil (pink) G30 Advanced coolant (50/50 mix with water) in it from the day it was first filled and once in pieces looked literally pristine inside, not a trace of corrosion or deposition anywhere. Ditto the rad core. Thermostat looked exactly the same as the new one I'd got out intending to fit. New one's still on the shelf!
I don't know whether there are any specific contra-indications for engines with fibrous head gaskets, but on steel HG engines the stuff does what it's supposed to do - i.e. prevent boiling and freezing, prevent corrosion and maintain its effectiveness over five years.
Incidentally that Unipart "fluorescent" coolant referred to earlier in the thread is, if I remember right, an old-school type that only has a two year replacement interval. The OAT ones are rated for five years, which tells you something about their relative effectiveness.
09 April 2010, 12:00 AM
#18
I disappeared up my own backside the other night reading about ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, silicates, phosphates, borates etc etc etc....Not sure I have quite recovered but....in layman's terms, regular changes as per the service schedule are good, even shorter intervals are even better. Aluminium blocks from the East allegedly prefer non silicate mixtures and introducing silicates into an otherwise non silicate system is bad...OAT mixtures (MOTUL INUGEL for example) contains none of the potentially harmful inhibitors flagged as bad for Subaru engines....when changing the coolant assume a fresh start with full drain, wash through and refill with the best intentions using OAT....Whilst you should not mix OAT with HOAT or indeed old skool mixes there will be insufficient residue to compromise the new choice of coolant keeping your engine cool....That said one should not assume the 'longlife' OAT will provide adequate cooling and corrosion protection for the full manufacturers claim, particularly coming from a point of ignorance regarding the previous occupant of your cooling system...therefore in layman's terms, regular changes as per the service schedule are good, even shorter intervals are even better.
Last edited by 53; 09 April 2010 at 12:02 AM.
09 April 2010, 12:34 AM
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Not sure I entirely buy the logic with these colder thermostats under typical circumstances, other than being a way of separating people from a few quid.
On the standard Subaru management at least the ECU itself doesn't regard the engine as fully up to temp until the coolant sensor reads 80 degrees celsius. A stat that opens at 71 is going to slow warmup a bit compared with the standard one and keep the final aspects of cold start enrichment switched on longer than would otherwise be the case (and switch it back on should the temp drop below 80 on a cold day/or at high speed). That doesn't exactly sound desirable.
Additionally/although, if Joz's 83 degree average is typical, it's not like these thermostats materially lower running temps anyway, other than, as above, elongating the warmup process a bit. As above, on this basis I'm not sure I see the point.
On the standard Subaru management at least the ECU itself doesn't regard the engine as fully up to temp until the coolant sensor reads 80 degrees celsius. A stat that opens at 71 is going to slow warmup a bit compared with the standard one and keep the final aspects of cold start enrichment switched on longer than would otherwise be the case (and switch it back on should the temp drop below 80 on a cold day/or at high speed). That doesn't exactly sound desirable.
Additionally/although, if Joz's 83 degree average is typical, it's not like these thermostats materially lower running temps anyway, other than, as above, elongating the warmup process a bit. As above, on this basis I'm not sure I see the point.
Last edited by Splitpin; 09 April 2010 at 12:36 AM.
09 April 2010, 12:41 AM
#23
I have rock-steady idle. Momentary enrichment on startup at c.1500rpm, then after a minute or two, down to the 800rpm or so (haven't properly looked yet at what it is). This is on a PFC mapped by JGM... and tweaked by Zen after the rebuild
I see what you're saying re the ZS stat. But the way I look at it is that it 'can't harm'... when hooning.
I don't know whether this is codswallop: but someone told me that the ZS one, if it totally fails, will fail in the "open" position (unlike, allegedly, the OEM 78C one????)
SP, is the above paragraph tripe?
I see what you're saying re the ZS stat. But the way I look at it is that it 'can't harm'... when hooning.
I don't know whether this is codswallop: but someone told me that the ZS one, if it totally fails, will fail in the "open" position (unlike, allegedly, the OEM 78C one????)
SP, is the above paragraph tripe?
Last edited by joz8968; 09 April 2010 at 12:50 AM.
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