can anyone tell me . . .
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can anyone tell me . . .
how to remove the wrist pins (gudgen pins) from the pistons in the ej20, iv removed the alan key plug in the side of the cylinder, removed a circlip and made a slide hammer with a 90 degree bend in to pul the pin out. but it wont budge, it will move about 5mm either way (in or out) but wont come any further. help please lol
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how to remove the wrist pins (gudgen pins) from the pistons in the ej20, iv removed the alan key plug in the side of the cylinder, removed a circlip and made a slide hammer with a 90 degree bend in to pul the pin out. but it wont budge, it will move about 5mm either way (in or out) but wont come any further. help please lol
Screwed that to the end of a slide hammer and it was easy.
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Nice tip there splitpin. i used to use a screwdriver which had the end bent over until it snapped ...and implemented an idea of Daz's which was to use a scissor jack handle.....by cutting the end off just enough to go into the gudgeon pin and then hold at an angle and bash the handle with a mallet.
Hope that helps....
Hope that helps....
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pete that video is spot on mate thank you!
right this is how i managed it. i made a slide hammer tool at work, no chance would it budge it, so i improvised a bit, i got a length of 6mm bar 450mm long with the end bent over 90degrees, bent the other end over about 100 degrees and gave it a good 30 or so wacks with a lump hammer (yes their tight) untill it came free, they are honestly so tight, any way once the pin is out of the way you turn the crank round untill the pistion stays T.D.C turn the crank again untill conrod drops out of the piston, then u push the piston back down the barrel making sure u twist it a little so it comes out of the original line. then when u turn the crank round again the conrod will catch the piston skirt and safely pop the piston out of the top of the cylinder. if you turn it over some more u should see the opposite piston line up through the hole you just took the pin out of. and you can knock the opposite side with a long punch, or bit of 6mm bar REMEMBER TO REMOVE OTHER CIRCLIP FIRST( as i forgot and bent the circlip before i realised . . . DOH ) out as its alot easier than trying to pull it out the same as the first one. hope you understand. its a bit difficult trying to explain, but im sure you'll see when you come to it.
right this is how i managed it. i made a slide hammer tool at work, no chance would it budge it, so i improvised a bit, i got a length of 6mm bar 450mm long with the end bent over 90degrees, bent the other end over about 100 degrees and gave it a good 30 or so wacks with a lump hammer (yes their tight) untill it came free, they are honestly so tight, any way once the pin is out of the way you turn the crank round untill the pistion stays T.D.C turn the crank again untill conrod drops out of the piston, then u push the piston back down the barrel making sure u twist it a little so it comes out of the original line. then when u turn the crank round again the conrod will catch the piston skirt and safely pop the piston out of the top of the cylinder. if you turn it over some more u should see the opposite piston line up through the hole you just took the pin out of. and you can knock the opposite side with a long punch, or bit of 6mm bar REMEMBER TO REMOVE OTHER CIRCLIP FIRST( as i forgot and bent the circlip before i realised . . . DOH ) out as its alot easier than trying to pull it out the same as the first one. hope you understand. its a bit difficult trying to explain, but im sure you'll see when you come to it.
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yeh should be alright, all you got to do is get two out by slide hammer/or the improvised bar. and then the other two u can punch out. you doing a standard rebuild or something more exciting?