DJ Dunk

iTrader: (5)

Agggggggggghhhhhhh [img]images/smilies/mad.gif[/img]

Right, now thats over with can anyone tell me how to remove the front number plate braket on MY98 ?

The two screws have a star shaped opening with a small raised bit in the centre so no normal screwdriver will drive it

My number plate screw broke and the metal oblong fixing thingy from inside the braket has fallen out and I need to get it back in again. No standard fingers are long enough to reach inside to replace it either.

Please help as I am driving with no front number plate

Please feel free to move this to withever section appropriate.

Alex Creasey

If you've got one of those screwdrivers with interchangeable bits you can buy the bit you want from B&Q, Homebase etc. Usually come in a 'security pack' or similar, this is what I did.
Hope this helps.
Alex.

DJ Dunk

iTrader: (5)

Excellent I've got a star driver that would fit but its the pointy out bit in the centre of the hole that stops it.

You think they do one of these with a hole in it ?

Many thanks

Dr Hu

They are called Torx Safetybits,

The pointy up bit is to stop it being removed easily. All the airbag parts on the car are fitted with these screws for safety.

You can get the Torx driver bits with the centre hole....in fact all subaru dealers have them in their special toolkit for working on airbag parts.

You can buy them easyish from a good hardware/tool supplier shop.

DJ Dunk

iTrader: (5)

Aahhh, Torx, found a bit about those.

Anyone know the size bit required to undo the bracket bolts ?

DJ Dunk

iTrader: (5)

Found em Thanks for all your help


Torx Tamper Proof Torx Bit Set Just £2.99 from my local hardware store

speedking

My toaster was held together by these.

If the bits are available for £2.99 in what way are they security? Torx inconvenience bits would be more appropriate

DJ Dunk

iTrader: (5)

My Iron too Whats the point on a number plate bracket
If someone wants to nick my number plate then they'll unscrew the plate, not the bracket. Weird

BOB.T

Exactly! Chuffing annoying isn't it![img]images/smilies/mad.gif[/img]

I used to be a mechanic, I asked my snap on dealer why there was a need for all these new fangelled tools, he said it was to stop the public doin jobs them selves and to get work back in garages. Well hello, us mechanics have to buy our own tools too, thank you very much!

I'm out of the trade now though

Bob

DJ Dunk

iTrader: (5)

These babys are stuck on tight too. 'fraid I may shear them if I'm not careful

They're haven't got reverse threads have they ?

RoShamBo

iTrader: (1)

I have to remove this tonight - so I take it I need to get myself down Halfords & purchase a torx bit - what size do I need ?

Ro.

DJ Dunk

iTrader: (5)

I just bought a set of 6 for £2.99.

Can't remember which one fitted though, but one did

DJ Dunk

iTrader: (5)

I give up Damn things will not budge.

Number plate now held on with a cable tie Anyone got any ideas about freeing seized bolts ? Tried WD40 . . . .

DJ Dunk

iTrader: (5)

For info its the number 30 Tx bit that is required . . . .

RoShamBo

iTrader: (1)

DJ - I emailed you.
Mine came off with minimum effort - really easy.
One thought though....I was removing my PIAA's last night too & one bolt was really really stiff so I used a strap grip thing - the sort of tool you might use to open jars or oil filters etc - bought it from a DIY store - the strap type - wrapped it round the screwdriver & twisted & bingo - might be worth a shot ?

Ro.

Jolly Green Monster 2

Spraying them with lots of WD40 and leave it to sink in... you say you sprayed it already so it might have helps now or at least when you get them to turn there is less chance of the sheering.

I have swapped plates on both my scoobies as I have private plates.

First car didn't use the normal bolts, the plate had been held on with self tapping screws, screwed into the front of the bracket next to the larger holes for the normal bolts.

Second Scoobie has the normal bolts used but like you when I refitted the new plate one of the nuts fell out the back. So I got some double sided tape (this padded stuff from most diy places of car places) and put it on the front of the bracket over the hole. Then put a cross shaped hole in the tape with a knife (two slits) and pushed the bolt through, the tape gripped the bolt as the hole was now tight and the tape gripped the plate to the bracket too.. been on there for just over a year and 20,000miles with not problems.

Try either of about methods...

teknopete

As usual I`m L8 in comming in on this 1
WD40, duckoil or plusgas have all worked for me in the past at freeing up rusted screws. The secret to using them though is as has already been said "spray it on then leave it to penetrate".
Nothin beats a good bit of penetration ooer

Pete

Tim Caddick

My rear number plate screws sheared off, so I stuck the plate back on with double-sided foam pads, a technique used by lots of garages apparently - who needs screws!

DJ Dunk

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for the input guys. The things still won't budge and the heads are starting to get messed up, they'll soon be beyond help

More WD40 again today I think . . . . .

RoShamBo

iTrader: (1)

Cant a dealer help ?

What would they use if they had to take the numberplate off to do some work ?

Ro.

teknopete

Dunc,

As a last resort, drill the heads off. This will enable u 2 remove the panel, then file 2 parallel flats on the bolt, get a pair of vice grips on the flats n convince the bolt out Either that or if u have access to a set try an easyout.

Pete