engine light
#1
engine light
hi. i have a 94 type ra n my engine light has come on? ive done that test where you connect them to black plugs togtether n it said i needed a new maff sensor which i have bought but it has come back on. the car is in limp mode and just wondering what else i could try to sort this?
thanks alot rich
thanks alot rich
#3
about time u joined on here monkey boy.yeah he did reset it after he replaced.
looking at his car it used to have a front mount and a decat fitted but the previous owner had removed these and sold then and put standard cat on and top mount.i wondered if it had been mapped for theses mods and was causing a build up of back pressure causing maf fault?i could well wrong.
looking at his car it used to have a front mount and a decat fitted but the previous owner had removed these and sold then and put standard cat on and top mount.i wondered if it had been mapped for theses mods and was causing a build up of back pressure causing maf fault?i could well wrong.
#4
Reset should clear it.
Connect black and green connectors together. Press your accelerator peddle to the floor and turn the ignition on. Keep your foot to the floor for 10 seconds, then foot off the pedal and start your car. Immediately drive arround for a couple of mins at speeds not lower than 6-7mph so if you can keep a steady 30-40mph that's good. You'll know if the reset works because after the reset the check engine light blinks on and off a couple of times steady per second then job done. Undo the connectors and drive the car steady for a bit then increase load on the engine steadily on a long engough straight road to raise your IAM (initial advance multiplier) up to 16. This may take a couple of goes but you'll know when the car is up at full 16/16's of timing advance because it just drives so well and pulls freely.
Oh well beat me to it
P.S. If the standard air bypass valve is working correctly there won't be any back pressure on gear change and even if you have got some compressor surge on the way up any air getting back passed the maf will be minimal as the engine is still consuming air. I do understand though that V1-V2 MAFS are delicate and can be unreliable.
Connect black and green connectors together. Press your accelerator peddle to the floor and turn the ignition on. Keep your foot to the floor for 10 seconds, then foot off the pedal and start your car. Immediately drive arround for a couple of mins at speeds not lower than 6-7mph so if you can keep a steady 30-40mph that's good. You'll know if the reset works because after the reset the check engine light blinks on and off a couple of times steady per second then job done. Undo the connectors and drive the car steady for a bit then increase load on the engine steadily on a long engough straight road to raise your IAM (initial advance multiplier) up to 16. This may take a couple of goes but you'll know when the car is up at full 16/16's of timing advance because it just drives so well and pulls freely.
Oh well beat me to it
P.S. If the standard air bypass valve is working correctly there won't be any back pressure on gear change and even if you have got some compressor surge on the way up any air getting back passed the maf will be minimal as the engine is still consuming air. I do understand though that V1-V2 MAFS are delicate and can be unreliable.
Last edited by scoobiewrx555; 13 December 2009 at 01:11 PM.
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