as you may or may not have read i'm in need of a maf for my car. I was told they are £420 from the dealer which is madness i have found a place that does genuine subaru ones for £280 but someone on here has one that they want £75 for used of course.


now i'm not sure what to do i know the new one would be better but its a lot more money but then at least i know its working 100%

i need to decide thought the other factor is the new one is driving distance away so i can get it tomorrow the other i wont get tomorrow

it seem like there is one obvious choice the new one but money is tight at this time of year.

what shall i do?

 

What year of car is it, as the complete MAF housing for pre 99 impreza's are £210, new MAF inserts for 99-00 impreza's are £89 and post 00 are £190 from import car parts.

Import Car Parts - Japanese car parts for Subaru, Nissan, Honda, Toyota, Lexus, Mitsubishi and more

Would always go new for peace of mind, and 12 month warranty... as you could end up paying 2-3 times in one year for second hand MAF's.

 

its a 97 orange label £290 on import car parts but i rang them today and they said £280 on the phone.

 

Ahh... I see your dilema!

It's always the case that you end up needing the most expensive one!!

In that case you pays your money, you take your chance... try the second hand one, maybe test it before you buy it to see if the readings are within spec on a multimeter??

 

no idea what the readings should be or i would test my old one as although i am fairly certain it is fecked there is a small doubt in my mind

 

Why are you thinking yours is buggered...?

What symptoms... Engine Check Light, Won't idle properly?

MAF fault is code 23 if you connect the black plugs under the dash.

 

Output voltage on a multimeter should be between 0 and 1v at idle, and 5v at WOT if my memory serves me.

Also if you disconnect the MAF when idling, the car should stall or drop idle speed... if it doesn't then the MAF is defuncked!

 

i was driving when the engine check light came on the car still drove ok apart from been in limp mode. I drove about a mile then stopped the engine i tried to restart it about 5 minutes later and it struggled to start, when it eventually did it kept cutting out.

with revs held on i can keep the engine running but only just its missing and back firing all over the place.

the engine check lamp is not on now ive tried to read the codes but it just gives a constant 0.5 of a second flash indicating there is no faults.

it feels like fuel starvation but ive had the pipe from the filter of and there is plenty of fuel there and seems to have a decent pressure.

when the engine is running and the throttle is pressed there is a loud clicking/ cracking noise coming from the throttle body area

by the way its a 97 sti


i have had it looked at and told maf is the problem it does drive alot beter all though not right with the maf disconnected

 

It does sound like the MAF as that's exactly the driving conditions we had when our MAF went.

Not sure why the CEL is not on anymore, or why you can't get a fault code reading...? As long as the MAF is knackered it should be throwing a fault.

Maybe try leaving the battery disconnected for 12+ hours, and then run her again to see what codes are thown.

One way to look at it is if you do buy a new/second hand MAF and it doesn't fix the problem, you could always sell it on and et some of the money back.

 

i had thought of that i would rather it fixed it though.

i wouldnt mind getting the new one so much if i new it was definately going to fix the fault

 

It does sound 99% like the MAF is gone...

Maybe confirm it with the voltage readings (as above) then take the plunge and get another one, new or used!

You should be fine once the MAF is replaced.

 

right i have decided i,m going to bite the bullet and buy a new one, just means no christmas presents for the kids this year still they are getting a bit old for all that nonesense now. At 5 and 8 its about time they started to understand the scoob comes first