wrighty338

iTrader: (33)

How do these work and what are the options with the 2.0 subaru blocks? iv got a 2.0 closed deck i was gonna 2.1 but just having a think, maybe 2.3 would be better? could i 2.3 the 2.0 block or would i need a 2.2/2.5?

is it to do with the rod length/pistons

Mus

iTrader: (2)

its an interesting one most people do is start with an ej22 block but i have heard of some go from 2.5 down to 2.3. there is some people that start with 2.0 closed deck block and some how end up with 2.5 closed deck block i think chy and pennine does that

Midlife......

iTrader: (2)

It's mainly to do with the crankshaft which dictates how far the piston travels up and down and hence the swept volume..and then you can rebore the block and fit larger pistons to increase the cc of the engine again LOL

Zen, RCMS, Enginetuner, API..........the list is quite long who can help you rather than SN

Shaun

wrighty338

iTrader: (33)

think all of the above will be open just now?

il give them a bell

wrighty338

iTrader: (33)

interesting

fastboyslim

iTrader: (2)

Hahahahahahah!

dunx

iTrader: (3)

I'm sticking a V9 crank in mine with pistons and rods to suit = 2.1

2.3 is "best", torque like a 2.5, revs like a 2.0.... if you like that sort of thing.

IMHO

dunx

Brett_555_Sti

iTrader: (18)

In general all the rod lengths in the following list are the same.

There are custom rod lengths, piston heights and cranks available for all displacements but it all depends on final usage and power or availability of the parts.

A closed deck block(CDB) will always be favoured over an open deck block(ODB) as the top of the cylinder/bore is supported, and will be able to take more punishment, but please note that there are alot of ODB's out there running decent power without any issues.

Relinering/resleeving to a larger displacement(thick sleeves) can only be done to a CDB's(expensive).

Although relinering to an original bore size(thin sleeves) can be done to any block, ODB or CDB


2.0 75mm(2.0) crank, 92-93mm stroker pistons, ODB or CDB EJ20

2.1- 79mm(2.5) crank, 92.5-93mm stroker pistons, ODB or CDB EJ20

2.2- 75mm(2.0) crank, 97-98mm pistons, ODB or CDB. EJ20(sleeved)/EJ22/T

2.35- 79mm(2.5) crank, 97-98mm stroker pistons, ODB or CDB. EJ20(sleeved)/EJ22/T

2.5- 79mm(2.5) crank, 99-100mm pistons, ODB or CDB. EJ20(sleeved)/EJ22/T(sleeved) CDB EJ25


A 2.0 CDB can be resleeved to 2.3 or 2.5 although sleeves are still known to turn and/or settle, but can also be very reliable if the work is carried out properly.

A EJ20 ODB or CDB can only be used as a 2.0 or a 2.1, if the original block is bored out to a 2.2 2.35 or a 2.5 there will be no original liner left, unless it is re sleeved(thick liner)

A EJ22/T blocks can only be used as a 2.2 or a 2.35, if the original block is bored out to a 2.5 the liner becomes to thin and weak and will fail.

A EJ22T CDB block can obviously be resleeved to a 2.5 or down to 2.0(uncommon)

Alot of high power cars use EJ22T CDB blocks, because of the strength and reliabilty of the block and liner, which normally does not have problems with the sleeves turning(although anything is possible).


A EJ20 can be ODB or CDB

A EJ22 is a ODB

A EJ22T is a CDB

A EJ25 block is a ODB

I believe there is a certain workshop/tuner that is using/testing a 2.5 "destroked", 2.5 stroker pistons/rods with a shorter 2.0 crank, which will be very revvy but not exactly torquey, but give better turbo spool up over a 2.0/2.1 of course. The displacment works out to 2.33 aswell but cannot be compared to a long stroke 2.33/2.35 engine.


I hope that helps, some repeats there, I am open to correction on all of the above.

STI_Baly

iTrader: (23)

Well Put Brett!

Wrighty what will you be doing with car? i.e. road, track, rally etc ?

And do you have any power goals in mind?

wrighty338

iTrader: (33)

Brett - fantastic help mate thanks

Baly - road/track/drag. enginetuners 2.1's pull 500bhp proven. im now thinking a 2.33 would be best balance between revs/torque but id rather keep the torque with more displacement. bhp figures wouldnt really bother me, as i could have 500 horses and it would drive crap. i just want an ideal balance really, il never always run it at its full potential on the road only off it.

Alan Jeffery

In that case, go for a 450 bhp 2.5. A 2.33 is an expensive solution if you aren't going for big power, due to the rarity cost of the blocks.
We say a 2.1 is a great option for anybody building what was a 2 litre, on the basis that you are making gains where you want them with no losses. The engine is very tough, particularly with a CDB, and not at all expensive for what you can get out of it. It doesn't drive crap with 500 bhp either!
We've built plenty of all three, and they all have something to offer. You need to spend time thinking about exactly what you want from the car, budget, and other issues like clutch, intercooler type etc.

utaka

does anyone know about 2.4 conversion i was origionally having a 2.33 but now ive been told 2.4 for better reliability im not concerned as it is being done by a reputable tuning company just wondered if anyone else has this cc engine

wrighty338

iTrader: (33)

i think im going to need to experience a 2.1 a 2.3 and 2.5 before i make a decision

utaka

best plan i drove a 2.1 last year revvy but not as much as a 2.33 but 2.4 is supposedly best of all worlds. my mate has a well sorted 2.5 started wit a 2.5 sti uk engine though