strong crank for v3?
#1
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strong crank for v3?
hi,
im after a crank for a v3 sti with center thrust bearing, that will handle 500+bhp, anyone got any names and prices,
cheers phil.
im after a crank for a v3 sti with center thrust bearing, that will handle 500+bhp, anyone got any names and prices,
cheers phil.
#2
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Its not normally the crank which is the "weakest link" - its the standard 'nut' type rods.
The later V7 STi 'bolt' type rods were much better, but at that power you want the best forged rods you can afford to fit tbh.
Standard crank would take it but if you want to push the power much higher, then dig deep and get a Billet crank.
Mick
The later V7 STi 'bolt' type rods were much better, but at that power you want the best forged rods you can afford to fit tbh.
Standard crank would take it but if you want to push the power much higher, then dig deep and get a Billet crank.
Mick
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thanks mick, i have the H-beam rods and getting forged pistons, its just the crank i need to replace, so is a standard v3 sti crank good enough for around 500bhp?
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i have a roger clark motor sport 2.5 crank was £400 with h beam rods and woosner pistons this crank is very good but i wouldnt stay with center thrust i would have your block converted to end thrust but thats my thought thats what i had done when i had me 2.3 stroker fitted
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#8
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yes they are good, i had one of them in my other engine but ill need to have this engine macined to take the end thrust bearing and i didnt want to do that, is there anything with the mid thrust that are strong enough for 500?
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you can get a v9 crank that are very strong centre thrust i had one in a sti running 450 bhp
i would of thought you will have to have your engine bored out to fit race spec pistons anyway?
i would of thought you will have to have your engine bored out to fit race spec pistons anyway?
Last edited by jabbawockymark; 27 August 2009 at 06:18 PM.
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yer my engine iam building now has a 2.5 crank then h beam manley rods with woosner pistons engine has been boored for the pistons this will be a 2.2 stroker with sti heads that have been ported polished also full race spec cams with high lifters so theres loads of ways of doing it
#15
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You'd still need to machine the block for rear thrust.
If you're determined to have a crank big enough for big power but have a centre thrust crank then RCMS do a crank that will fit in either.
Be warned it aint cheap and you could get your block machined for rear thrust, buy the bearings, by a new 2.5 crank and still have a grand left over. Your best bet really is to just get the block machined. Most if not all the big power 2.35 have had this done so I dont see why you're against it.
If you're determined to have a crank big enough for big power but have a centre thrust crank then RCMS do a crank that will fit in either.
Be warned it aint cheap and you could get your block machined for rear thrust, buy the bearings, by a new 2.5 crank and still have a grand left over. Your best bet really is to just get the block machined. Most if not all the big power 2.35 have had this done so I dont see why you're against it.
Last edited by dazdavies; 27 August 2009 at 06:36 PM.
#16
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yer my engine iam building now has a 2.5 crank then h beam manley rods with woosner pistons engine has been boored for the pistons this will be a 2.2 stroker with sti heads that have been ported polished also full race spec cams with high lifters so theres loads of ways of doing it
Didn't realise manley made stroker rods and wossner made stroker pistons.
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i like the idea of that, the other block i have is a cdb thats been machined for the end thrust and bored .5 over, so may just bore that to 1mm, use the H-beam rods i have, then all i need would be a 2.5 crank end thrust and pistons to match the 1mm over bore, is that right?
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i like the idea of that, the other block i have is a cdb thats been machined for the end thrust and bored .5 over, so may just bore that to 1mm, use the H-beam rods i have, then all i need would be a 2.5 crank end thrust and pistons to match the 1mm over bore, is that right?
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nice, aint it exciting when ya find out something new,
so is there any size difference in the rod length or would i use the same as the 2L?
so is there any size difference in the rod length or would i use the same as the 2L?
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well you can have standard size or go with a shorter rod like i did then you get more conbustion the more conbustion the better lol
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right, sorry to go on with the questions but i will go this way and need to know what im looking for, so where will i get shorter rods and what price? also the 2.5 crank, will it fit in the machined end thrust cdb i have with no probs?
#23
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If your going down the Stroker route Phil, you will need stroker rods and pistons (as you are increasing the stroke by 4mm with the 2.5 crank) as mentioned above,so try Mark @ Lateral Performance for a price on the parts.
92.50mm bore with a 2.5 crank = 2.1 Stroker.
97.50mm bore with a 2.5 crank = 2.35 Stroker.
The EJ257 crank is rear thrust so will fit your rear thrust block.
Early EJ25 cranks were centre thrust and had a 48mm big end journal - so no good for the 52 mm Impreza rods.
Mick
92.50mm bore with a 2.5 crank = 2.1 Stroker.
97.50mm bore with a 2.5 crank = 2.35 Stroker.
The EJ257 crank is rear thrust so will fit your rear thrust block.
Early EJ25 cranks were centre thrust and had a 48mm big end journal - so no good for the 52 mm Impreza rods.
Mick
Last edited by merlin24; 27 August 2009 at 07:33 PM. Reason: added to
#26
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Cheers banny. :-)
Is it possible to swap over pistons WITHOUT unbolting the rods from the big end journals and extracting the rod/piston assy.? i.e. can you release/extract the circlip/gudgeon pins via that 'inspection' hole thing, so as to be able to extract the pistons out of the top of the block?
Or do you have to take it all apart (inc. crank) and always do a full, proper rebuild, etc...?
Is it possible to swap over pistons WITHOUT unbolting the rods from the big end journals and extracting the rod/piston assy.? i.e. can you release/extract the circlip/gudgeon pins via that 'inspection' hole thing, so as to be able to extract the pistons out of the top of the block?
Or do you have to take it all apart (inc. crank) and always do a full, proper rebuild, etc...?
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Cheers banny. :-)
Is it possible to swap over pistons WITHOUT unbolting the rods from the big end journals and extracting the rod/piston assy.? i.e. can you release/extract the circlip/gudgeon pins via that 'inspection' hole thing, so as to be able to extract the pistons out of the top of the block?
Or do you have to take it all apart (inc. crank) and always do a full, proper rebuild, etc...?
Is it possible to swap over pistons WITHOUT unbolting the rods from the big end journals and extracting the rod/piston assy.? i.e. can you release/extract the circlip/gudgeon pins via that 'inspection' hole thing, so as to be able to extract the pistons out of the top of the block?
Or do you have to take it all apart (inc. crank) and always do a full, proper rebuild, etc...?
#28
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If your going down the Stroker route Phil, you will need stroker rods and pistons (as you are increasing the stroke by 4mm with the 2.5 crank) as mentioned above,so try Mark @ Lateral Performance for a price on the parts.
92.50mm bore with a 2.5 crank = 2.1 Stroker.
97.50mm bore with a 2.5 crank = 2.35 Stroker.
The EJ257 crank is rear thrust so will fit your rear thrust block.
Early EJ25 cranks were centre thrust and had a 48mm big end journal - so no good for the 52 mm Impreza rods.
Mick
92.50mm bore with a 2.5 crank = 2.1 Stroker.
97.50mm bore with a 2.5 crank = 2.35 Stroker.
The EJ257 crank is rear thrust so will fit your rear thrust block.
Early EJ25 cranks were centre thrust and had a 48mm big end journal - so no good for the 52 mm Impreza rods.
Mick
you always explane things well, so if i bore the block a further .5mm to 1mm over it will be close to a 2.2 also?
thanks for the help , ill make enquires for prices.
phil.
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