Engine Management Light - Help Pleeeeeease!!
#1
Engine Management Light - Help Pleeeeeease!!
Hey everyone,
I'm new to the site and am the proud new owner of a 2003 Blob-Eye Scoob.
I took the car for a nice long drive over the weekend - about 300 miles round trip with no problems whatsoever, however, this morning my Engine Management has come on with no obvious problems.
The car still seems to pull well enough and sounds fine but the light is on constantly from start-up.
I know from reading other threads that it could be any number of things but just wanted some general advice on what to do now. Is the car still safe to drive (The light isn't flashing, it's on solidly), any rough guesses as to the likely costs to fix?
Any help would be greatly appreciated as I'm new to these awesome machines and just want to make sure that driving it isn't going to make things worse before I can get it looked at properly.
Thanks
I'm new to the site and am the proud new owner of a 2003 Blob-Eye Scoob.
I took the car for a nice long drive over the weekend - about 300 miles round trip with no problems whatsoever, however, this morning my Engine Management has come on with no obvious problems.
The car still seems to pull well enough and sounds fine but the light is on constantly from start-up.
I know from reading other threads that it could be any number of things but just wanted some general advice on what to do now. Is the car still safe to drive (The light isn't flashing, it's on solidly), any rough guesses as to the likely costs to fix?
Any help would be greatly appreciated as I'm new to these awesome machines and just want to make sure that driving it isn't going to make things worse before I can get it looked at properly.
Thanks
#2
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well mate it could be any number of things so firstly you need to have the code read by a garrage or somone that has a scanner (obd 2 reader)these tools will give you the code and point you in hopefully the right dirrection. they plug into a socket under your steering wheel on dash,its like a scart socket,depending on what code comes up then you can sort out problem.
Last edited by carl heath; 17 August 2009 at 11:26 PM.
#6
Hey guys. Thanks for the speedy replies. The only modification is a large (4" I think) stainless exhaust system. Could that have something to with it? It seemed fine before!
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#11
Thanks for your help everyone. Got it booked in for Friday so should find out what's wrong then. Anybody know if i need to take it really easy or whether it can be driven hard as there's no noticable drop in performance and everything still sounds ok?
#13
#14
Hey people,
Got the Scoob looked at yesterday and it turned out the fault was an intermittent misfire which had now cleared - strange as I never heard or felt anything. Possibly a coil pack on it's way out??
Anyway, the fault had cleared but the light had stayed on so it's all been reset and is back running like a dream.
Anybody like to suggest what modifications I should start with now - as I said earlier, it already has a full stainless system so what would people suggest as the next logical mod to make - what about air filters/induction kits? Also wondered what your opinions are regarding Dump/BO Valeves as there seems to be a lot of contradictory stuff out there - some say good while others say they're bad due to the air already being measured by the ECU etc.....
Look forward to hearing your suggestions and thanks again to all you guys who replied.
Got the Scoob looked at yesterday and it turned out the fault was an intermittent misfire which had now cleared - strange as I never heard or felt anything. Possibly a coil pack on it's way out??
Anyway, the fault had cleared but the light had stayed on so it's all been reset and is back running like a dream.
Anybody like to suggest what modifications I should start with now - as I said earlier, it already has a full stainless system so what would people suggest as the next logical mod to make - what about air filters/induction kits? Also wondered what your opinions are regarding Dump/BO Valeves as there seems to be a lot of contradictory stuff out there - some say good while others say they're bad due to the air already being measured by the ECU etc.....
Look forward to hearing your suggestions and thanks again to all you guys who replied.
#16
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Hi mate, on the induction side just uprate your panel filter to a GREEN filter, then uprate the fuel pump, that combined with your SS exhaust and a remap will get you to about 330bhp.
remap is the most expensive thing there but go somewhere reputable like -
TSL or SCOOBYCLINIC both are nearish to you, i've been to both and can recommend either.
remap is the most expensive thing there but go somewhere reputable like -
TSL or SCOOBYCLINIC both are nearish to you, i've been to both and can recommend either.
#17
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Hi mate, on the induction side just uprate your panel filter to a GREEN filter, then uprate the fuel pump, that combined with your SS exhaust and a remap will get you to about 330bhp.
remap is the most expensive thing there but go somewhere reputable like -
TSL or SCOOBYCLINIC both are nearish to you, i've been to both and can recommend either.
remap is the most expensive thing there but go somewhere reputable like -
TSL or SCOOBYCLINIC both are nearish to you, i've been to both and can recommend either.
Tony
#20
It's a WRX - so does that mean I can't have it remapped? I'll be replaicing the HT Lead and Coilpack in the next week and hopefully starting the mods soon after. Sounds like a replacement panel filter's going to be first on the list and then....who knows. I want the greatest power gain with the minimum costs (as I'm sure everyone else does!) lol
#21
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* Decat downpipe (replace the 2-section/2-cat item with a single full decat "bellmouth" item). Get a cheapish 2nd hand one on here or ebay - c.£60-£100
* Green, A'PEXi or K&N panel filter - c.£30-40
* Walbro 255lph fuel pump - c.£70
* New spark plugs (good idea, seeing as you have that misfire - it could be them!) - c.£30
* Then get JGM to mosey on up to you for an ECUTek remap - £632.50 for 1st map and licence
If the Blobeye WRX has a TD04 turbo(?), then around 280bhp and similar lb ft of torque is yours for the taking...
Last edited by joz8968; 22 August 2009 at 11:15 PM.
#22
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You said earlier you had a ss exhaust so you just need the panel filter, fuel pump and a remap, i agree with above and think spark plugs would be a good idea.
scoobyclinic remap for £550 (not sure if that includes vat?)
Scooby Clinic | The UK's Largest Independent Subaru Specialists | 01246 590 807 - Chesterfield S42 6QX
scoobyclinic remap for £550 (not sure if that includes vat?)
Scooby Clinic | The UK's Largest Independent Subaru Specialists | 01246 590 807 - Chesterfield S42 6QX
#23
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...scoobyclinic remap for £550 (not sure if that includes vat?)
Scooby Clinic | The UK's Largest Independent Subaru Specialists | 01246 590 807 - Chesterfield S42 6QX
Scooby Clinic | The UK's Largest Independent Subaru Specialists | 01246 590 807 - Chesterfield S42 6QX
£550 (+VAT) is obviously the RRP.
Last edited by joz8968; 24 August 2009 at 01:38 PM.
#24
The Problem's Back!!!!
Hey all,
Unfortunately, the problem's come back - I've had Coil Pack's 2 and 4 replaced and the fault cleared. Then took it out for a drive and no sooner had I set off than the light came back on with the same fault!!
Really not sure what to do now - any suggestions - could it be a Spark Plug or HT Lead. Would really like to get to the bottom of it as it feels a little down on power and I obviously can't drive it to it's full potential with the light on. Also - the light now seems to flash occasionaly rather than just staying on solid - does that mean it's a serious fault?
Sorry to sound thick but I'm new to the world of Scoobs!!
Thanks guys.
Hey all,
Unfortunately, the problem's come back - I've had Coil Pack's 2 and 4 replaced and the fault cleared. Then took it out for a drive and no sooner had I set off than the light came back on with the same fault!!
Really not sure what to do now - any suggestions - could it be a Spark Plug or HT Lead. Would really like to get to the bottom of it as it feels a little down on power and I obviously can't drive it to it's full potential with the light on. Also - the light now seems to flash occasionaly rather than just staying on solid - does that mean it's a serious fault?
Sorry to sound thick but I'm new to the world of Scoobs!!
Thanks guys.
#26
Thanks for looking mate
Not sure exactly what code was given but it said "intermittent misfire on cylinders 2 & 4" so both coil packs have been replaced with brand new ones.
Like I said, the fault seemed to clear when reset but came back as soon as I drove away.
I've been advised to try new spark plugs now - only thing is that it's getting costly and doesn't seem to be solving the problem.
Not sure exactly what code was given but it said "intermittent misfire on cylinders 2 & 4" so both coil packs have been replaced with brand new ones.
Like I said, the fault seemed to clear when reset but came back as soon as I drove away.
I've been advised to try new spark plugs now - only thing is that it's getting costly and doesn't seem to be solving the problem.
#27
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right mate had an idea this would come back ! the code isnt 0304 by any chance is it ? i have 02 sti and had ecu light come up and reset about ten times and simon aka jgm said might be faulty nps switch on gearbox causing a ecu light to flag up with missfire on 4,any way simon mapped it and said there was no missfire so it then went away,after a while it come back(caused me many sleepless nights as didnt want a fcucked up scooby)i changed nps and reset light job done i thought,no come back the very next day arggggggggggg,done my head in,so i asked simon for advise and he free of charge went into map he did on it and switched it off for me for good,car has been fantastic ever sinse (about 7 months ago) so these can be ecu lights for no reason,as mine was.mine was sti tho my 02 code 0304 missfire on 4. hope this helps in some way,carl.
#28
Cheers for the advice Carl,
Someone I spoke to did say that it could be something to do with a gearbox switch. That could be the problem. It's going in for a full service next week with new plugs etc so finger's crossed.
If that doesn't sort it tho I might have to do as you sugest and get it mapped. Any idea how much that costs??
Thanks
Someone I spoke to did say that it could be something to do with a gearbox switch. That could be the problem. It's going in for a full service next week with new plugs etc so finger's crossed.
If that doesn't sort it tho I might have to do as you sugest and get it mapped. Any idea how much that costs??
Thanks
#29
recently a clients car got flooded all the way up to the roof unfortunately we were able to get it running again but the problem is the check engine lights is always on but we did an OBD2 scan and its pointing to AFM low input but when we try testing a working AFM is still would read the same. anyway we try reseting the it thru battery and obd2 scanner but to no avail as the light would not turn off. We also try to remove the connector of the AFM while the engine is running and it is still idling fine and no rough idle. anyone has any ideas how this could be solve?
Last edited by Sc0oby; 10 October 2009 at 04:28 AM.
#30
New Problem
Hey people,
Just an update on my problem and after some more advice please.
I've had new coil-packs installed and the problem's still there, only now seems to be worse!!!
The engine management light is now constantly on and flashing most of the time. Besides that - it's started to sound really bad and keps cutting out every time I approach traffic lights etc and dip the clutch - very annoying!!
I've had it in to be looked at by an Auto-Electrician who did all manner of checks and found that the coil-packs and plugs etc are all fine and fuel is getting through, however, they did a compression test and found one of the cylinders is really low and needs to be really revved hard before the compression picks up. From what I've read/been told, this could be a sticking valve, worn piston rings or even worse!!!! Not good!!
I've taken into to garage for it to be looked at but it's going to take a while (around a week) - anyone got any idea of what the problem is likely to be, and more importantly, how to fix and how much this is likely to cost?
Any help or advice is appreciated as always.
Cheers
Just an update on my problem and after some more advice please.
I've had new coil-packs installed and the problem's still there, only now seems to be worse!!!
The engine management light is now constantly on and flashing most of the time. Besides that - it's started to sound really bad and keps cutting out every time I approach traffic lights etc and dip the clutch - very annoying!!
I've had it in to be looked at by an Auto-Electrician who did all manner of checks and found that the coil-packs and plugs etc are all fine and fuel is getting through, however, they did a compression test and found one of the cylinders is really low and needs to be really revved hard before the compression picks up. From what I've read/been told, this could be a sticking valve, worn piston rings or even worse!!!! Not good!!
I've taken into to garage for it to be looked at but it's going to take a while (around a week) - anyone got any idea of what the problem is likely to be, and more importantly, how to fix and how much this is likely to cost?
Any help or advice is appreciated as always.
Cheers
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