my99 type r knock sensor !!!
#1
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: solihull
Posts: 798
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
my99 type r knock sensor !!!
hi there had CEL come on the other night while driving on motorway about 70 (honest) it came on and off just a couple of times in the space of 10 seconds...
Did the check earlier to find code 22 (knock sensor)
Is this anything to worry about or just a dodgy sensor
Engine had a rebuild by API in 2007 so am hoping its just a sensor !!!
Just a little concerned only had her 2 months !
Did the check earlier to find code 22 (knock sensor)
Is this anything to worry about or just a dodgy sensor
Engine had a rebuild by API in 2007 so am hoping its just a sensor !!!
Just a little concerned only had her 2 months !
#2
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (23)
Could be faulty sensor, theres a guy literally 2 posts before this who is after a replacement.
Lots can be found here>>> https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...ck-sensor.html
Lots can be found here>>> https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...ck-sensor.html
#7
It must be knock sensor season. Lol. My knock sensor is also gone guy i brought car from gave me a knock sensor dont know if its faulty aswell though. I only get CEL when i drive the car hard for a while. Dont come on straight away. Where the best place to get them from? I take it this is a common fault then?
Thanks
Thanks
Trending Topics
#8
What sort of nick is your airflow sensor in? If it's new and you're using the standard airbox/dumpvalve then you can probably discount this as a possible cause of your CEL. If not, however, it'd be worth plugging a diagnostic device into your ECU and logging the key sensor inputs while you're driving.
Edited to add: If you don't have access to a diag box, try resetting the ECU in the first instance to see if the CEL recurs.
If you have a multimeter, you can test the knock sensor out of the car to get at least a rough idea whether it's functional. Resistance across the two pins should be around 555K (+-10K or so), and there should be 0 ohms (i.e. dead short) between the right-hand pin (as you look into the sensor plug) and the metal base and centre slug.
This isn't a 100% authoritative test, as one that "passes" might still fault as a result of the vibration and heat it gets under the bonnet, but you can be all but certain that one that fails the multimeter will be no good in the car.
Last edited by Splitpin; 27 July 2009 at 11:37 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Mattybr5@MB Developments
Full Cars Breaking For Spares
12
18 November 2015 07:03 AM