hi there had CEL come on the other night while driving on motorway about 70 (honest) it came on and off just a couple of times in the space of 10 seconds...
Did the check earlier to find code 22 (knock sensor)
Is this anything to worry about or just a dodgy sensor
Engine had a rebuild by API in 2007 so am hoping its just a sensor !!!
Just a little concerned only had her 2 months !

 

Could be faulty sensor, theres a guy literally 2 posts before this who is after a replacement.

Lots can be found here>>> https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...ck-sensor.html

 

thanks for that ...
You say it COULD be a faulty sensor !
whats the other possiblity?????

 

Your engines knocking! I had the same on the same model, it was just the sensor, cost just over £100 for proper diagnostic check and replacement knock sensor.

 

Lol you said it V5RVLTD lol.

 

lol yeah I asked for that one !!!!!
where did u get that done matey ???

 

It must be knock sensor season. Lol. My knock sensor is also gone guy i brought car from gave me a knock sensor dont know if its faulty aswell though. I only get CEL when i drive the car hard for a while. Dont come on straight away. Where the best place to get them from? I take it this is a common fault then?

Thanks

 

A faulty sensor, but not necessarily the one you expect. It's unclear why, but under certain circumstances on the 99-00 cars (and possibly others) a failing MAF sensor can cause the code 22 error.

What sort of nick is your airflow sensor in? If it's new and you're using the standard airbox/dumpvalve then you can probably discount this as a possible cause of your CEL. If not, however, it'd be worth plugging a diagnostic device into your ECU and logging the key sensor inputs while you're driving.

Edited to add: If you don't have access to a diag box, try resetting the ECU in the first instance to see if the CEL recurs.

If you have a multimeter, you can test the knock sensor out of the car to get at least a rough idea whether it's functional. Resistance across the two pins should be around 555K (+-10K or so), and there should be 0 ohms (i.e. dead short) between the right-hand pin (as you look into the sensor plug) and the metal base and centre slug.

This isn't a 100% authoritative test, as one that "passes" might still fault as a result of the vibration and heat it gets under the bonnet, but you can be all but certain that one that fails the multimeter will be no good in the car.