Needing to get a knock sensor and rocker gasket, but is there any way I can tell what knock sensor i need for my car. There are loads of them on eBay, all with different part numbers. Do they have a part number stamped onto them? If so I can have a look at the old one, which is below the IC I believe? How do I get the IC off to get at it>

cheers chaps

Ray

 

Just pull it out >>

See here>> https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...za-94-sti.html

 

Righty ho...needing advice here....I rang Soul's in Olney and spoke to the guy in parts as I wanted to see if i could get the part number for the Knock sensor, but he seemed to think there were 2 in the exhaust system so passed me to service who confirmed he was wrong and there was only 1....I want to get one off eBay but the fella said they dont give part numbers out. Is this right? If so, how the hell do avoid paying rip off prices and get the correct part number...he did say he needed the chassis number and the reg number to get me the right one?

HELP!!!

 

What was he on about?! That bloke was talking about the lambda sensors wasn't he?! - not what you asked for!

 

Lol tell me what car it is? and did yo get the old one out?

 

Hopefully it will be one of these and you can get on your way.

22060AA061 for Subaru Impreza Turbo 01/04/1996 to 30/06/1998

22060AA070 for Subaru Impreza Turbo 01/07/1998 to 2002

 

Its a UK 98 (october) facelift turbo. When I asked him about having a part number stamped on it, he said they dont have anything on them? deary deary me

 

Heres more info..... Now tell the scooby parts twit you want the knock sensor otherwise you will knock him out. hehe

 

Ray, unfortunately your car falls on the year when i believe the sensors changed, so can you please pull it out and post a picture in here or to my PM i will tell you then exactly what part number it is mate.

 

Cheers fella...I'll get the TMIC off tomorrow and try and get at it. I'll take a picture and post it up tomorrow when i get in

thanks again

Ray

 

Your welcome mate.

 

righty ho....got it off (ooer misses)



and stamped on it is the following:-

8408 UNISIA JECS JAPAN 22060 AA061, so I can figure out from the above what I need.....thanks for your help

 

I told you to take it out in the start didn't I lol. Glad all is sorted. Happy driving.

 

must say its in a ridiculous place, could only just get the extension bar through all the pipes and wires....weird

 

Not weird at all. It needs to be bolted firmly to the block (otherwise it won't pick up the noise), so that limits the options one way, while it also needs to be conveniently close to the wiring loom (so keeping the cable lengths as short as possible).

Given those two sets of restrictions it's about as accessible as it could get!

 

Quick question....just swapped the old knock sensor for the new one that arrived today, and started the car, only to find that the CEL came straight on? I have just disconnected the battery, so will give it 30 mins or so and go try again, but is that to be expected?

cheers

Ray

 

If no luck, try resetting the ECU by the 'correct' method by using the under-dash wires.

 

well, no joy with the first method...I'll have to do it in the morning now.....wonder if i've done something wrong.....do you have to reset the ecu when you change a sensor?

By correct method do you mean, the black and green plugs under the dashboard, depress pedal etc etc?

 

I believe the CEL code stays stored for a reasnoble time, unless cleared from memory. To be honest though, disconnecting the batt for 1/2 hour should have cleared it... although it isn't the 'correct' way to do it.


Yep, that's right mate...

Scoobypedia | Trusted knowledge for everything Subaru | Knowledge / ECU Reset

 

Righty-ho....still the same after the reset, so I'll take it all off and have another bash later...at work at the moment...damn thing.....I did notice though, that when I plugged the green and black connectors in, the fans etc seemed to go haywire on the engine, clicking and whirring away like nobody's business?

watch this space lol

 

I think that's normal.

 

Did you do the black plugs thing and get the error number?

As a general point tho you should reset the ECU after changing any engine sensor, purely to force the the car to forget any learned corrections it made with the old one and start again.

All that said tho, theoretically even if you don't reset the ECU, if the old knock sensor was causing a current CEL, the light should go out after swapping in the new one - although the historic codes would remain in memory.

So, the fact that the light is still on suggests something is still up. If it's still giving you the code 22, first thing to check would probably be the knock sensor wiring loom.

Edited to add: As Joz says, relays clicking, fans going on and off etc are all because the ECU goes into test mode when you connect the green plugs.

 

woohoo.....sorted today...not sure if i had it on to tight or not tight enough, but my mate was round with his torque wrench, and after a quick set at 24nm's and a reset, its all fine now....rocker gasket changed on drivers side as well, although its still smoking a bit, so we'll see once all the oils burnt off the exhaust

cheers chaps

 

Yeah, when my driver side cam cover gasket was changed, it took a while for the residual oil to be burnt completely away. You can tell, because you can't smell it anymore after a drive lol.

All good re. your knock sensor though. Sorted m'nyeeeah!

 

well, waste of time it seems....went out to MK cruise tonight, car was great all the way there, and as we were there. Came to leave and start up to find CEL on....checked it, code 22 again. Starting to get depressed now as it would appear that all is not well if the new sensor does not work

any ideas?

 

See, if you hadn't gone to hang out with a load of chavs at a cruise, this wouldn't have happened.

Slightly more seriously, is the "new" sensor you got a brand new, genuine one? If it is, then it should be reasonably safe to assume that it is working properly. Under these circumstances the next thing to check would probably be the condition of the plug and wiring loom around the throttle body that the sensor connects to. If it looks okay you'll probably then need to run an electrical continuity check between the sensor signal line in the connector under the bonnet, and the appropriate pin in the ECU multi-connector.

Other thing worth checking would be that the sensor ground wire is in good nick and properly connected (probably to the intake manifold, depending on the MY of your car).

If any of this sounds like double-dutch it's probably time to put the car in front of someone with a little more experience.

 

Looks like my comment above put the Kaibosh on it.