wrxben

iTrader: (1)

hi all, i have got a 2002 wrx and would like to modify it but have no idea where to start!! i'd like to end up with around 300bhp but i need to keep it reliable as its my daily driver and id like to keep it m.o.t worthy prefferably. mods so far are: blitz nur spec r (cat back), powertec induction kit and a bailey dv12 valve. help plz

wrx fifer

iTrader: (34)

if your turbo is a stock tdo4L it will maxed out around 270-280bhp so if you want more than this your gonna have to think bout changing it at some point as i have

wrxben

iTrader: (1)

yeah i had a quick look at a turbo, think it was vf34???

wrx fifer

iTrader: (34)

well thats not the standard turbo that should be good for over 300bhp

gallois

sensibly, you should start with brakes then suspension, although most people, myself included go for a 'stage1' first i.e. 280-290bhp before worrying about going around corners and stopping. as stated, a new turbo and intercooler will be needed alongside de-cat for 300+, but then you'll develop 'gearbox paranoia' where you'll be afraid to use the power for fear of damaging the gearbox, TBH i would weigh up the cost of modifying your WRX to STi levels, against the difference in p'ex for an STi.

wrxben

iTrader: (1)

thats not the one i have fitted (mine's standard) its just one ive seen on scoobyworld but they want near on a grand for it! ive heard a lot about the amount of cats on this model ie. up pipe, down pipe, can i remove any these without it failing an m.o.t? looked into sports cat down pipe

wrxben

iTrader: (1)

very good point, its looking like it could turn into an expensive transformation, cheers

wrx fifer

iTrader: (34)

you can spen an endless amount i have spent 6 grand on my current one in 2-3 months and still want to do loads just dont have the funds and yeah you can always buy one with everything already done but thats no fun eh

wrxben

iTrader: (1)

might have to lower expectations, just got a quick quote for an STi and didnt like what they came back with lol. 270 bhp may be a more realistic target for now if my box and turbo can handle this sort of power. just wanna say cheers for the advice so far guys, much appreciated

s70rjw

iTrader: (2)

The brakes on a WRX are at their limits with PPP fitted. Whatever power you have, you will need to slow down and go around corners. Spend money on your brakes before you up the power. Once your brakes are sorted, consider your suspension. Then you can enjoy the extra BHP

STI_Baly

iTrader: (23)

Maybe just a remap will give you a better response and more power.

Speak to one of the mappers i'm sure you can have more power than what you already have for a small fee.

AshMurc

i don't think it need be too pricey. I'm doing the same thing with my WRX wagon. lined up i have: have a VF23 turbo, Apexi ECU (i think your standard ECU can be remapped so you might not even need this!) sports cat system (MOT friendly), performance air filter, 440cc injectors and an uprated fuel pump. Standard intercooler is fine for 300bhp. once all that is fitted she'll get mapped and i should see 300bhp. turbo and ECU 2nd hand. prob the injectors too. exhaust sourced from who ever was doing group buys/deals, filter and fuel pump not a masive expense.

Go for it!
Ash

wrx fifer

iTrader: (34)

my stock 2003 wrx engine had walbro 255 and a sports cat and dynod at 271bhp with an ecu flash thats stock everything including turbo which is pretty much maxed out but if your turbo is a vf34 it will be good for over 300bhp with accompanying mods mate

wrx fifer

iTrader: (34)

but i did stick a tarox 6 pot brake kit on it as well like above mentioned

AshMurc

this is good advice!

corradoboy

Have a look at my car in my garage for ideas. There weren't many people could keep up with me on a charge, no matter what power they were running. In fact, cars with over 400 often did worst as they had to fight the car for control all the time.

If I were doing it all again, BC coilovers (£5-600), Whiteline 22mm front and 24mm rear ARB's (maybe £250 all in), set to stiffest with associated solid links, maybe poly bushes. Get some good rubber, Bridgestone RE070's for summer, Uniroyal Rainsport 2 for winter. RE070's added 30mph to my cornering speeds alone (dry). Performance Friction pads (or Pagid, Mintex, Ferodo) with braided lines (cheap) and DOT5.1 fluid. With 270bhp or so this will make a supremely balanced and very fast car, and be well sorted for further power mods. I only had 260 with the PPP kit.

Obviously I don't know you from Adam, but also consider driver training. The biggest performance increase I got in three years was spending a full day being tutored by a police class 1 pursuit driver. Not only did I become a much faster driver, but a much safer one too. A mod you will take with you to every car for the rest of your life.

JonMc

iTrader: (51)

Fit a sports cat, decat the up-pipe and remove the rear cat and should still be okay for an MOT.

Bin the baileys dump valve, if you really want one get a decent one, and get the car mapped to suit as the ECU expects unmetered air to be recirculated and fuels accordingly.

Don't fit the induction kit unless you have a heat shield and a good cold air feed or 2. The standard air box is good for about 300bhp with a decent panel filter. I've gone down the induction kit route as I'm planning approx 350bhp, although I have read I can go to nearly 400bhp if I'm sympathetic with the gearbox. Might get the gearbox internals cryogenically frozen as I do like the 5-speed.

corradoboy

Oh, while I'm here, the guy above has a point. Bin the dump valve as it will get you NO POWER whatsoever, and will make the car run badly and might compromise reliability. Also, the induction kit is a waste of time too, only benefitting cars running FMIC's and MAF-less set-ups. Inducing warm, dirty engine bay air may reduce power, and if the vibrations from it kill your MAF and you don't notice then it's bye-bye engine.

JonMc

iTrader: (51)

I think the MAF problems are not so much of an issue with newage cars, but some of the later classics where a little prone to MAF issues, different design of MAF iirc.

Inducing warm dirty air from the engine bay will reduce power as the air will be less dense and will be able to burn less fuel. The effectiveness of my cold air feeds, heat shielding and larger TMIC is seen with the intake temps running at about 2-3 degrees above ambient - on a good run on Sunday (25 degrees outside) I saw intake temps down to 28 degrees.

corradoboy

Agree, Classics from 98-00 with 'hotwire' MAF's were the worst offenders, but we are forever seeing people moving up to Subaru from other cars and thinking I/K's will get them more power, when in truth they don't, unless allied with a collection of supporting mods including a good source of cold air. The OE intake on New-Age Scoobs is easily good for over 380bhp, so why spunk the money on something which will have little/no benefit ? IMHO.

wrxben

iTrader: (1)

once again cheers all, ill get the air box back in (with a new panel) and remove the bailey valve, all new to me lol

corradoboy

If you want to spunk some cash and see a major benefit, get a 24mm Whiteline rear ARB and some solid links. All DIY-able, and the best pound/performance mod going. I just stuck a 25mm Neuspeed bar on the back of my missuses Skoda Octavia and it has seriously improved that POS through the corners

71/200

iTrader: (2)

A car recently remapped by JGM over here in Ireland produced 299bhp i cant remember the torque figure but it had basic mods.

2002 WRX Bugeye
Mods
Decat, Green Filter, Walbro, VF35 turbo, sti 8 tmic.

Standard injectors and FPR 299bhp on 95 octane Fuel.

wrxben

iTrader: (1)

some excellent advice for me there chaps, i'll def look at brakes and suspension set up first, one step at a time me thinks, cheers

corradoboy

https://www.scoobynet.com/trader-ann...olls-bars.html

wrxben

iTrader: (1)

just sent the chap a pm, took the filter and dv off today and i must say it feels like it does pull more (poss cos of filter drawing in hot air???), got the gear up for sale now, thanks for the advice and help, much appreciated

corradoboy

With the OE recirc DV you'll find it runs much smoother, especially on gear changes, getting rid of that jerkiness which to some makes it 'feel' fast. Smooth is quickest

wrxben

iTrader: (1)

one quick q, what would be best brake wise for around 270 ish bhp? are the sti front brembos the way to go? not got loads to spend but want to do th job properly (when i eventually get there)

corradoboy

The WRX 4 pots are perfectly adequate, especially if you learn not to use them. On approach to bends ahead, pick a point where a drop of one or even two gears and the resultant engine braking, but NO PEDAL BRAKING, will slow you to the speed you feel comfortable to turn in at, remembering that you must be able to stop in the distance you can see to be clear should there be any unexpected hazard. As confidence grows, increase speed through the bend and out of the apex, I guarantee you your eyes will start opening at how much more speed you can carry when the car is settled and planted without any significant weight transfer. I chose one stretch of road to use repeatedly for a while, building speed and confidence. After 3-4 runs through instead of approaching at maybe 90-100, heavily braking to 60 with a gear change and turning in with the car all unsettled, I ended up approaching at 130-140, lifting and dropping a gear with a blip to ease the downshift down to 110-120, then feathering the throttle in very gradually through to the apex where it can be applied more to slingshot you out, changing back up once the wheel is straight and the car settled. As speed increases however, your observation of all hazards (signs, markings, tell-tales (black lines left by harsh braking, gravel etc), micro-climates (damp under trees etc) and any chance to view the road ahead (down valleys, up hills, through trees etc)) has to improve too. If you get good at this, it will save you thousands on power mods you simply won't need

I put uprated pads in (tried EBC ( ), Mintex and Ferodo), but Pagid or Performance Friction would be where I would look now. Add some Goodridge stainless braided lines and make sure the fluid is good (I used Ferodo DOT5.1, but DOT5 or even 4 will be OK).