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Old May 3, 2009 | 11:12 PM
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Default Piston protruding block

I put a cdb together today, and have found the Piston protrudes the block by around 1.7mm

and on the down stroke the piston skirt hits the Oil Squirter.

The Crank was meant to be a 2.0 billet crank and was bought from TSL in Feb.

I am thinking that it may be a 2.5 crank but am unsure?


The components used were.

2.0 Billet crank. (NEW)
Ths Rods (NEW)
RCMS Omega Pistons (Re-Used)
ACL Race Series Bearings.

here is a Pic of the block with piston sticking out...


very large so link

www.s-o-r.co.uk/uploads/03052009064.jpg

any ideas or suggestions?


If it is a 2.5 then i need some pistons to make it a 2.1 stroker..?


Derek
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Old May 3, 2009 | 11:21 PM
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Hi if you are putting a 2.1 stroker together you need an EJ257 crankshaft and if you are using standard hight pistons you will need MM shorter rods that may be why the pistons are protruding out of the block?
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Old May 3, 2009 | 11:28 PM
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The build was just meant to be a 2.0.

The crank was on ebay as a 2.0 Billet crank.

I called TSL and told them what i was building.. and they told me it would be fine.

But now it was put together the piston protrudes out the block.

I am guessing how far, as i did not have a DTI to hand...
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Old May 3, 2009 | 11:42 PM
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Has the block been skimmed ?
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Old May 3, 2009 | 11:48 PM
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No Not at all.. the block had no work done...

Big ends let go so got new crank, Rods shells etc.
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Old May 4, 2009 | 12:04 AM
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what pistons are you using ?
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Old May 4, 2009 | 12:11 AM
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RCMS Omega Pistons RCM365 high comp.
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Old May 4, 2009 | 12:12 AM
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If your hitting the oil squirter as well as it protruding it can either be crank or pistons.

I'd get measuring

Have you got the standard crank to compare it against?
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Old May 4, 2009 | 12:21 AM
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got 4-5 std cranks... looks like me and the mad scientist will need to rip apart the block.

It cannot be the Pistons, as they wer in the block with the std crank
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Old May 4, 2009 | 12:48 PM
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Does the engine turn through a full 360 degrees ? As there would be an extra 4 mm of throw on the crank.
Are you supposed to machine said piston to suit the deck height ? Thus getting the correct compression.

In the late 70's this was how I did my Imp engines.

dunx

Last edited by dunx; May 4, 2009 at 12:51 PM.
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Old May 4, 2009 | 12:50 PM
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wouldn't explain this though:

and on the down stroke the piston skirt hits the Oil Squirter.
Unless your expected to machine the skirts as well (rather you than me )
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Old May 4, 2009 | 12:55 PM
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I know dazdavies on here had to cut parts of his RCMS piston so it would clear the oil squirter.

Plus the protrusion on that deck face doesn't look good. It could be a 2.5 crank but then your block would need to been machined to accept a rear thrust bearing crank which the 2.5 is.

I think you need to have a good measure up of everything and post the full spec on here.
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Old May 4, 2009 | 01:03 PM
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The engine will turn over Fully with a ratchet on the crank Bolt, but you cannot do it by hand, when it hits the oil squirter's.

I will talk to Olly @ RCMS tomorrow, and get out the DTI and see how much the piston is protruding. before i rip the block apart.
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Old May 4, 2009 | 01:16 PM
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You may need to spot machine the bore squirter mounting points to lower them for clearance.

Mick
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Old May 5, 2009 | 12:35 PM
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Ok People, Spoke to TSL, they say as far as they were aware it was a Std Stroke 2.0 Billet Steel Crank.

However, the stoke has been measured by measuring the distance from the top of the piston at BDC, to the top of the Block.
and the top of the block to the top of the piston at TDC.

And this is 79mm which is the Same Stroke as a 2.5
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Old May 5, 2009 | 02:04 PM
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Mmm! looks like TSL have caused you a lot of aggro., time and expense!

JohnD
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