joz8968

iTrader: (13)

Anyone used a mobile audio fitter in the Leicester (I reside between LE3 and LE9) area, and were very happy with their install?

I just need a head unit substituted over into the normal DIN slot of my 1993 WRX. It's a Sony CDX-GT23 single-CD slot head unit - just need the old OEM one taken out; new CDX-GT23 put in.

Any suggestions of any decent travelling fitters (and their contact details) will be much appreciated...

Thanks.

Syph

Have you considered having a go yourself.

Stereos are quite a simple job. you can get an adapter loom from halfrauds.
it will take longer to unpack the stereo from all of its packaging than to pop it in.

just a thaught. If i was a bit closer i could do it for you.

there might even be another member close to you that may offer????

they are a freindly helpfull bunch!!

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

Yeah, I'm aware of the adaptor looms for about £9.99, where one end is for the car's own loom's multiplug and the other is for the head unit's

How would I know which adaptor loom will be the correct one for a Sony CDX-GT23 head unit ... Or do all of a particular manfacturer's head units have universal multiplugs i.e. do I just get the adaptor loom that reads something along the lines of, "Sony adaptor loom for 1992-2000 Subaru Impreza"?

Syph

that sounds about right. most stereos have a standard din plug now so you only need to mate to the subaru loom. if you go into a store they should point you to the right loom.

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

Sorry, I'm being dumb.

I take it this is the correct ISO adaptor to connect into the car's exisiting loom/plug:-

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/adaptor-SUBARU-Legacy-Impreza-Forester-ISO-lead_W0QQitemZ140298021329QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Ca rs_Parts_Vehicles_Terminals_Cabling_ET?hash=item14 0298021329&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2|6 5%3A15|39%3A1|240%3A1318



...Which then plugs into the head unit's own loom via the black dual-block (power, etc./speakers) ISO connectors:-




Just one question: does anyone know if the Impreza loom's red lead is the ignition... and the yellow is constant power? Or the other way around? This will dictate how I should have the red and yellow leads' bullet terminals connected in the head unit's loom (as can be seen, they're set at default red/red; yellow/yellow at the mo)...

Syph

normally the yellow is ign but the easiest way is to just use a test light. Ithink you should have a go yourself. you shouldnt need to cut or join any wires if you use the adaptor lead.

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

Cheers, I've temporarily swapped those wires over.

I take it I could test the wires by a voltmeter? When the igniton's off and I get 12V on one of the wires, than that one would be constant power, right?

I've just ordered that loom in the top pic to attach to the car's own multiplug, so I will fit it myself. Will I also need one of these DIN cages, too? :-

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Subaru-Impreza-WRX-Car-Stereo-Facia-Fascia-Adaptor-NEW_W0QQitemZ370187213668QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Car sParts_Vehicles_FasciaPlates_SM?hash=item370187213 668&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2|65%3A15| 39%3A1|240%3A1318

(The head unit didn't come with one...)

Syph

You can use a volt meter/multimeter. and you are right battery live will always be on.

you dont always need a cage you can use the screws from the old head unit and screw it into the cage in the centre console but using a cage is easier.

good luck.

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

Cheers for the advice (BTW that pic was of a double-DIN replacement 'cubby' ... but I've seen the cages on eBay for the Sony , so no worries).

Thanks again.

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

Sorry, just a couple of questions...

How easy is it to remove that plastic trim that runs up the sides of the double-DIN area (which prevent the rad/cass from coming out)?

Also, what the best method of extracting the rad/cass player? Do you just pull and slide it out?

500

Err no it isn't

Yellow is permanent live

500

2 screws where the cup holder is and move the back of the gearlever gator and there are 2 screws there, that clips out and then you have 4 screws holding the radio bracket in. use the supplied screws to fix the radio to the bracket, plug the leads in and screw it back together do not use the surround that comes with the radio, you don't need the cage either.

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

Right, so which is permannet live on the IMPREZA then - red or yellow?

Thanks for the other advice 500 - so the aftermarket cage not needed (just screw the sides of the new head unit to the OEM bracketry).

And you mean that rectangular 'finishing trim collar' (that comes with the new head unit) is not required - presumably because there's.no space available to physically fit it, right?

500

YELLOW

no worries, yes, thats what I mean

Yep, that bit won't fit

Syph

my bad

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

No worries Syph - and thanks to both for the info.

Am now very confident in doing it myself.

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

Had the double-DIN centre console out this eveing (trial run - still wating for the ISO adaptor to turn up) lol.

Would you believe it, though?!... The bloody 4 brass-coloured Philips screws that hold the rad/cass to its cage will not budge! - they've been tightened up by the Incredible Hulk, it would seem! AAARGH!!!

Do you reckon a heavy-duty, very long-handled Philips screwdriver will budge them?

Syph

the longer the screw driver the more torque you wil get so..... YES the bigger the better

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

There's always something! ARRRGH!!!...

Got the ISO harness... fitted head unit (screwed into existing cage )... got it working... turns on and off as expected, CD played fine, etc. ... BUT...

...Went to refit everything, then noticed that there was now no power to both the head unit and the OEM Lamco voltmeter and ambient air temp gauges above it (although the gauges'/cigar lighter's green illumination is still working).

I assume I've shorted somewhere and caused a fuse to blow that is common to both those gauges and the head unit(?)

Can someone tell me what's happened and how to rectify it?! If it is a blown fuse, where is it and which one?

(BTW, the harness connector that plugs into the head unit end has its own inbuilt red 10A fuse, and that was still intact).

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

Is there no-one that can help?!

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

Right. Plot thickens...

Got power back to the head unit and gauges - the 15A blue fuse (bottom row; 2nd one in from bulkhead end, in the fusebox by the accelerator) had indeed blown... BUT...

...now a NEW problem!...

...Nothing whatsoever coming from the speakers!!! i.e. with Vol. turned right up, no background hiss (totally silent) on AUX and TUNER (no aerial fitted yet - need DIN to ISO adapter )... and no music from the CD! (they worked fine last night )

Obviously there is no power getting to the speakers. I checked every single 10, 15 & 20A fuse in that footwell fusebox and all are intact. Is there a fuse dedicated to the speakers' loom anyway?

If not, then surely it can only be the ISO speaker harnesses' coupling that has come adfrift (but I did make sure the locking tab was secured ). Oh well, I'll have to check again tonight ...

Anybody know why the speakers have no power to them (regardless of my hypothesising above)? It's driving me nuts now!!!

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

Groan - looks like I have knackered the head unit's amplifier and/or transistors.

When Vol. is on '0' (off) no sound whatsoever.

When Vol. is on '1' (min) to '34' (max) then very faint electrical noise through the speakers... which is the same level, whether at 1, 34, or anywhere inbetween.

To double-check, I disconnected the speaker section of the ISO harness and, as expected, the faint noise disappears - so the speakers are okay... Must be the head unit that's knackered(?).

Anybody agree?


NOTE: However, you can hear faint beeps when pressing buttons - is there a way of resetting/rebooting the CDX-GT23? (there's no little reset recessed hole on the front like you often see).

Syph

I fear you have been a little unlucky, do you have another head unit to try. also did you have the ign on when you were changing the head unit.

Idealy you should dissconnect the battery when you touch the power but to be honest this has never happend to me and I do not diss the battery. not much help to you now but something to bare in mind.

one more thing. are you certain that the stereo was working before you fitted it, it could have been faulty before hand and that may have caused the fuse to blow in the first place.

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

Yes, I re-hooked up the old one and all speakers/volume, etc. working fine.


I fear I did - when putting everything back.


Totally. That''s why I didn't - never been a problem in the past. ... (but deep down, I knew I should have! ).


Yes, when I initailly installed it, the CD was playing fine e.g. all the EQ/tone/fad/bal/vol controls worked perfectly. As I say, it must have 'blown' as I was trying to refit everything - I must have shorted somewhere.

Oh well, off to get a replacement - there's two more on eBay.
..

Thanks for all your help - without it I would have got a fitter in, etc.

Syph

I'm sorry it ended badly for you. hope you have better luck on attempt number two

remember to diss the battery

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

Solid advice - I very much will next time. Once bitten: twice shy, and all that...

At least it makes for a nice clock!

Syph

I should have offered you that advice from the start really shouldnt I

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

Not at all mate - I was totally aware of disconnecting the batt but - being me - I couldn't be bothered. My cavalier attitude really does **** me off sometimes!

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

Well, after blowing the CDX-GT23's transistors, I have replaced the HU with a better CDX-GT616U jobbie - replete with USB port, better EQ, and an in-menu green display toggle option, to match the car's illumination.

Have fitted it and all works beautifully - including an under-the-seat powered PSR-135A sub enclosure... to actually give me some bass! lol

One annoying issue though...

The radio aerial has stopped working (it actually failed when I had the OEM Addzest rad/cass still in, some weeks ago). Obviously, there must be a breakage in the coax... How easy is it to replace the old 15-and-a-half-year-old coax with a length of new stuff? It looks an absolute nightmare to get it fed through from the centre console area and up to the aerial?! Has anybody done it and can give me the procedure?

Thanks in advance.

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

Anyone know how to replace the aerial coax?

Is it a pig of a job?