Where is the ECU? in my 1999 Subaru Impreza 2000 turbo
#1
Where is the ECU? in my 1999 Subaru Impreza 2000 turbo
Hi
I got a 1999 Subaru Impreza 2000 Turbo AWD last week. I love it to bits, but been looking at getting a prodrive ECU for it. To up the power a little. I've seen some on ebay, and they say there plug and play!! I heard the ecu is under the passenger seat, under the carpet. Is this true, and if so, how do i get to it? do i need to take the seat out. Is it that easy to change a ecu, just plug it in?
I got a 1999 Subaru Impreza 2000 Turbo AWD last week. I love it to bits, but been looking at getting a prodrive ECU for it. To up the power a little. I've seen some on ebay, and they say there plug and play!! I heard the ecu is under the passenger seat, under the carpet. Is this true, and if so, how do i get to it? do i need to take the seat out. Is it that easy to change a ecu, just plug it in?
#2
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (13)
Not the seat, but the footwell!
Lift the carpet and you'll see an ally kickplate, held in by about 6 10mm bolts. Remove using a socket set, then youl see the ECU bolted in place by 2 (or 3) more 10mm bolts. Undo to free it, then very carefully pull out the plug loom to the ECU, taking care not disturb/ruptue any of the many tiny I/O wires.
Refitting of the Prodrive one will be a reversal of removal...
Lift the carpet and you'll see an ally kickplate, held in by about 6 10mm bolts. Remove using a socket set, then youl see the ECU bolted in place by 2 (or 3) more 10mm bolts. Undo to free it, then very carefully pull out the plug loom to the ECU, taking care not disturb/ruptue any of the many tiny I/O wires.
Refitting of the Prodrive one will be a reversal of removal...
Last edited by joz8968; 28 March 2009 at 08:12 PM.
#3
Ok, so its not under the seat, but where the front passenger has there feet at the front? Is it easer to lift the carpet? Is i change the ecu to a prodrive ecu, will i notice a difference? I've got a K and N replacement filter and a scooby sport exhaust. Does anyone know if the prodrive ecu will put much strain on the engine?
#4
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (13)
Yes in the area where the passenger's plates of meat rest, lol.
The carpet is held down by about 4 black plastic push fit or quarter-turn retainers - just remove each one, then you can lift the carpet up...
The Prodrive ECU will have slightly raised boost pressure and prob richer fuelling - it won't be a problem.
I'd persoanlly stick with the OEM panel filter in the OEM black plasic filter box, rather than the cone filter. You won't gain much (if anything) - certainly nothing that you'll feel on the road. And it could scale the MAF's voltage output or contaminate its sensitve wire film mesh... which is a VERY BAD thing...
The carpet is held down by about 4 black plastic push fit or quarter-turn retainers - just remove each one, then you can lift the carpet up...
The Prodrive ECU will have slightly raised boost pressure and prob richer fuelling - it won't be a problem.
I'd persoanlly stick with the OEM panel filter in the OEM black plasic filter box, rather than the cone filter. You won't gain much (if anything) - certainly nothing that you'll feel on the road. And it could scale the MAF's voltage output or contaminate its sensitve wire film mesh... which is a VERY BAD thing...
Last edited by joz8968; 28 March 2009 at 08:41 PM.
#5
Thanks for all the info, Would you think it would be worth getting one, as i think i've got about 218bhp at the moment. Do you know what kind of bhp i should go up to? and does it make it have a quicker 0-60 time? I wouldnt bother with an induction kit, prefer just the filter element anyway.
#6
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (13)
Yes, the MY99/00 UK cars have 215bhp (218PS) and 214lb ft as standard.
Basically, the Prodrive's ECU raised boost/fuelling will give you more power/torque, and I think it raises the bhp to 237bhp (240PS) - just like an RB5, or MY93-94 JDM WRX and WRX Type RA saloons!
It'll prob anly knock a tenth or two off the 0-60, so officailly you shold go from about 5.7s to 5.5s lol.... but that's not what it's about. You should feel the car is keener through the gears, esp. in the mid-range, whare it counts on the road. And it'll pull more enthusiastically to the redline.
Basically, the Prodrive's ECU raised boost/fuelling will give you more power/torque, and I think it raises the bhp to 237bhp (240PS) - just like an RB5, or MY93-94 JDM WRX and WRX Type RA saloons!
It'll prob anly knock a tenth or two off the 0-60, so officailly you shold go from about 5.7s to 5.5s lol.... but that's not what it's about. You should feel the car is keener through the gears, esp. in the mid-range, whare it counts on the road. And it'll pull more enthusiastically to the redline.
Last edited by joz8968; 28 March 2009 at 08:56 PM.
#7
Ok cool. Would you say this would be the best way for me to go, or is there something else better? I've seen a few prodrive ecu on ebay, and sound simple to fit. So if fitted as well as my exhaust i should get a good gain? If i get subaru to fit one, i have to buy the whole ppp which cost loads. Is there anywhere else i could buy just the ecu?
Thanks for all your help.
Thanks for all your help.
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#8
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (13)
Your best option is to get your existing ECU remapped with EcuTek - that is, assuning it's defo a MY99 i.e. manufactured from Sep. '98(?). See post # 6 of this thread:-
https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...-help-plz.html
If you were to fit a decat downpipe, Walbro fuel pump, NGK PFR7B plugs and a decent panel filter like a Green, Apexi, K&N or Cosworth, then wth that remap, you'll get near to 300bhp on your OEM v.5/6 TMIC and 440cc injectors - around 60-odd bhp more than the Prodrive ECU and 80-odd up on sandard! The car will be utterly transformed - it's a whopping 35-40 % increase in power/torque after all! - and, importantly, the engine will be 'safe' too.
This is the most cost-effective route to take for the most/optimum bhp/torque/driveability to be gained in one fell swoop/a single remap.
https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...-help-plz.html
If you were to fit a decat downpipe, Walbro fuel pump, NGK PFR7B plugs and a decent panel filter like a Green, Apexi, K&N or Cosworth, then wth that remap, you'll get near to 300bhp on your OEM v.5/6 TMIC and 440cc injectors - around 60-odd bhp more than the Prodrive ECU and 80-odd up on sandard! The car will be utterly transformed - it's a whopping 35-40 % increase in power/torque after all! - and, importantly, the engine will be 'safe' too.
This is the most cost-effective route to take for the most/optimum bhp/torque/driveability to be gained in one fell swoop/a single remap.
Last edited by joz8968; 28 March 2009 at 09:51 PM.
#9
Do you know where i could get all that work done, i got the k&n already. So i can get my existing one done. If i de cat the exhaust, it wont get through mot though, so do you just change it back when due. Does de catting it give quiet abit more power. How much do you think it will cost to re map my ecu mate.
Thanks
Dan
Thanks
Dan
#10
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (13)
Where are you based?
Is it a flat rectangular panel one (that will fit in the OEM airbox)?
Yes, you will - but only have to do it once evry 365 days - well worth it IMHO.
The decatting of the downpipe is the single most thing (aside from a turbo change and, obviously, the raised boost level) that allows the max amount of power to be realised in the remap. if you don't do the decat (or at least fit a good 100-cell sports cat), then you're missing out on a decent wedge of potential bhp/lb ft in the remap.
-Decat d/p £60-100 2nd hand
-PFR7B plugs £20-30 brand new
-Walbro £70-90 brand new (pukka one - NOT a cheap eBay copy!)
-Labour to fit the above 2-3hrs £110-165
-Ecutek licence and 1st remap £630
Basically, it should cost the good side of £1k.
Is it a flat rectangular panel one (that will fit in the OEM airbox)?
The decatting of the downpipe is the single most thing (aside from a turbo change and, obviously, the raised boost level) that allows the max amount of power to be realised in the remap. if you don't do the decat (or at least fit a good 100-cell sports cat), then you're missing out on a decent wedge of potential bhp/lb ft in the remap.
-Decat d/p £60-100 2nd hand
-PFR7B plugs £20-30 brand new
-Walbro £70-90 brand new (pukka one - NOT a cheap eBay copy!)
-Labour to fit the above 2-3hrs £110-165
-Ecutek licence and 1st remap £630
Basically, it should cost the good side of £1k.
Last edited by joz8968; 29 March 2009 at 12:55 PM.
#11
Im in surrey, junction 11 m25. do you know what kind of money it would cost. Thanks for all your advice. I didnt realise how fun it is owning a scooby. Love it. I'm a biker, but this is almost as fun.
#15
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (13)
As eggy has said.
You should possibly see a small to reasonable bhp gain by bunging on a decat but you can't guarantee the A/F ratio is correct, or you may get turbo surge promoting overboost. These things would remain unrectified if not mapped for... and your engine could then become a potential timebomb. In any case, you'll see a BIIIG bhp/lb ft gain if the decat is mapped for, as the boost and fuelling will be raised and the timing advanced to optimum levels.
General rule of thumb for unmappble mods for a turbo car are:-
-OEM-sized panel filter upgrade in the OEM airbox
-Cat-back exhuast sytem i.e. retaining the OEM cat/s
-Upgraded spark plugs
-Upgraded fuel pump.
Anything over and above these mods, you should defo map for IMHO... Or at the very least, double check the open-loop A/F ratios on a dyno, etc...
You should possibly see a small to reasonable bhp gain by bunging on a decat but you can't guarantee the A/F ratio is correct, or you may get turbo surge promoting overboost. These things would remain unrectified if not mapped for... and your engine could then become a potential timebomb. In any case, you'll see a BIIIG bhp/lb ft gain if the decat is mapped for, as the boost and fuelling will be raised and the timing advanced to optimum levels.
General rule of thumb for unmappble mods for a turbo car are:-
-OEM-sized panel filter upgrade in the OEM airbox
-Cat-back exhuast sytem i.e. retaining the OEM cat/s
-Upgraded spark plugs
-Upgraded fuel pump.
Anything over and above these mods, you should defo map for IMHO... Or at the very least, double check the open-loop A/F ratios on a dyno, etc...
Last edited by joz8968; 29 March 2009 at 12:57 PM.
#16
Thanks for the tips will get some spark plugs for it, I've got the k&n panel filter, will start looking into the fuel pump as well. I just wanna give it a little more power, but dont think i'll de cat and re map straight away. I might go for the prodrive ecu if i can find one for a reasonable amount. By doing this, i should see some gain and that all i want. Only had the car a week, and compared to my mg zr 160, this thing feels like a rocket!!!lol Would love to get in a 300bhp one though!!!!
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