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Worth replacing Oil Pump just to be on the safe side?

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Old 21 January 2009, 08:25 PM
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Monky
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Question Worth replacing Oil Pump just to be on the safe side?

Hi all,

On my 1996 Version 3 STi import the oil pressure light stays on for a little second after starting, once it hesitated a little on start up with the light illuminated although I don't get the light when warm only cold (I think).

I keep hearing horry stories of owners oil pumps failing, rather than waiting for this to happen is it worth changing to be on the safe side? I'd rather go to the mission of replacing it now rather than removing the entire engine for a rebuild as these boxers are a pain.

Also when cold I can hear the bottom end bearings make that lovely sound, not crazy loud but I know what it sounds like. When warm it's fine and doesn't make these noises. Using 10w 40 Shell Helix Semi Syn.

Any info appreciated.

M
Old 21 January 2009, 09:50 PM
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rapid.STI
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hi there mate, i have just had the same problem, 4 out of the 5 screws on the rear of the oil pump were loose, 2 of which had wound nearly all the way out! this caused it to fail and then caused the shells to go and wolah bottomend knock! if i were you id get it done. my mate is looking to buy a scoob and ive told him if its got no history get it done along with water pump and timing belt, just for piece of mind. it just cost me short of £800 in parts and im doing all the work myself!(big shout out 2 SILENT_RUNNING for the write up) heres what ive had to get: new acl shells(main and bigend) modified oil pump, RCM 1.6mm head gaskets, re-polished and balanced crank,new head bolts, graham goode timing belt, both main seals, assembly lube,gasket and seal kit

i was qouted £1550 for the bottomend rebuilding, so my answer is YES GET IT DONE
Old 21 January 2009, 10:05 PM
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Monky
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Thanks for the info, mine hasn't failed yet (well obviously I would know) but did you get the same illumination of the oil pressure light for a second? And did you ever have a slight bottom end sound on start up before it went?

May be completely unrelated and it could just be because the car has done 100,000 + miles but I thought maybe when the oil was cold the oil pump was a little weak and wasn't able to get the right pressure up to push the oil round the engine.

Regardless I don't get any knocking noises or bottom end bearing noises when warm only cold. I'm good with spanners but these engines are the biggest pain to get round!

M
Old 21 January 2009, 10:10 PM
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rapid.STI
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yes i had a slight knock on bottomend when cold which i believe plp call piston slap, dont believe this ws related to it failing as there is plp on here that have piston slap but its still going strong also dont be scared of the bulky boxer there not so bad really as i have found.
Old 21 January 2009, 10:17 PM
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Monky
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Yeah it might be actually as they do have forgies as standard but quite different noises, doesn't help as I'm going deaf in my old age! What are the clearances like on stock STi engines? Do they allow room for expansion hence piston slap more so than the WRX engines with non forged pistons?

Going for a drive in a bit will see if it does it when warm for sure and report back. I'm a Toyota man by trade and am used to working on much easier engines, don't get me wrong great cars just I find it's a pain to work on as I don't have Jap hands

Last edited by Monky; 21 January 2009 at 10:20 PM.
Old 22 January 2009, 09:31 AM
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rbaz
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I had a MY97 STI and that had piston slap when cold doesn’t sound good if you don’t know what it is just make sure it does go away once warm.
I put Motul 300v 15w50 oil in and it was a lot quieter and ran higher oil pressure as well.
I would get some gauges for it so you can keep an eye on the oil pressure and if you think its low don’t use it until you have checked the pressure.
I did a group buy on prosport gauges we can still get 10% off them PM me if you are interested in a set

Last edited by rbaz; 22 January 2009 at 09:33 AM.
Old 22 January 2009, 10:15 AM
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dazdavies
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Originally Posted by rapid.STI
hi there mate, i have just had the same problem, 4 out of the 5 screws on the rear of the oil pump were loose, 2 of which had wound nearly all the way out! this caused it to fail and then caused the shells to go and wolah bottomend knock! if i were you id get it done. my mate is looking to buy a scoob and ive told him if its got no history get it done along with water pump and timing belt, just for piece of mind. it just cost me short of £800 in parts and im doing all the work myself!(big shout out 2 SILENT_RUNNING for the write up) heres what ive had to get: new acl shells(main and bigend) modified oil pump, RCM 1.6mm head gaskets, re-polished and balanced crank,new head bolts, graham goode timing belt, both main seals, assembly lube,gasket and seal kit

i was qouted £1550 for the bottomend rebuilding, so my answer is YES GET IT DONE

Do not reuse a crank after big end failure. Polished reground or whatever.

Get a completely new crank otherwise you'll be in the same boat again quick sharp and you will have to spend all that money again + the cost of a new crank.

Last edited by dazdavies; 22 January 2009 at 10:16 AM.
Old 22 January 2009, 10:41 AM
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Monky
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Thanks for the help lads.

Running Shell 10w 40 now and it's a little quiter may go for a 15w 50 so it's nice and viscous on start up and normal temp.

It does go away when warm so it's good ol piston slap. I've got some Greddy gauges left over but do you have a link to the ones you are selling buddy?

Want something that doesn't look out of place, the Greddy are 60mm but do have peak. It's a stockish car so want a stockish look and don't want any gauges on the dash

Thanks,

T
Old 22 January 2009, 12:25 PM
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rbaz
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Here is the link to the original group buy I did https://www.scoobynet.com/group-buys...er-gauges.html
Because of exchange rates etc they are just over £100 Inc postage with the discount
If you have an oil gauge connect it up temporary so you can see what the oil pressure is
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