Dawes AFR and connection of?
20 February 2002, 11:43 PM
#1
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Thought i'd start this before they all arive from Jamie's group buy.
I believe that the online instructions are to connect to the lamda sensor? Is it better to connect to the ecu? Comments please.
Thanks
Paul
I believe that the online instructions are to connect to the lamda sensor? Is it better to connect to the ecu? Comments please.
Thanks
Paul
21 February 2002, 04:07 PM
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ECU better IMHO because easier, no need to cross firewall, no chance of corroding wires in the offensive environment of the engine bay - our 406 recently broke down because of this issue.
23 February 2002, 12:56 AM
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cheers for that guys.
http://www.ravensblade-impreza.com/index1.html
afr in interior shows connection to my99 ecu
http://www.ravensblade-impreza.com/index1.html
afr in interior shows connection to my99 ecu
05 March 2002, 10:56 AM
#5
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quick question, sorry for being lazy and probably dumb 
I take it that the white wire from the dawes afr goes to the ecu red to live and black to earth yes?
Cheers
Paul
I take it that the white wire from the dawes afr goes to the ecu red to live and black to earth yes?
Cheers
Paul
05 March 2002, 01:48 PM
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RTFM
Dunno. I wouldn't presume anything.
I'd be a bit more helpful if I understood your last statement!
It needs (presumably) 12V 0V and signal. if there is a red it is likely to be 12V, black 0V, white signal, but PLEASE check the instructions. I took ground from the sensor ground at the ECU. 12V from the stereo - if I blow that 12V at least I know the culprit - my dodgy ICE install or the AFR.
If you take any old 12V and the fuse goes you might be immobilised.
[Edited by john banks - 3/5/2002 1:54:00 PM]
Dunno. I wouldn't presume anything.
I'd be a bit more helpful if I understood your last statement!
It needs (presumably) 12V 0V and signal. if there is a red it is likely to be 12V, black 0V, white signal, but PLEASE check the instructions. I took ground from the sensor ground at the ECU. 12V from the stereo - if I blow that 12V at least I know the culprit - my dodgy ICE install or the AFR.
If you take any old 12V and the fuse goes you might be immobilised.
[Edited by john banks - 3/5/2002 1:54:00 PM]
05 March 2002, 02:33 PM
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John
I take it that I am alright to just take the power and earth from the cigaret lighter. The Instructions show white to lamda so presumably this can just go to ecu.
Cheers
Paul
I take it that I am alright to just take the power and earth from the cigaret lighter. The Instructions show white to lamda so presumably this can just go to ecu.
Cheers
Paul
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05 March 2002, 02:37 PM
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Sounds fine.
Potentially you could have an offset if you ground distant from the sensor, but there was not one on my car, but I just picked up the ground and lambda signal at the ECU.
Potentially you could have an offset if you ground distant from the sensor, but there was not one on my car, but I just picked up the ground and lambda signal at the ECU.
05 March 2002, 02:49 PM
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hmm, might be a stupid question but which wire from the ecu is ground? Is there lots of them? Remeber I havent looked at it yet so bear with me. I am going to place the sensor in the actual spare switch near the cigaret lighter by driling holes for the lights so my closest earth is there.
05 March 2002, 03:47 PM
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What is so special about the battery? Surely the signal ground is better - that is what you are measuring?
On my car I could not find offsets. Ground it where you like. I know the circuit (since I came up with virtually the same design independently) and it is fine - I have grounded mine at the ciggie lighter, the stereo and the ECU and it always reads the same. It is the relative readings on your car that are important before/after- the sensors are not that accurate open loop anyway.
On my car I could not find offsets. Ground it where you like. I know the circuit (since I came up with virtually the same design independently) and it is fine - I have grounded mine at the ciggie lighter, the stereo and the ECU and it always reads the same. It is the relative readings on your car that are important before/after- the sensors are not that accurate open loop anyway.
05 March 2002, 06:57 PM
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Right its all connected. The scotlocks make quite a nice strip in the insulation actually to solder onto!
I seem to getting the orange light constantly under WOT, which Mr Dawes says is ideal. However that is only true based on what Darren adjusted the voltages to.
Jamie, can you confirm what the afr voltages were set to by Darren? Last I read in a thread it was:
> Red 810-830 mV
> Yellow 830-850 mV
> Green 850-870 mV
> Blue 870-890 mV
If so is 830-850 ideal under WOT? I seem to remember you getting about 860mv John under WOT?
Cheers
Paul
I seem to getting the orange light constantly under WOT, which Mr Dawes says is ideal. However that is only true based on what Darren adjusted the voltages to.
Jamie, can you confirm what the afr voltages were set to by Darren? Last I read in a thread it was:
> Red 810-830 mV
> Yellow 830-850 mV
> Green 850-870 mV
> Blue 870-890 mV
If so is 830-850 ideal under WOT? I seem to remember you getting about 860mv John under WOT?
Cheers
Paul
05 March 2002, 07:14 PM
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thats a bit scary!
I should at this point say that my mods are decat downpipe, and centre and ppp. Somethings not right then. I am not running anything else. i.e dawes, boost controller etc.
Maybe I should try a different ground? Really need to know what each light is set at. Hopefully Jamie will respond shortly.
P.S. Where/What is the official guide to mixtures including volts and CO and what is lean and what is rich? Apologies if you covered this in the original AFR thread, I had a look but cant find anything.
[Edited by paulwadams_my99 - 3/5/2002 7:17:25 PM]
[Edited by paulwadams_my99 - 3/5/2002 7:23:37 PM]
I should at this point say that my mods are decat downpipe, and centre and ppp. Somethings not right then. I am not running anything else. i.e dawes, boost controller etc.
Maybe I should try a different ground? Really need to know what each light is set at. Hopefully Jamie will respond shortly.
P.S. Where/What is the official guide to mixtures including volts and CO and what is lean and what is rich? Apologies if you covered this in the original AFR thread, I had a look but cant find anything.
[Edited by paulwadams_my99 - 3/5/2002 7:17:25 PM]
[Edited by paulwadams_my99 - 3/5/2002 7:23:37 PM]
05 March 2002, 08:24 PM
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Er, you have shown the 2.5 litre engine
You need for the signal pin 21 which is third one along on third row from the top on B136 Blue plug in Link manual.
The ground is pin 30 third from the other end 4th row.
You need for the signal pin 21 which is third one along on third row from the top on B136 Blue plug in Link manual.
The ground is pin 30 third from the other end 4th row.
05 March 2002, 10:02 PM
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Sorry yes, they were but of course Darren dealt with that.
To be honest Ive just got in after a very busy day so I just tried to post something that might help it obviously doesnt, I'll get some more info off Darren as there isn't anything on our sites at the moment because the demand of AFRs has been so high we've had to temporarily suspend orders of them.
To be honest Ive just got in after a very busy day so I just tried to post something that might help it obviously doesnt, I'll get some more info off Darren as there isn't anything on our sites at the moment because the demand of AFRs has been so high we've had to temporarily suspend orders of them.
05 March 2002, 10:31 PM
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The AFR calibration supplied for the Impreza is
1st light (red) .81v - .83v
2nd light (yellow) .83v - .85v
3rd light (green) .85v - .87v
4th light (blue) .87v to limit of O2 sensor
Martin
1st light (red) .81v - .83v
2nd light (yellow) .83v - .85v
3rd light (green) .85v - .87v
4th light (blue) .87v to limit of O2 sensor
Martin