how hard
05 January 2009, 10:06 AM
#1
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: wickford essex
Posts: 605
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
how hard
hey guys want to paint my inlet but a little scared to take it off in case i break or cant remember where bits go any advice on do's and donts whats the best paint that will not flake ;-) 93 classic
05 January 2009, 11:34 AM
#2
Carl Davey, specialist Subaru Impreza parts supply
If you take your time and label up the bits you remove or take photos then there shouldn't be any problem.
Or you could get another inlet manifold paint that and then swap it over.
If you take your time and label up the bits you remove or take photos then there shouldn't be any problem.
Or you could get another inlet manifold paint that and then swap it over.
05 January 2009, 01:02 PM
#3
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Ilkley, Yorkshire
Posts: 377
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I did this last month. Label absolutely everything & take your time. Do not force anything - I did & took a chunk out of one of the arms of the inlet as I was impatient undoing a bolt! WD40 all the bolts the day before you're going to start.
With hindsight & due to them being so cheap, I'd buy a 2nd hand inlet as they only cost around £30 & sometimes come with a spare idle control valve & throttle body if you're lucky (you can get any inlet manifold off a version 1 or 2 pre'97 model to fit yours). Fully dismantle, clean (inside & out), degrease & paint it (several times) & let it cure in a warm place for a few days. This way the whole job can be done in one go when you're ready (use new gaskets when refitting your own TB & ICV onto the newly painted one, not the spares that come with it as you know your ones definately work, or make them out of gasket paper as much cheaper & easy to do). Also, use proper new inlet gaskets when refitting it.
I also found it easier undoing the pas pipes from the reservoir & cable tieing them out of the way but some people work round them.
NOTE: if you've ever considered fitting an oil catch can, removing the charcoal fuel evap canister, fitting inlet manifold spacers and doing a parallel fuel rail set up then now's the time as it's very easy to do with the inlet manifold removed.
With hindsight & due to them being so cheap, I'd buy a 2nd hand inlet as they only cost around £30 & sometimes come with a spare idle control valve & throttle body if you're lucky (you can get any inlet manifold off a version 1 or 2 pre'97 model to fit yours). Fully dismantle, clean (inside & out), degrease & paint it (several times) & let it cure in a warm place for a few days. This way the whole job can be done in one go when you're ready (use new gaskets when refitting your own TB & ICV onto the newly painted one, not the spares that come with it as you know your ones definately work, or make them out of gasket paper as much cheaper & easy to do). Also, use proper new inlet gaskets when refitting it.
I also found it easier undoing the pas pipes from the reservoir & cable tieing them out of the way but some people work round them.
NOTE: if you've ever considered fitting an oil catch can, removing the charcoal fuel evap canister, fitting inlet manifold spacers and doing a parallel fuel rail set up then now's the time as it's very easy to do with the inlet manifold removed.
Last edited by cushti; 05 January 2009 at 01:03 PM.
05 January 2009, 01:50 PM
#4
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: wickford essex
Posts: 605
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I did this last month. Label absolutely everything & take your time. Do not force anything - I did & took a chunk out of one of the arms of the inlet as I was impatient undoing a bolt! WD40 all the bolts the day before you're going to start.
With hindsight & due to them being so cheap, I'd buy a 2nd hand inlet as they only cost around £30 & sometimes come with a spare idle control valve & throttle body if you're lucky (you can get any inlet manifold off a version 1 or 2 pre'97 model to fit yours). Fully dismantle, clean (inside & out), degrease & paint it (several times) & let it cure in a warm place for a few days. This way the whole job can be done in one go when you're ready (use new gaskets when refitting your own TB & ICV onto the newly painted one, not the spares that come with it as you know your ones definately work, or make them out of gasket paper as much cheaper & easy to do). Also, use proper new inlet gaskets when refitting it.
I also found it easier undoing the pas pipes from the reservoir & cable tieing them out of the way but some people work round them.
NOTE: if you've ever considered fitting an oil catch can, removing the charcoal fuel evap canister, fitting inlet manifold spacers and doing a parallel fuel rail set up then now's the time as it's very easy to do with the inlet manifold removed.
With hindsight & due to them being so cheap, I'd buy a 2nd hand inlet as they only cost around £30 & sometimes come with a spare idle control valve & throttle body if you're lucky (you can get any inlet manifold off a version 1 or 2 pre'97 model to fit yours). Fully dismantle, clean (inside & out), degrease & paint it (several times) & let it cure in a warm place for a few days. This way the whole job can be done in one go when you're ready (use new gaskets when refitting your own TB & ICV onto the newly painted one, not the spares that come with it as you know your ones definately work, or make them out of gasket paper as much cheaper & easy to do). Also, use proper new inlet gaskets when refitting it.
I also found it easier undoing the pas pipes from the reservoir & cable tieing them out of the way but some people work round them.
NOTE: if you've ever considered fitting an oil catch can, removing the charcoal fuel evap canister, fitting inlet manifold spacers and doing a parallel fuel rail set up then now's the time as it's very easy to do with the inlet manifold removed.
05 January 2009, 10:17 PM
#7
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: wickford essex
Posts: 605
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Trending Topics
06 January 2009, 10:55 AM
#9
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Ilkley, Yorkshire
Posts: 377
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
First option is about £225 & second option will cost at least twice as much but is worth it in my opinion. The biggest single item cost is the fuel pressure regulator which if new is around £150 (& I wouldn’t be tempted with £25 ones on ebay!) - I was very lucky & got a good 2nd hand SX 15404 for £40. Fuel pressure is set to 2.6bar (or 3bar with vac pipe off):
3m x 8mm fuel hose, fuel pipe clips, 1 x 8mm t-pieces, 1 x SX/Sard/Aeromotive/Fuelab fpr, 1 x fuel rail adaptor, 1-7 bar fuel pressure gauge, pipe cutter (you can just slip the hose over the cut ends but it is best to get the ends flared, like clutch/brake hoses, so the fuel hoses cannot slip off)
3m x 8mm braided fuel hose, 5 x 90 degree -6an hose ends, 5 x straight -6an hose ends, 1 x SX/Sard/Aeromotive or Fuelab fpr, 1 x -6an male t-piece, converted -6an fuel rails (check out Mef on here, Carl Davey or Mocom Racing for the rails), ptfe tape, 1-7 bar fuel pressure gauge
3m x 8mm fuel hose, fuel pipe clips, 1 x 8mm t-pieces, 1 x SX/Sard/Aeromotive/Fuelab fpr, 1 x fuel rail adaptor, 1-7 bar fuel pressure gauge, pipe cutter (you can just slip the hose over the cut ends but it is best to get the ends flared, like clutch/brake hoses, so the fuel hoses cannot slip off)
3m x 8mm braided fuel hose, 5 x 90 degree -6an hose ends, 5 x straight -6an hose ends, 1 x SX/Sard/Aeromotive or Fuelab fpr, 1 x -6an male t-piece, converted -6an fuel rails (check out Mef on here, Carl Davey or Mocom Racing for the rails), ptfe tape, 1-7 bar fuel pressure gauge
09 January 2009, 11:03 AM
#10
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: wickford essex
Posts: 605
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
right had a close up look today of all the pipes and bits and bobes under the bonnet and this looks a little out of my leauge as id be scared about loosing things not putting things in the right places ect there are so many pipes under there i wouldnt know which ones to disconnect which bolts to undo ect but would love to have the confidence to do it 
09 January 2009, 01:58 PM
#14
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: wickford essex
Posts: 605
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
lol i think im gonna pass up it just looks too intense theres a couple of hard pipes i dont like the look of trying to figure out how they come of and a few other dodgey looking hoses lol lol
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
gazzawrx
Non Car Related Items For sale
13
17 October 2015 06:51 PM