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how hard
hey guys want to paint my inlet but a little scared to take it off in case i break or cant remember where bits go any advice on do's and donts whats the best paint that will not flake ;-) 93 classic
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Carl Davey, specialist Subaru Impreza parts supply
If you take your time and label up the bits you remove or take photos then there shouldn't be any problem. Or you could get another inlet manifold paint that and then swap it over. |
I did this last month. Label absolutely everything & take your time. Do not force anything - I did & took a chunk out of one of the arms of the inlet as I was impatient undoing a bolt! WD40 all the bolts the day before you're going to start.
With hindsight & due to them being so cheap, I'd buy a 2nd hand inlet as they only cost around £30 & sometimes come with a spare idle control valve & throttle body if you're lucky (you can get any inlet manifold off a version 1 or 2 pre'97 model to fit yours). Fully dismantle, clean (inside & out), degrease & paint it (several times) & let it cure in a warm place for a few days. This way the whole job can be done in one go when you're ready (use new gaskets when refitting your own TB & ICV onto the newly painted one, not the spares that come with it as you know your ones definately work, or make them out of gasket paper as much cheaper & easy to do). Also, use proper new inlet gaskets when refitting it. I also found it easier undoing the pas pipes from the reservoir & cable tieing them out of the way but some people work round them. NOTE: if you've ever considered fitting an oil catch can, removing the charcoal fuel evap canister, fitting inlet manifold spacers and doing a parallel fuel rail set up then now's the time as it's very easy to do with the inlet manifold removed. |
Originally Posted by cushti
(Post 8398230)
I did this last month. Label absolutely everything & take your time. Do not force anything - I did & took a chunk out of one of the arms of the inlet as I was impatient undoing a bolt! WD40 all the bolts the day before you're going to start.
With hindsight & due to them being so cheap, I'd buy a 2nd hand inlet as they only cost around £30 & sometimes come with a spare idle control valve & throttle body if you're lucky (you can get any inlet manifold off a version 1 or 2 pre'97 model to fit yours). Fully dismantle, clean (inside & out), degrease & paint it (several times) & let it cure in a warm place for a few days. This way the whole job can be done in one go when you're ready (use new gaskets when refitting your own TB & ICV onto the newly painted one, not the spares that come with it as you know your ones definately work, or make them out of gasket paper as much cheaper & easy to do). Also, use proper new inlet gaskets when refitting it. I also found it easier undoing the pas pipes from the reservoir & cable tieing them out of the way but some people work round them. NOTE: if you've ever considered fitting an oil catch can, removing the charcoal fuel evap canister, fitting inlet manifold spacers and doing a parallel fuel rail set up then now's the time as it's very easy to do with the inlet manifold removed. |
parallel rail set up what is this and what do you get out of doin it
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Basically it will ensure that enough fuel gets to the cylinders as the standard rail can leave cylinder 3 short of fuel and that's not good as no. 3 cylinder is right next to the turbo.
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Originally Posted by myblackwrx
(Post 8400008)
Basically it will ensure that enough fuel gets to the cylinders as the standard rail can leave cylinder 3 short of fuel and that's not good as no. 3 cylinder is right next to the turbo.
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First option is about £225 & second option will cost at least twice as much but is worth it in my opinion. The biggest single item cost is the fuel pressure regulator which if new is around £150 (& I wouldn’t be tempted with £25 ones on ebay!) - I was very lucky & got a good 2nd hand SX 15404 for £40. Fuel pressure is set to 2.6bar (or 3bar with vac pipe off):
3m x 8mm fuel hose, fuel pipe clips, 1 x 8mm t-pieces, 1 x SX/Sard/Aeromotive/Fuelab fpr, 1 x fuel rail adaptor, 1-7 bar fuel pressure gauge, pipe cutter (you can just slip the hose over the cut ends but it is best to get the ends flared, like clutch/brake hoses, so the fuel hoses cannot slip off) 3m x 8mm braided fuel hose, 5 x 90 degree -6an hose ends, 5 x straight -6an hose ends, 1 x SX/Sard/Aeromotive or Fuelab fpr, 1 x -6an male t-piece, converted -6an fuel rails (check out Mef on here, Carl Davey or Mocom Racing for the rails), ptfe tape, 1-7 bar fuel pressure gauge |
right had a close up look today of all the pipes and bits and bobes under the bonnet and this looks a little out of my leauge as id be scared about loosing things not putting things in the right places ect there are so many pipes under there i wouldnt know which ones to disconnect which bolts to undo ect but would love to have the confidence to do it :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:
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Use a digital camera. A picture is worth a thousand words.
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hey fella your an essex boy fancy lending a hand got a few beers in the fridge ;-)
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Sorry mate, I've not done mine yet. And I've been driving about with a stereo for 4 months cos I'm fully booked up with the missus for some DIY.
Just go for it. If you get stuck all the info is available on here. Just keep close to a PC :thumb: |
lol i think im gonna pass up it just looks too intense theres a couple of hard pipes i dont like the look of trying to figure out how they come of and a few other dodgey looking hoses lol lol
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