High Biting Point - Clutch worn out??
16 December 2008, 12:53 PM
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High Biting Point - Clutch worn out??
hey guys
The clutch biting point on my 2001 JDM STI is at the very top of the pedals travel (as in just before lifting your foot off the pedal).
Would this be a sign that the clutch is very worn?
Car has done 45k and as far as i know is on its original clutch.
Doesnt seem to slip or anything, just seems high.
Many thanks to any replies.
cheers
mat
The clutch biting point on my 2001 JDM STI is at the very top of the pedals travel (as in just before lifting your foot off the pedal).
Would this be a sign that the clutch is very worn?
Car has done 45k and as far as i know is on its original clutch.
Doesnt seem to slip or anything, just seems high.
Many thanks to any replies.
cheers
mat
17 December 2008, 12:10 PM
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got told if the top up resevoir is full and looking mucky and the pedal is at the top then it's time to start shopping for a new clutch.apparently, as the clutch wears the fluid fills the expansion bottle(it's only what i was told and mines slipping as well so it's booked in for monday)
18 December 2008, 10:58 AM
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I have a 2001 jdm sti and when I got it with 30k on the clock I thought the clutch was 3/4 worn because the pedal was high. I was comparing it to my previous car, a 1998 sti, that had an uprated exedy clutch and had done 10k miles since fitting. The old car bite point was a lot lower.
I used the car until about 80k, mostly motorway miles, on the same clutch when it started slipping at 1 bar boost. I had a new exedy sports clutch fitted with a new flywheel. The pedal was exactly the same, except stiffer and the bite was more of an on/off switch. It has since settled down, the bite is still near the top but it is now easier to depress and doesn't have the on/off feeling. It took a long time to settle down though and I used to hate it, judder from the lights or when reversing, but now it's fine. The bite is still in the same place though.
I read somewhere that it may be possible to adjust the height of the pedal so there is less movement before the bite but haven't looked at it so couldn't say for certain.
I would say that if your clutch is working fine, not slipping or anything then you might as well leave it and see if you can have the pedal adjusted a bit. Cost about £800 all in to have mine replaced, although a standard spec one would have been a bit cheaper, and mine also had a flywheel.
The STI is 6 speed and has a bigger diameter clutch than the 5 speed models and earlier cars so comparing to a classic isn't really like for like.
Hope this helps
Ken
I used the car until about 80k, mostly motorway miles, on the same clutch when it started slipping at 1 bar boost. I had a new exedy sports clutch fitted with a new flywheel. The pedal was exactly the same, except stiffer and the bite was more of an on/off switch. It has since settled down, the bite is still near the top but it is now easier to depress and doesn't have the on/off feeling. It took a long time to settle down though and I used to hate it, judder from the lights or when reversing, but now it's fine. The bite is still in the same place though.
I read somewhere that it may be possible to adjust the height of the pedal so there is less movement before the bite but haven't looked at it so couldn't say for certain.
I would say that if your clutch is working fine, not slipping or anything then you might as well leave it and see if you can have the pedal adjusted a bit. Cost about £800 all in to have mine replaced, although a standard spec one would have been a bit cheaper, and mine also had a flywheel.
The STI is 6 speed and has a bigger diameter clutch than the 5 speed models and earlier cars so comparing to a classic isn't really like for like.
Hope this helps
Ken
19 December 2008, 09:25 AM
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good stuff Ken.
I think i will see how mine goes then, as said, its not slipping or anything.
Got a track day at Brands in January, so that should give it a good test!! lol
I think i will see how mine goes then, as said, its not slipping or anything.
Got a track day at Brands in January, so that should give it a good test!! lol
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19 December 2008, 10:37 AM
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Hi all,
What you are talking about with the pedal heights only really applies to older style clutches with mechanical linkages and cables etc, although it does affect the pedal height to a small degree, it's not as pronounced in the fluid style set ups. Also the fluid level is not a good way to check either, as some one could have adjusted the level. Although if it's murky it probably needs changing.
The way that I assess my clutch, and this goes for most vehicles, is to take vehicle for a drive, get all nice and warm, park on level ground, apply the hand brake, put in a high gear, start in top, bring up the rev's, just above idle, lets say, a fast idle, don't get carried away, the idea is not to damaged anything, very slowly release the clutch, you will start to feel friction point, keep going until you have fully released the cluch, the car should stall.
This is a good thing, this means that the cluch has enough holding pressure to try and drive the wheels, even though the handbrake is applied, and the engine is running.
If on the other hand you find that the engine keeps driving, this is due to the fact that, the friction material in the clutch is virtualy worn out, or the pressure plate has lost some of it's clamping capacity. Bent fingers etc. Over heating the clutch, or riding it hard can affect this to.
If you do find that the clutch slips in top, don't panick, carry out the same process in each gear getting lower each time, down to first. Obviously, if the car slips whilst doing it in first and second, you have a problem.
Hope this helps a little.
Matt.
What you are talking about with the pedal heights only really applies to older style clutches with mechanical linkages and cables etc, although it does affect the pedal height to a small degree, it's not as pronounced in the fluid style set ups. Also the fluid level is not a good way to check either, as some one could have adjusted the level. Although if it's murky it probably needs changing.
The way that I assess my clutch, and this goes for most vehicles, is to take vehicle for a drive, get all nice and warm, park on level ground, apply the hand brake, put in a high gear, start in top, bring up the rev's, just above idle, lets say, a fast idle, don't get carried away, the idea is not to damaged anything, very slowly release the clutch, you will start to feel friction point, keep going until you have fully released the cluch, the car should stall.
This is a good thing, this means that the cluch has enough holding pressure to try and drive the wheels, even though the handbrake is applied, and the engine is running.
If on the other hand you find that the engine keeps driving, this is due to the fact that, the friction material in the clutch is virtualy worn out, or the pressure plate has lost some of it's clamping capacity. Bent fingers etc. Over heating the clutch, or riding it hard can affect this to.
If you do find that the clutch slips in top, don't panick, carry out the same process in each gear getting lower each time, down to first. Obviously, if the car slips whilst doing it in first and second, you have a problem.
Hope this helps a little.
Matt.
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