IainMilford

iTrader: (15)

... on standard wrx internals??

my circumstance may be changing which means i wont be using the scoob to commute so it could become my proper weekend toy

GlesgaKiss

AndyForrestPerformance

Just find your car in the menu down the left hand side for a rough idea of what can be done.


Alan

IainMilford

iTrader: (15)

thanks Alan

IainMilford

iTrader: (15)

according to his guide I could go to around 390bhp before the transmission / internals moan about it .... cool

jaytc2003

iTrader: (1)

if you are in a position to use it as a weekend toy, then I take it comforts arent a priority.
If so you could keep the power down, but strip the weight from the car, throw in a few choice handling mods and decent brakes and you will have a very quick point to point car

IainMilford

iTrader: (15)

thanks jay you're absolutely right. In fact next on the list are a set of tein s tech springs, front and rear ARBs, anti lift kit and a geo set up.

I love this scooby stuff!

Steve_PPP

iTrader: (3)

a chap local to me is running a Bug WRX with standard internals and he made 401bhp at a recent rolling road day

I guess he just doesn't go to hard on the gearbox in 1st/2nd!

Mrchips

iTrader: (7)

Are you refering to CJ by any chance?

maydew

iTrader: (9)

andy f 20g sti pink injectors,front mount,ngk pfr7b plugs,tgv delete with Kakumei GT Spec Headers & Up-pipe from flat four online .2.5 full decat remap. done this too mine and my mates wrx 2003 and the torque of the car is a1 for a road car anymore and i dont think it would make a good road car in my opinion.....one thing we did do when we changed the clutch was modified the bell housing on the box to accept the 6 speed bigger clutch and flywheel.but as a guide mate stick to the above and u wont be disappointed

Steve_PPP

iTrader: (3)

Yep. Not sure if he's on here

wiley

iTrader: (63)

looking to get 350bhp until the clutch goes

wiley

IainMilford

iTrader: (15)

^^^^ currently around 330 bhp with no issues from the clutch! in fact on a dry but not very grippy road I have lit up all four wheels!!

IainMilford

iTrader: (15)

thanks for the replies guys. before I do any of this the suspension needs some attention

are you referring to a 2.5 bore exhaust, or a 2.5 rebuild??

stupid question time - what is a tgv delete??

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

TGV = Tumble Generator Valve.

Haven't got a clue where this is/what it does but, when removed, it apparently makes the engine run smoother

Someone will be along soon to fill you in...

jaytc2003

iTrader: (1)

I would still stick with lightening the car, I mean how many other ways can you increase the performance and actually make money (sell interior )

maydew

iTrader: (9)

yep 2.5in exhaust
also i would get a pro drive 3 port boost solonoid if u dont have one

as for the tgv valves have a read through this
How To: DIY TGV Deletes - NASIOC

maydew

iTrader: (9)

i see u already have the sti intercooler so keep that,as far as suspension the apex coilovers which i am running at the min and rate them or prodrive lowering spring will be plenty,but my advice is before u make the car go faster before anythin u should make sure you can stop,sti gold brembo fronts with brembo pads/groved disc are a must atleast

IainMilford

iTrader: (15)

thanks maydew, lets just say brakes are on the list, wont be necessary until I get onto the track in earnest, on the road I always slow down well before any corner because you can never trust what is coming the other way

I will def upgrade pads and discs as soon as needed, just cant justify spending big money there just now

sorry for another daft question but what is the benefit of a three port boost solenoid?

trevsjwood

iTrader: (2)

How do you convince ur wife you love her more than the scooby mate I really struggle with this one

weeebell

iTrader: (1)

You would need to spend more money on her than you do on your car.

You cant do both, not financially viable, so the only way you could spend the kind of money on your wife that we do on our cars is plastic surgery. Then she'd look like a monster. I'd rather have a monster of a car than a monster of a wife.

IainMilford

iTrader: (15)

thats a tough one

IainMilford

iTrader: (15)

looks like a serious job that, better wait until my car lives in the garage before I attempt that. still not sure what they are or do .... in fact I didn't even know I had em until yesterday

maydew

iTrader: (9)

i am led to believe they help with the emission on cold start up so are only in use few minutes of the day and for the rest of the time are restricting by how much is very debatable,it looks harder than it is,as long as your handy with the spanners it dont take long to do it.i did leave the shaft in place and just took away the brass butter flies so the ecu still thinks there in place

as for the brakes,you will be shocked by how that little extra power will push the brakes and how fast they will fade,u will accelerating faster and using the brakes alot more u will be surpised even in road use,better brakes make a faster car, as for stripping the car to make it lighter you would have to seriously gut it to gain anythin which would spoil the car

Adam K

Brakes! Seriously.
You already have 330bhp, so taking care of the rest of the car is long due :-)
Move the battery to the trunk. (Cheap!)
cage/rollbar (will do as much as all other stiffening jobs together, not to talk about safety).
Coilovers. (half of the gain will come with a cage. :-) )

IainMilford

iTrader: (15)

Brakes, understood. They will be upgraded before I go for more power. How many £££'s are we talking about?? I was going to upgrade the discs and pads as soon as they are due anyhow, just havn't got £1500 to spend on new brake calipers right now.

As for stripping the car I'm not so sure. I understand the gains to be made but I'm not going down the roll cage/ stripped out rally/track car route at the moment. I could always remove them when I take the car onto a track, just not sure the gains are worth it for the road.

Adam K

Not stripped :-)
http://www.impreza.nu/ssi2/expo/albu...agonalstag.jpg
http://www.impreza.nu/ssi2/expo/albu...01/bak_del.jpg

www.goodspeedbrakes.co.uk
Sells big disc conversions for subaru 4-pots, which are good enough in theselves as I understand.
Subaru Impreza 335mm Brake Upgrade Kit - Using Mintex 1144 or Ferodo DS2500 Pads

maydew

iTrader: (9)

go for some gold sti brembos,more than up to the job mate,with some genuine brembo pads and i use some groved discs from this place and have never had any problems stoppingxspec.co.uk

maydew

iTrader: (9)

on our roads(round by me anyway lol) mate you can stiffen the car up too much and will just make the car skip and jump hence making it unsafe, i think newage sti shocks with pro drive lowering springs or coilovers with 5.4 spring rate is just right on our roads with standard anti roll bars just with uprated drop links

Adam K

Having the chassi flex *can't* be the right way to good handling!
For one thing your wheel geometry will distort under cornering.
If the car skips when 'too' stiff, that means soften up your settings (and somebody with better knowledge on suspension than me can answer in what way...)
I'd say adjustable coilovers (coming to my car when funds allow...)
IMHO :-)

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

Adam, you're totally right. Simply put, the stiffer a chassis can be made, the better the handling. Look at F1 cars where they pretty much rely on the 'give' in the tyres for their 'suspension' - the springs and dampers are that firm . Also, what's the first thing done to a race/rally car ?... The bare shell has a substantial rollcage put in, before anything else.

Obviously, F1 type suspension is far too extreme for road cars on public roads (some semblance of comfort comes into the equation for even the most diehard petrolhead ), hence why we have a somewhat softer set-up lol.

Basically the idea is to make the chassis as practcally stiff as poss for the intended use. The spring and damper rates are simply to keep all 4 tyres on the road surface as much/effectively as possible (they also have a secondary role by way of flatter cornering)... But... that's the primary job of the geometry setup e.g. castor, camber, toe, etc. to tailor the car to one's own preferred handling traits, as best as the components will allow.

This is why stiffer ARB's, solid drop links, ALK, camber bolts, etc. all work so well in the influence of the handling.