IainMilford

iTrader: (15)

I understand what you are saying but for now, uprated springs, ARB's and strust braces will have to do, along with a full geo setup

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

Iain, unless you have horribly mismatched damper and spring rates, or your springs and/or dampers are totally shot, then I wouldn't worry about new springs (and/or dampers)?

You'll be stunned by the difference just ARB's and drop links make to the handling - the front end will positively dive into the corner and you'll be able to get on the power again just before/at the apex and drive through onto the next straight, rather than having to wait, wait, wait, for the front end to finish washing wide/understeering. Then, depending on actually how large (stiff) you go for the rear ARB, will depend on how much 'help' - i.e degree of oversteer lol - you'll get from the rear (very much a personal thing, of course )

IainMilford

iTrader: (15)

^^^ sounds good!

maydew

iTrader: (9)

i do run coilovers that have had a 4 wheel alignment running a 5,4 spring rate and am running 370-380 bhp you cannot compare the handling of a classic to a newage as they are a stiffer shell,my car doesnt skip/jump but would do if i stiffened the rears up too much,unless the guy who started this thread intends to only use the car on a track then he really does need to be carefull how hard/stiff he makes the car else it will spoil it, i have my suspension set up slightly harder than the standard sti suspension which still gives comefort and tight handling without the need for uprated arb roll cages which in my opinion is just ott for a road car..... classic are a different story as there is more flex within the body,otherwise go fit hard coil overs with 8.4 spring rate bigger arb, roll cages solid drop links and tell me the car handles great on the road cos you made it as stiff as possible

NXG

With the mods you have you're close to the reliable limit of the standard WRX gearbox already.

I agree with the general consensus on here; reduce weight and improve handling. It'll make for a quicker A2B car without putting further stress on existing standard parts.

BTW, start saving now for an engine rebuild and an STI gearbox...

IainMilford

iTrader: (15)

Hi everyone, thanks for all the replies and advice. As you may have worked out this is the first performance car that I've owned, although having raced RC cars for 15 years I understand the fundamentals of car setup all beit on a smaller scale. I dont want to make my car so stiff it is uncomfortable on the road, but I do want to improve the handling to make it more nimble, less understeery etc. As I've said at this stage I'm not going for a full strip out, roll cage etc as I dont think I'll see the benefits, and I will be using the car for trips out with the missus so need to retain some comfort. I suppose I could remove rear seats etc for a trip to the track and put them back in afterwards.

I'm aiming for a car that will be the best of both worlds for track days and weekend trips. You've all suggested better brakes which I agree with, and some choice handling mods. Then the power. It will all have to get done bit by bit though, hence why I'll upgrade the pads and discs when these wear out etc, but before I venture onto a track.

I need to get the most out of my car with the power I've got before going for more greedy

IainMilford

iTrader: (15)

why do you suggest 2.5" bore?? just interested to hear as I've heard many stories about how much power they can handle before you have to go to a 3"

also do you think I could expect much more of a gain by going to a decat downpipe from my prodrive cat at the moment??

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

Read APIDavid's explanation in post # 23...

https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...ore-power.html

IainMilford

iTrader: (15)

thanks!

Monky

Yeah I fitted a 3 inch system to my standard Sti wagon V3 (3 - 2.5inch downpipe then 3 inch from there) and noticed quite boggy performance, increased lag and less response. Going to get a 2.5 inch downpipe-back system and sell the 3 inch to improve the car.

maydew

iTrader: (9)

people get the impression that bigger/louder is better but not always the case and in my opinion ott,keep it simple buy what works right for the car and keep it simple,you will make a better road car.i am running a 2.5 bore with the mods i suggested to you without any issues.


and yes sell the prodrive cat and get a full de cat system ,if u intend on keeping the standard headers get a sti decatted up pipe too.

my list for you would be
1. apex coilovers in the group buy
2. andy f td05 18g or 20g
3. prodrive 3 port boost solonoid
4. whiteline drop links
5. brembo gold calipers front
6. full decat
7. ngk 7 plugs
8. zen/andy f remap
9. ported or Kakumei GT Spec Headers & Up-pipe Impreza from flat 4 online
10. uprated panel filter
11. uprated clutch once you have killed yours lol
and you will get a fast road with great handling and plenty of torque

billsandhu

Why would you want to sell a prodrive cat? They are an excellent bit of kit, and well upto the job. The rest of exhaust choice will depend on how far you may want to go in the future.

Suspension choice is very subjective, and ultimately well depend on intended use and how far you are willing to push the car. Lots of people bung on coilovers, and the hard/stiff feeling gives the belief of a well handling car, but unless you have pushed it and found areas where you want improvement, its best to take your time and speak to experts on setups etc.

Again with brakes, you can spend lots of money when it isnt always needed. The standard subaru 4 pot brakes are very good when they are complimented with good disc/pad set up. You may need to upgrade of you are reaching limits of the setup. Brembo setup will be an upgrade, but when you factor in the cost, alternatives maybe better make more financial sense.

maydew

iTrader: (9)

he is just after a good fast road car which he can still take the misses/wife out on the weekend and be comfortable.as for the prodrive cat is it a very good unit but if he sells it,it will contribute to others parts everythin has its limits prodrive cat... 2.5 in system etc etc

as for the brakes yes they are good but the newage is a heavier car to begin with,if you are pushing for more power why skimp on the most important part of the car

billsandhu

Hence the post on not going wild on parts not needed

maydew

iTrader: (9)

you did already have alot of the parts in place which you have slowly modded your car over the years.if you was to go out and spend everythin you have spent on your car in one day imagine the final bill. ..... bill lol

DaveBeck

iTrader: (12)

From my experience you should be ok with a 360/330 car. ive got 361/322 and using it as a daily driver. view my scoob for full spec and handling/brakes.
ive done 2 track sessions and got a 3rd on thursday.
ive not changed my clutch since i got her july07 and on going through reciepts i got with the car(had everything including windscreen wipers) it doesnt look like its been changed so still using the standard one on 87000.

Its how you drive it mate, give it constant hell and its going to give up.

CJ is running 401 on standard box and internals and is a member on here. my mentor

MaDaSS

You can read my spec in my 'plus profile', any queries i will gladly answer
By far som of my best money went on Bob Rawle, who got my car where it should have been years ago.

maydew

iTrader: (9)

imagine your spec has made a very good/fast road car,headers look mint

MaDaSS

It is a good car, but i am a moaning old git about anything to do with my car! LOL. (As a lot of my posts on here in the past will show
My only recent complaint, and this is how the car's are, is there is no torque at low revs. As an example, in 4th at 30mph is a waste of time, the car just feels like it is labouring all the time. So, a slight hill, cameras, 30mph, 4th gear just does not work, it has to be 3rd. That is my only complaint.
Yes it is fast (when i actually use it), and still makes me smile, but now i am moaning about the suspension! Haha. I have too many speed humps near me and family now that i could do with coilovers to get the ride height lifted again, but still have the handling. Or maybe, just put the original springs back on and fit new arb's maybe? I dunno, i dont know enough about cars to know.
(It doesn't help me with my desire to own a new M3 or M5, of which either i will only be able to dream about!)

BIG FUD

iTrader: (84)

In my exsperience sell your car buy one all ready done save 1000s

DaveBeck

iTrader: (12)

never a truer word spoken but you miss out on saying all the work is your own