Problem With New Engine
#1
Problem With New Engine
Have a small problem with the new engine we've just put in my car.
Once fitted we used a ratchet on the crank to turn it over a few times, and all was fine.
Have just started it for the first time, and it now seems to be partly seized.
We have used the ratchet on the crank again, and the crank will turn 1/2 to 3/4 of a rotation then not budge. It will go back in the other direction though, but will then stick going that way aswell.
Fingers crossed the timing is out slightly.
What else could cause this to happen?
Once fitted we used a ratchet on the crank to turn it over a few times, and all was fine.
Have just started it for the first time, and it now seems to be partly seized.
We have used the ratchet on the crank again, and the crank will turn 1/2 to 3/4 of a rotation then not budge. It will go back in the other direction though, but will then stick going that way aswell.
Fingers crossed the timing is out slightly.
What else could cause this to happen?
#2
Hi Gary
DazDavies here. (long story)
I had this on my last rebuild. It was caused by a leaking injector o ring. This resulted in fuel filling one of the cylinders thus causing hydrolock to the engine.
Take all of the plugs out and crank the engine by hand (ratchet on crank nut)
If the engine has been hydrolocked fuel will be spat out of the affected cylinder.
I had to take my tubular manifold off as that had filled with fuel too.
. of course this is just a theory but the symptoms you describe are identical.
DazDavies here. (long story)
I had this on my last rebuild. It was caused by a leaking injector o ring. This resulted in fuel filling one of the cylinders thus causing hydrolock to the engine.
Take all of the plugs out and crank the engine by hand (ratchet on crank nut)
If the engine has been hydrolocked fuel will be spat out of the affected cylinder.
I had to take my tubular manifold off as that had filled with fuel too.
. of course this is just a theory but the symptoms you describe are identical.
#5
#6
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agree, the timing belt tensioner is only designed to keep the belt tight in the correct direction.. but unlikely when using a wratchet but worth checking..
other classic is leaving it in gear on a trailer and the car bounces about and the belt jumps.
As Daz said take the plugs out and disconnect the injectors and try it.. if you then use the key just get the coil packs way out the way..
Simon
other classic is leaving it in gear on a trailer and the car bounces about and the belt jumps.
As Daz said take the plugs out and disconnect the injectors and try it.. if you then use the key just get the coil packs way out the way..
Simon
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when i was rebuilding my engine i was putting the cambelt on and when it was all in place turned it over but didnt think about rotation and looked as i was doing it and jumped a couple of teeth on the cambelt this was on my 96 but on latter models they have a guide over the top of the crank pullly to stop it jumpng teeth
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#8
exactly as Daz says I had an identical prob to yours it was a leaking injector caused by a buggerd o ring in the injecter seat,
Last edited by Badbird; 16 October 2008 at 10:55 PM.
#11
Looking back, after the old engine started knocking it was ok starting from hot (loading onto the flatbed after we realised what had happened) but once the car was cold it didn't want to start again, so not sure if that has something to do with it.
Will swap the coilpacks around tomorrow to see if that makes a difference.
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