fault 44
#4
I have checked the pipes round the boost solenoid and they all seem fine and the boost control solenoid is ticking when i put it in diagnostic mode, so i assume it is working fine.
I will probably get a new pipe and take the bleed valve off, maybe that will get rid of the fault code.
Thanks for the info on the sale but i think i will stick with the one i have cheers
One more question does anyone know if theres many reasons my car is idleing around 800rpm, it does'nt affect the driving its just abit annoying but maybe im just being to picky.
Thanks for the quick replys
I will probably get a new pipe and take the bleed valve off, maybe that will get rid of the fault code.
Thanks for the info on the sale but i think i will stick with the one i have cheers
One more question does anyone know if theres many reasons my car is idleing around 800rpm, it does'nt affect the driving its just abit annoying but maybe im just being to picky.
Thanks for the quick replys
#5
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Out of interest, and I'm still learning here, how does the ecu know there is problem with the boost control solenoid's plumbing?
I thought it would have been some sort of electrical feedback from the solenoid itself, ie high current meaning it's stuck, no current draw meaning the power is open circuit or the internal coil o/c (unplugged) or even internal sensors showing movement of the solenoid itself?
I thought it would have been some sort of electrical feedback from the solenoid itself, ie high current meaning it's stuck, no current draw meaning the power is open circuit or the internal coil o/c (unplugged) or even internal sensors showing movement of the solenoid itself?
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