lightened flyweel any good?
15 August 2008, 01:44 PM
#2
This topic has been done to death many times before.
I am a big fan of lightweight forged flywheels. Would never go back to heavy cast OE ones.
I am a big fan of lightweight forged flywheels. Would never go back to heavy cast OE ones.
Had a medium weight 6kg ish if i remember right from zen when i had a new clutch fitted-would never go bk to a std flywheel now,car accelerates noticeably quicker and none of the stalling an revs related problems mentioned earlier in this thread-ticks over like any other uk turbo-you`d never know any different-imo as much difference to drive as decatting one even without going really light.
Last edited by Aztec Performance Ltd; 15 August 2008 at 02:16 PM.
16 August 2008, 10:02 AM
#3
Somehow I knew Bob would post on here. 
Can we have the information promised, about three weeks ago, on the previous thread please. Assembly weights, ie clutch and flywheel and also the flywheel material(s).
The flywheel on its own will cost £200 to £400 or thereabouts plus the cost of fitting. Upwards of a further £150 or do it yourself. On its own, the cost of the mod is probably not cost effective but you may wish to consider it when having a clutch changed or the gearbox removed for some other reason.
The lighter flywheel reduces rotating mass and when you blip the throttle in neutral you may notice the engine is slightly freer to rev. Some people claim you will feel improved acceleration but as any improvement is relatively small, I think you will need a more sensative ar5eometer than I have to detect any improvement.
The O/E flywheel on the Classic is either 12.2 or 10.4 kg subject to model. Going less than 7-8kg can make clutch control more difficult, particularly on launches and on some cars with lighter flywheels, both trickling along in heavy traffic and tickover suffers.
When changing your clutch, you may need a replacement flywheel if yours is badly worn. An alternative to a new flywheel is an O/E item surface ground but balancing is important. This is a very cost effective way of avoiding clutch judder.
As a performance mod, expenditure on a new flywheel will be towards the bottom of your BHP/£ spent list.
Can we have the information promised, about three weeks ago, on the previous thread please. Assembly weights, ie clutch and flywheel and also the flywheel material(s).
The flywheel on its own will cost £200 to £400 or thereabouts plus the cost of fitting. Upwards of a further £150 or do it yourself. On its own, the cost of the mod is probably not cost effective but you may wish to consider it when having a clutch changed or the gearbox removed for some other reason.
The lighter flywheel reduces rotating mass and when you blip the throttle in neutral you may notice the engine is slightly freer to rev. Some people claim you will feel improved acceleration but as any improvement is relatively small, I think you will need a more sensative ar5eometer than I have to detect any improvement.
The O/E flywheel on the Classic is either 12.2 or 10.4 kg subject to model. Going less than 7-8kg can make clutch control more difficult, particularly on launches and on some cars with lighter flywheels, both trickling along in heavy traffic and tickover suffers.
When changing your clutch, you may need a replacement flywheel if yours is badly worn. An alternative to a new flywheel is an O/E item surface ground but balancing is important. This is a very cost effective way of avoiding clutch judder.
As a performance mod, expenditure on a new flywheel will be towards the bottom of your BHP/£ spent list.
17 August 2008, 01:48 PM
#4
Scooby Regular
I had one from API along with one of their Exedy clutches when the old (AP organic) clutch and standard gearbox failed. I'd never go back. The difference, I found, was noticeable straight away. It's hard to quantify but it just feels much nicer to drive. I wouldn't have done it all for the sake of it, but while my clutch was out anyway, it made sense to have it all fitted.
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