I'm considering replacing the standard ECU in my 1996 Sti2 jap import but there seem so many to choose from. I'm hoping for about 320-330 bhp and as much torque as possible. Car is running a fully decat system, induction kit and Apexi boost controller. At the moment I'm looking at a Gems, is it a good bet? What are the pros and cons of this and all the other aftermarket ecu's?

 

gems is too pricey imho..

main front runners for function and value for money are ESL board, Apexi or Simtek

if you are after mafless (you mention gems which i) then a Simtek would be ideal

Simon

 

Cheers Simon. Do you know how much the oher ecu's are? I guess there will also be the cost of mapping on top of the purchase price? Which gives the better bhp or ft lb and does any particular ecu stand out as the best? Is there any benefit going maf-less other than not needing to worry about it going faulty?
Thanks
Chris

 

prices

in theory the ecu is just a means to an end therefore the bhp/lb shouldn't be different, although the SimTek has very high resolution enabling very fine ignition and fueling setup.

SimTek is very popular at the moment and for good reason, the Apexi is also very good value for money.

Simon

 

Whatever you do you will need to do something with your injectors, fuel pump (strictly) and also map sensor to allow higher boost to be run under closed loop control (no problem if open loop but you then lose all granularity).

otherwise you won't achieve your target figures.

just so you factor the budget realistically

cheers

bob

__________________________________________________ _________________

Link, Motec, Simtek, EcuTek, PowerFC, DTA, Bosch, Autronic, Gems, ESL

 

crikey you lost me after '..............fuel pump'! I'm a bit of an electronics luddite. My car is a jdm sti2 wagon which came fitted with a chip of unknown origin. I replaced it with a ScoobyECU chip (off ebay) as I was worried about fueling/ignition etc but last weeks session on the rollers showed the car detonating as it came on boost. I've just replaced the fuel pump for a walbro and have been advised to bin the HKS induction kit and replace it with a standard airbox/filter. I'm thinking I'll whip the scoobyecu chip out, replace airbox and try on the rollers again. If still det-ing then replace the ecu with a gems one from tegsport who are only a few miles down the road. Its hard work driving off boost all the time so I want to get it sorted quickly but as cheaply as possible! Is it likely the standard jdm ecu will still cause det-ing once de-chipped. What do you think?

 

if you're going to teg sport get steve simpson to fit a simtek same features as gems at less cost, got steve to remap mine & add anti lag big grin on my face

 

keep hearing good things about simtek but got a very good deal on a gems i know they can be a pain but i want to learn to map and unless you are a simtek dealer you cant map cause the software password protected

 

probably a stupid question coming now but are Simtec's Steve's own ecu's?

 

Not quite true , you can purchase your own software and dongle for your SimTek ecu and map it yourself ...
You do however have to have it mapped originally by a qualified dealer to ensure you get the best result , after this you can do what you like....

 

hmm ok maybe it that you cant map anyone elses

 

Are there any standard subaru ecu's that will get round my det-ing issue and give me more bhp/lb as well? I've seen abit about z4's and there's a couple on ebay. Currently mine's fitted with an SC.

 

or you could turn the boost down

 

it starts to go lean as soon as it starts boosting

 

have you fitted a fuel pressure regulator?

check it is plumbed correctly and that the vac line is on

Simon

 

I've not fitted a fuel regulator but aren't these standard fit?

 

yes but check the vac line is connected... sounds like fuel pressure is not increasing with boost, or fuel pump problem, or fuel filter blocked, or air leak between turbo and maf sensor

Simon

 

Thanks Simon

The fuel pump had been a problem as it was only presurising upto about 2 bar when the fuel return was clamped but new walbro fitted which now pressurises upto about 5 bar. The fuel feed was taken from what I think must be the filter (?? the small cylinder with fuel pipe in and out which is bolted to the n/s suspension turret directly behind the screen washer bottle). If this is the filter does it prove the fuel reg is ok ? cheers

 

anyone??

Also does anyone know if there are any differences between std wrx and sti air box and resonator boxes on a classic?