Hi guys.

I know this question has been asked many times but the threads I follow all seem to refer to modified cars.
I have a 1999 UK wagon. As far as I know it is standard apart from a ITG flat panel air filter and a full standless pipe (don't know about the CAT).
It was just boosting to standard (about .7 bar) and as such seemed very slow. I am used to a 20V FIAT coupe and when I wanted something more practical I looked for sa car which had the same 0-60, around 6.2 secs.
I have to say, either the FIAT has been chipped or the scooby isn't running right, as it is nowhere near as quick.
Anyway, someone else at work has exactly the same car except its a saloon and he told me it was ok to fit a manual boost controller and run at 1bar without changing anything else. I have now done that but if I boot it the boost controller shows an initaial peak of about 1.3-1.4 before leveling out at 1ish. Is this safe or do I need to lower the boost?

Any comments much appreciated.

Russ.

 

Personally I would steer clear from manual boost controllers and I would also think that yoru boost is spiking at a midly 'dangerous' level. I know when I went down the boost controller route I used a Blitz Duel Solanoid and had it set up and det tested on a rolling road. Safe boost on this (1998 Turo 2000) was 1.2 bar. That siad there are far more qualified people on here who can give you sounder advice - I would just say 'be careful until you have had this set up checked our properly'

 

Why ask the same question twice? you had a thread running with the exact same worded question that you already had a reply to....... whats the matter,not happy with that one or what?

Looking at the post times this was the first one you posted........ still cant see why you need two of the same though

 

1.4 bar is way to much on the o/e map!! You cant just up boost, it'll be running super lean and super hot. To run that boost safely you need a remap amoungst other things........Your model car needs alot of £ to get it fast.

 

1.1-1.2 bar would be safe, with a remap it could be higher but you would iin theory reduce the engines life by a few thousand miles.....

Tony

 

1) if it feels much slower than the fiat then either then something is definately up
2) The boost should be .9 peak as std. Limp home mode is .5 IIRC, but that also limits you to 4.5 rpm If memory serves.
3) If its peaking at 1.4 with the controller, it aint controlling the boost very well and you're risking engine damage.
4) Get it to a specialist for inspection pronto!!!!

 

Not worth the risk save up for a remap or standalone APEXI etc, at the end of the day a 20 quid dawes device might give a bit more power but if it blows your engine then it will cost you substantially more. If you want more power get a full decat 3" exhaust panel filter then remap then, if you want more hp then you will need to change your turbo as its a td04 at the moment.
A correctly running wagon should be at least on par with a fiat coupe unless as you mentioned that was modified. Best if your not sure is to get it looked at by the pros then you will know

 

Weren't the early Fiats rated at 200bhp and the later ones at 220bhp, so I'd expect where grip isn't a problem the flimsy 2 wheel drive Fiat will be quicker than the MY99 turbo. There must be something wrong with your boost gauge or your boost controller installation with that much spiking, as a major benefit of a manual controller should be virtually eliminating spiking. You probably have an AE801 ecu rather than the AE802 (the 802 runs richer so can support more boost without extra fuelling). Either way, stick a manual controller on and you're taking a big gamble if you don't have an air/fuel meter and/or knocklink.
Kevin

 

i have a my99 saloon
when i had it i had the thoughts that it was not as quick as it should be
it turned out to be the restricter pill was missing and the car was only boosting on actuater boost.
i had the pill fitted and the car was 100% better but it was hitting fuel cut at 1.2 ish bar
the restricter was 0.9mm
i fitted boost gauge so i could see what was happening
im lead to that my car should boost to 1.1 than hold at 0.9
i drilled the restricter out from 0.9 to 1.0mm
still slighty hitting boost cut
the pill is now drilled out to 1.1mm and road tested and is now hitting 1.1bar at about 4.5 thousand revs in 4th and 5th then backing off to 0.9 and holding perfectly
im amazed that 0.2mm bigger hole would make that much difference but the car is now running and boosting perfectly.
my advice would be to check the vacuum hose for the restricter pill as if this is missing it would explain why you say it seemed slow.
forget your manual boost controller and put it all how it should be with the pill in and check your boost and adjust pill size accordingly
im no expert but just telling the story of my car as it seems you may have same problem.
hope this helps.
update when you can

 

Thanks for everyones replies.
Firstly let me just respond to "rigga". Bit harsh words for a new members first post me thinks. What actually happened was when I went to upload my question it took a very long time and eventually the screen errored. I then pressed F5 and when the screen refreshed there were 2 posts. I couldn't see a way to delete 1 so there was nothing I could do.
As to my question. All I am looking for is a standard car so I will remove the manual controller and then just get it setup by a specialist as is, so long as it goes about as well as the FIAT I will be perfectly happy. First though I need to source a standard dump valve. Someone has fitted a Baileys and I want it off before I have it setup. Has anyone got one they want to sell? Also, can anyone recommend a tuner in the Portsmouth area?

Cheers,

Russ.

 

HDC SUBARU - parts .. breaking .. salvage .. consumables.. mail order should post out a standard dump valve.

Simon

 

If you set the manual controller up in conjunction you risk overboost as the BCS is in its open loop position, once boost builds past target it shuts to the boost the manual controller.

Depending on what type of manual controller you are using (Bleed or Dawes? you don't say), depends on how you correct this.

I'm running a bleed in parallel to my BCS that gives 0.8 bar (fuel cut on mine) steady state (stock is 0.5bar on my Forester) so I also have a restrictor for the combined BCS and bleed flow that keeps the overboost to just 1bar for about the 1 second it takes the BCS to shut.

Simon

 

My apologies,but you are not the first person to post up a question,get a responce and then there is the exact same post again....... bloody annoying to post a reply and then find another exact same quesion..... i can understand how it happened to you though so i guess you are not to blame.... sorry for being so harsh on a new member,illtry to be better behaved in future

 

Good man!

 

I replaced the recirc dump valve on my MY00 (same as 99) as soon after fitting a VF turbo the car often shrieked/ screeched/ whatever when driven hard and it was suggested it was an air leak or a leaking dump valve. Turns out these turbos often do this (it still does) so I've got a dump valve sitting in my shed. The new one was £75+vat, you can have mine for £20 delivered (buy from a breakers and who knows what you're buying).
Kevin

 

Thanks for that offer Kevin, I`ve already ordered one now though from HDC (thanks Simon).
Thanks for that as well "rigga", hate to not get off on the right foot.
Hi Wraggy, excuse my ignorance but I`m not sure what you mean by the restrictor pill?
Once I have my standard dump valve back on I should be able to see where I`m really at, god knows what effect the Baileys and all its extra pipe work is having at the moment.

Thanks again everyone.

 

Hi again Wraggy. Found out what the restrictor pill is and I think mine IS missing. have ordered some replacement pipes off HDC so fingers crossed!
Cheers,

Russ.