Preventing the big bang! Bleed valve removal help
#1
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Preventing the big bang! Bleed valve removal help
Hi. After my previous post and some advise from some scooby friends I've discovered I need to remove a bleed valve that is fitted to my car(previously to purchase!). Can anyone advise me as too the best way of doing this? Aslo, I can't afford to get a re-map straight away, so will the car go back to standard once it's removed or will it run badly? Any advise diagrams or walkthroughs would be greatly appreciated. MERRY CHRISTMAS SCOOBYNET
#2
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what other mods have you got done?, car etc.
a pic of where the bleed valve would be nice.
a very safe way to run, is with a boost pipe from the aucatore to the turbo. they you will only reun around .8 of a bar.
if this is wrong, im sure someone will be alone soon and say so :-)
a pic of where the bleed valve would be nice.
a very safe way to run, is with a boost pipe from the aucatore to the turbo. they you will only reun around .8 of a bar.
if this is wrong, im sure someone will be alone soon and say so :-)
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It's moreless standard bug eye sti import apart from a cat back exhaust and dump valve. The bleed valve is located just left of the intercooler as you look from the front. I'll try and post a picture soon. Whats the aucatore to turbo method? Never heard of a aucatore before.
#4
What would be the point of a bleed valve only running at 0.8 bar when a 2001 sti runs at 1bar standard ;-)
If its lasted this long it'll probably be fine until you get it looked at
Having had them in the past I hate them - cheap and nasty.
You can use a Dawes isnt it on the Scoob, I did use one as a temporary measure when I was having trouble stopping the boost going past 2bar but it transpired it was a dodgy Turbo
Someone else will be able to offer better advice than me on removal - I would have thought the car would be back to normal although may overboost slightly with Cat back aftermarket exhaust
Incidentally you'll liberate a lot more power with a Catless system though MOT's do get a little bit more interesting these days than in the past..........
If its lasted this long it'll probably be fine until you get it looked at
Having had them in the past I hate them - cheap and nasty.
You can use a Dawes isnt it on the Scoob, I did use one as a temporary measure when I was having trouble stopping the boost going past 2bar but it transpired it was a dodgy Turbo
Someone else will be able to offer better advice than me on removal - I would have thought the car would be back to normal although may overboost slightly with Cat back aftermarket exhaust
Incidentally you'll liberate a lot more power with a Catless system though MOT's do get a little bit more interesting these days than in the past..........
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Will the removal of one or both Cats actually make much difference? I've been told that i'll only get another 20ish bhp and it would require a re-map straight after due to boost spikes. Having said that a friend of mine de-catted his mildly modded rx-7 tt and it seemed to massive difference.
#7
hi there u will not require an remap but it is benefiecent to do so in order to gain the full potential of the exhaust system. in my opinion if you want to notice gains then you should buy a bigger bore open neck downpip. i have an 3.5" open neck downpipe on my uk spec with a 3" bore all the way, after a dyno session the outcome was 232.2bhp & 225.8lbs of torque. that also included a HKS panel filter. very noticable gains. hope this helps
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I presume as there is a bleed valve fitted that not all of the original boost solenoid pipework will necessarily be fitted.
For safety.. remove the valve from the pipework and run a single pipe from actuator to compressor cover.. it should then run actuator pressure only which is around 0.6~0.7bar, all being well.
If you then remove the plastic black cover from the boost solenoid / map sensor area (driverside inner wing) and take a picture and post it.. it will then be possible to tell if the original boost solenoid and pipework is present.
Simon
For safety.. remove the valve from the pipework and run a single pipe from actuator to compressor cover.. it should then run actuator pressure only which is around 0.6~0.7bar, all being well.
If you then remove the plastic black cover from the boost solenoid / map sensor area (driverside inner wing) and take a picture and post it.. it will then be possible to tell if the original boost solenoid and pipework is present.
Simon
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