Changing cambelts on bargain Subaru!!
23 October 2007, 07:48 PM
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Changing cambelts on bargain Subaru!!
Hi first post n sorry tis a question only jus got me a subaru and found ya!
I have bought a Legacy GT twin turbo for £100!!
Reason it was so cheap was the water pump has jus died n MoT has jus expired..
So before i begin how do i lock the 4 cams in position please? I imagine that the actual pump replacement wont be too bad jus mark the bolts was what i could find from a wiki, but very worried bout them cam belts..!
So any advice greatly appreciated please!! Thanx
And sorry i know its not a Scooby (but it was Scooby inspired) this was my last project that I built, it was gonna get Scooby power but i've sold it now! - then typically the Legacy showed up!
I have bought a Legacy GT twin turbo for £100!!
Reason it was so cheap was the water pump has jus died n MoT has jus expired..
So before i begin how do i lock the 4 cams in position please? I imagine that the actual pump replacement wont be too bad jus mark the bolts was what i could find from a wiki, but very worried bout them cam belts..!
So any advice greatly appreciated please!! Thanx
And sorry i know its not a Scooby (but it was Scooby inspired) this was my last project that I built, it was gonna get Scooby power but i've sold it now! - then typically the Legacy showed up!
Last edited by Peet; 23 October 2007 at 07:51 PM.
23 October 2007, 08:45 PM
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the bottom left green pulley in this picture http://www.jollygreenmonster.com/fil...t_complete.jpg
if you remove it the belt can be removed.. obviously find tdc first..
you then remove the belt.. if you are reusing the same belt then mark the pulley marks on the belt..
as you look at the engine the righthand side which is actually the left bank are on cam and therefore if you don't touch them they will stay in place but move them slightly and they will rotate sharpish and frighten the crap out of you.. the left side (righthand bank) are off cam and so easy to position..
replace the water pump... as said a few 10mm bolts from memory.. and a thin gasket.. easy..
then remove the tensioner.. yours should look the same as in the picture..
cylinder bolted to the block.. remove the bolts holding it on.. two..
you then need to compress it slowly vertically.. I use a vice and G clamp.. ie. clamp it vertical and then compress with the g clamp.. then put a pin in it to hold it.
refit.. push the tensioner fully left on the bolt holes.. fit the belt and line up and then put the pulley wheel back in.. or if it is stubbon to get on with the belt on.. put it on with the belt below it.. then move the tensioner to the right and you should be able to force the belt up and over the pulley wheel..
force tensioner to the left.. pull pin.. rotate engine a couple of times.. reset the belt when it is a tooth out..lol and all done.. you need to remove the radiator to aid access..
if it has done a few miles I would replace the crank sensor whilst there as they tend to fail around 100k and a few years etc..
only the extra hassle of removing the crank pulley to replace.
I also always loosen the cam wheel bolts whilst belt is still on and gearbox in gear to hold the engine, then if you find a cam seal is leaking you can get the cam wheel off without hassle.. just remember to do them all up afterwards
Simon
if you remove it the belt can be removed.. obviously find tdc first..
you then remove the belt.. if you are reusing the same belt then mark the pulley marks on the belt..
as you look at the engine the righthand side which is actually the left bank are on cam and therefore if you don't touch them they will stay in place but move them slightly and they will rotate sharpish and frighten the crap out of you.. the left side (righthand bank) are off cam and so easy to position..
replace the water pump... as said a few 10mm bolts from memory.. and a thin gasket.. easy..
then remove the tensioner.. yours should look the same as in the picture..
cylinder bolted to the block.. remove the bolts holding it on.. two..
you then need to compress it slowly vertically.. I use a vice and G clamp.. ie. clamp it vertical and then compress with the g clamp.. then put a pin in it to hold it.
refit.. push the tensioner fully left on the bolt holes.. fit the belt and line up and then put the pulley wheel back in.. or if it is stubbon to get on with the belt on.. put it on with the belt below it.. then move the tensioner to the right and you should be able to force the belt up and over the pulley wheel..
force tensioner to the left.. pull pin.. rotate engine a couple of times.. reset the belt when it is a tooth out..lol and all done.. you need to remove the radiator to aid access..
if it has done a few miles I would replace the crank sensor whilst there as they tend to fail around 100k and a few years etc..
only the extra hassle of removing the crank pulley to replace.
I also always loosen the cam wheel bolts whilst belt is still on and gearbox in gear to hold the engine, then if you find a cam seal is leaking you can get the cam wheel off without hassle.. just remember to do them all up afterwards
Simon
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