Is it a difficult job to change the cambelt on a 98 Turbo? I have the dealer manual and it all looks reasonably strightforward to line all the pulleys up with their respective marks and slip the belt on or am I deluding myself? I am mechanically competent but should I just leave it to a dealer and pay up?

Your experiences please

 

I always replace the tensioner, when doing a belt change.

I have a spare tensioner available. Brand new boxed original. MY98 on.


Bob

 

Is a bit of hard work as the LH Cams are opening valves so is a bit of a pain holding them in place while trying to put the belt on.

But yes is straight forward, especially compared to doing a cambelt on a lotus elise!

 

yes, it is quite easy, best bet is remove the rad for better access.
As SSCJAY says the LH Cams (right hand side as you will look at them) are on cam so when the belt is removed they will rotate. They are easy enough to realign them though so no biggy.

Tensioners quite often do need replacing, I believe the earlier tensioners are the better type and a few of the tuners use them.

Once you have replaced the belt and set the tensioner etc, rotate the crank a good few times just to make sure everything is still as it should be before reassembling the covers and radiator etc. Should be do able in a few hours

 

The procedure for setting the tensioner is not explained in the manual so what do I need to do?

 

If it's an early one remove the piston/ cylinder assembly from the tensioner and place it in a vice or press to compress the piston into the casing (note, do this very slowly as putting too much pressure through it can cause it to leak and fail). Once it's compressed, use a small allen key to hold the piston in the compressed position (using the holes). Then reinstall and when it's all back in place, remove the allen key allowing the piston to put pressure on the tensioner wheel.

 

Thanks for the info, all I need now is a puller for the flywheel. I also have an oil leak which must be dripping onto the exhaust somewhere as I get a burning smell after a drive. A previous MOT said there was oil leaking from 'the rear of the engine, possibly the crank seal or sump'. It can't be a bad leak as there's nothing visible and the level hasn't dropped!

 

You dont need a puller for the flywheel ?

 

Front pully comes off easily enough especially if you have an impact wrench.
Otherwise leave car in gear and crack the nut with a breakers bar.