Random Alarm problem? Any ideas?
#1
Random Alarm problem? Any ideas?
My car has been going perfect for me since I bought it a couple of months ago, but just a couple of days back, the keyless alarm system, decided not to be keyless anymore!?
Now before you start saying, change the battery in the fob, it got one of those when I took the car, coz it needed it then alright. And also, the button on the fob still arms/disarms the alarm/immobiliser 100%, but doesn't even try to do anything with the central locking?
Manual key entry, activates the central locking no bother, so everything is grand that way too....weird one. No warnings or sparatic behaviour prior to this fault. It just 'stopped' wanting to work?
Over to you guys! Any ideas?
Now before you start saying, change the battery in the fob, it got one of those when I took the car, coz it needed it then alright. And also, the button on the fob still arms/disarms the alarm/immobiliser 100%, but doesn't even try to do anything with the central locking?
Manual key entry, activates the central locking no bother, so everything is grand that way too....weird one. No warnings or sparatic behaviour prior to this fault. It just 'stopped' wanting to work?
Over to you guys! Any ideas?
#3
Its a Laserline alarm system. not sure what model though. As I said though, on normal old fashioned 'key in the door' style, the doors all lock/unlock perfect, so the central locking device is sound. Just the button press on the keyfob doesn't wanna do it anymore?
#4
Scooby Senior
there is a motor (actuator) fitted to the drivers door. there is only a switch in the drivers door that tells the other doors to lock when you turn the key. all classic imprezas had to have this as there were no OE remote locking at the time, only door operated
the motor just locks the door and tells the other doors to lock
the motor just locks the door and tells the other doors to lock
#5
ok dude, so let me get this straight, you reckon the motor in the door is in trouble? And that is why only the key operates the central locking for all doors, whereas the push button on the fob, does not?
#6
Scooby Senior
Yes, take the door panel off, a screw in the handle, and the trim around the door open handle, and it'll pop off, just watch the clip where the door meets the dash. and have a look to see if it moves when you arm the alarm
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#8
Ok 500, I got the door panel off no bother (easiest panel I've ever removed in my life!! Nice one!) And looking in on the little I can see, nothing appears to move at all when I press the keyfob, though, when I put the key in the barrel lock and turn, it moves everything as would be expected.
Where abouts is the motor located? Is it easy enough(ish) got to? I could check the voltage going to the motor to see if its getting a signal im sure, and if it is and not doing anything about it, then bingo, need a motor. If it isn't getting a signal then bingo...err....something else! hehe.
Look forward to your input. Cheers as always bud!
Where abouts is the motor located? Is it easy enough(ish) got to? I could check the voltage going to the motor to see if its getting a signal im sure, and if it is and not doing anything about it, then bingo, need a motor. If it isn't getting a signal then bingo...err....something else! hehe.
Look forward to your input. Cheers as always bud!
#9
ohkaaaaaaaay...bit further on, Found the 'popper' solenoid which drives the locking pins up to lock/unlock the doors.
I was able to determine (with the use of my trusty multimeter) that the solenoid is indeed getting voltage when the keyfob button is pressed, but is simply not doing anything about it!
So, i've taken the solenoid out for a bit further inspection.The feel of the 'arm' (which extends to pop the lock) is very weak and with no force needed on my part, can be pulled in and out.
Do you know, if these things require 12v or is it less? I would be interested in firing a direct feed to it to see if it operates then, but given the evidence already, I reckon it wont do a thing.
Well, if thats all I need, then happy days
I was able to determine (with the use of my trusty multimeter) that the solenoid is indeed getting voltage when the keyfob button is pressed, but is simply not doing anything about it!
So, i've taken the solenoid out for a bit further inspection.The feel of the 'arm' (which extends to pop the lock) is very weak and with no force needed on my part, can be pulled in and out.
Do you know, if these things require 12v or is it less? I would be interested in firing a direct feed to it to see if it operates then, but given the evidence already, I reckon it wont do a thing.
Well, if thats all I need, then happy days
#10
Ok....just to throw me off..... the door popper solenoid is actually FINE!
I fired 12v up its **** yesterday and it was working the very best, so going back to my original voltage reading from the supply cable going to it, it IS getting power, but its definately not 12v.
So....what would have caused the sudden loss of power to the door popper?
It is still getting power when I activate the keyfob, so it is working to a degree, but something has gone amiss.
Dry connection? Pierced/crimped cable?
I can see my weekend consisting of a stripping out job to expose all the many miles of Subaru wiring and trying to fault find the alarm one. Man what a jip!!
Aw well, process of elimation.
I fired 12v up its **** yesterday and it was working the very best, so going back to my original voltage reading from the supply cable going to it, it IS getting power, but its definately not 12v.
So....what would have caused the sudden loss of power to the door popper?
It is still getting power when I activate the keyfob, so it is working to a degree, but something has gone amiss.
Dry connection? Pierced/crimped cable?
I can see my weekend consisting of a stripping out job to expose all the many miles of Subaru wiring and trying to fault find the alarm one. Man what a jip!!
Aw well, process of elimation.
#11
Scooby Senior
It'll all prob be under the drivers side, they are a bit fiddly, but you could tape some new cable (about 200mm overlap) to the old one, fairy liquid it up and pull the new through using the old to be on the safe side. If there is 12v at the alarm outputs, then you should be ok.
If you want my number for advise when you are doing it, give me a shout
Where in the country are you?
If you want my number for advise when you are doing it, give me a shout
Where in the country are you?
#12
Hi ya mate, welcome back to the land of the living! Hehe.
I've made a touch more progress. The solenoid has been refitted to its original place again, and I was double checking the voltage going to it....its geting 'something' but barely 1v as it happens!!! I traced the wire on back and hidden amonst a crazy debris of Subaru ISO's and looms, I found 3 fuses in one little after market box.
There was 10amp fuse blown (the other 2 were fine), and I replaced this with a new 10amp, and when I pressed the keyfob 'bang' fuse popped again.
There most be a short somewhere else then huh? Where on earth do you start looking for that!?
I reckon I'm just gonna have to trace each individual cable again to see what its designation and role is.
Unless you have any other inspirations??
Thanks as always!
Oh, and I'm in Armagh, Northern Ireland, you?
I've made a touch more progress. The solenoid has been refitted to its original place again, and I was double checking the voltage going to it....its geting 'something' but barely 1v as it happens!!! I traced the wire on back and hidden amonst a crazy debris of Subaru ISO's and looms, I found 3 fuses in one little after market box.
There was 10amp fuse blown (the other 2 were fine), and I replaced this with a new 10amp, and when I pressed the keyfob 'bang' fuse popped again.
There most be a short somewhere else then huh? Where on earth do you start looking for that!?
I reckon I'm just gonna have to trace each individual cable again to see what its designation and role is.
Unless you have any other inspirations??
Thanks as always!
Oh, and I'm in Armagh, Northern Ireland, you?
#13
Scooby Senior
ahh, not like you could pop round then for me to have a look
the short more than likely will be on the way from the fuse to the motor.
Just trace the wires back from the motor, they should be in the grommet from the door to inside the car. you will have to take the drivers side kick panel/door shut cover off (easy job)
best thing to to is when you trace the wire to a point, give it a tug and see if you can see anything move in the direction it is going. when you find it in the car, do the overlap and tape, a bit of soap where you can get to it and pull a new wire through. chances are that it has caught somewhere and it's shorting out. if you find the short, you could separate it and tape it up.
Worst case scenario is that a relay has gone down in the alarm
the short more than likely will be on the way from the fuse to the motor.
Just trace the wires back from the motor, they should be in the grommet from the door to inside the car. you will have to take the drivers side kick panel/door shut cover off (easy job)
best thing to to is when you trace the wire to a point, give it a tug and see if you can see anything move in the direction it is going. when you find it in the car, do the overlap and tape, a bit of soap where you can get to it and pull a new wire through. chances are that it has caught somewhere and it's shorting out. if you find the short, you could separate it and tape it up.
Worst case scenario is that a relay has gone down in the alarm
#14
Tight advice as always man. I'll get a damn good look at it either tomorrow or Sunday, weather permitting!!
Its such a small thing, but I dont like little things like this!! Gotta keep her right!
I'll update ya when I've made further progress again.
Have a nice weekend till then bud!
Its such a small thing, but I dont like little things like this!! Gotta keep her right!
I'll update ya when I've made further progress again.
Have a nice weekend till then bud!
#15
Nope! I have to give up, I've done all I could to try and find the cause. Found a couple of other little things with poor wiring which I was able to fix, so im glad of that at least. Who knows what I have helped prevent later in life!
I'm just gonna have to say fair game, and hand the job over to someone more qualified to see what they can do for me.
Cheers for your help 500, it was good of ya to take the time to try to get me sorted!
I'm just gonna have to say fair game, and hand the job over to someone more qualified to see what they can do for me.
Cheers for your help 500, it was good of ya to take the time to try to get me sorted!
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