JAPSU

I have just enquired with a few modifying companies about starting to tune my engine.

My current spec is as follows:
1993 WRX Engine Code EJ20G DW/HJ I understand it had a full engine rebuild last year with a STI short block added, TD05 Turbo, BOV, Oil Catcher Tank, Iridium’s and Induction air filter, full stainless large bore decat cat back system. It also has a Legacy Gear Box (I’m told they are stronger than standard) with short shifter and a adjustable rear diff (set at 50/50).(Standard ECU re-mapped) It's also had alloy boot, bonnet, and doors x4 with a set of MIM lightweight alloys and suspension done. (Cam belt changed last year)

What I'm thinking of fitting
Cheap Option

fuel pump (upgrade) or fuel pressure regulator (which ever you advise)
knocklink
boost controller (set up to maximum advised boost)
FCD
Re map ECU and Rolling Road Tune.

Maybe add a Prodrive ECU ?? if this has an advantage

Alternative more expensive Option

fuel pump (upgrade) or fuel pressure regulator which ever you advise
knocklink,
change the ECU for a mappable one & Set up on rolling road

Additional to above depending on cost:-
Larger top mount intercooler or front mount intercooler?
Header Pipes


The response I'm getting from a local tuning company is as follows:
With the classic shape impreza they don’t have a strong engine and if you modify the car to much expect it to need to re-build the engine every year or two. Basically anything more than a cat back exhaust and air-filter and you are at the limits of the standard ecu.

The only way of adding further mods would be only if you fit a re-mappable ecu and maximum safe boost would be 1 bar

Comments please:

myblackwrx

iTrader: (1)

How did they remap the standard ecu as, up until a few months ago, could only have a chip added to them (or is that what you meant?).
Uprating the fuel pump is a good idea anyway may have to do the fpr as the can be overpowered on the early cars.
The 93 wrx had a closed deck block which is more than capable of decent bhp (300 with fuelling mods etc) but you've said it has an STI block and i think they are semi-closed (don't quote me though )but still good for 300+bhp imo, it's just the internals that are the limiting factor (along with turbo ,fuelling etc)
Your cheap option i don't see the point of the FCD or boost controller just go for a remap (PolarPerformance offer 3 options).

dan83590

Agree with that. I had my ECU chipped on a 93WRX, should be running at somewhere between 280-300 brake. It runs sweet as, even with 90000 miles.

You need to de-cat before you fit any chip though. Click on the link above, Scott has some good options to choose from, one of the options won't break the bank either.

RedScoob

Agree with the previous posters. Mine is a 95WRX with the ESL daughterboard chip and breathing mods. With decent brakes and suspension, that gives a pretty good all-round and reliable package. As a day to day car (which mine is) you get the benefits of better performance, and you only need to stick with normal maintenance...
BTW, the TD05 can happily supply 1.1 - 1.2 bar without issues.

mac12

mine has a full decat (downipe wrapped and painted and a turbo jacket)green panel filter,walbro fuel pump,scott.t chip,quick shifter and around 280bhp...
i'm sticking at that now i think (power wise)because it feels really good on the road and it's in daily use and the old girl is getting on a bit.
plus with only weighing 1150 or there abouts 280bhp is plenty for me and has only cost around £750 to get it there.

rossyboy

iTrader: (8)

Runs out of puff at about 1.5 bar with the right supporting mods (FMIC, Injectors, FPR, Fuel pump, ported oe/stainless headers)

Jolly Green Monster

iTrader: (4)

firstly you must be talking to the wrong tuning place..

engines are strong if looked after correctly..

the rear diffs are not adjustable.. centre DCCD diffs are.. but unlikely you have one..
Legacy box is no stronger

If you are having the ecu remapped then no point changing to a prodrive one etc.. if memory serves me correct all the doors are the same.. there are no light weight ones.. just 2 or 4 door length etc..

ESL daughter board is a great way to have the original ecu remapped or a PowerFC also does an excellent job.

The points that need addressing on the early car is the intercooler and the fuel supply and the boost control and a remap to suit, ignoring all the obvious exhaust change you have already had done.

Sticking with standard intercooler and standard injectors and add an adjustable fuel pressure regulator (but avoid the cheap rubbish, go with fuelab, sx, aeromotive etc) and fuel pump and remap with boost controller (even as simple as a dawe device) should see a nice 1.2bar..

Change the intercooler and injectors as well as above and 1.4bar is very nice.

Simon

Jolly Green Monster

iTrader: (4)

agreed.. if you get to 1.5bar and want more.. time for a bigger turbo, maf change etc..

Simon

JAPSU

OK sounds like it might not cost me as much as I thought to give it some more umph....

myblackwrx:
I meant take the ecu back to zero so it can learn the new mods ... I thought this was called a remap?

Jolly Green Monster
must admit they dont specialise in Scoobys.

Regarding diff, maybe I've been spun a tale by the guy I bought it off but he said the diff was adjustable and it has a letter R on he said which shows its a special one ... regarding its position it looks as if its the rear?? and also he told me the TT Legacy box was stronger as the legacy had more power another spun tale maybe... so that leads me to doubt its had a STI short block fitted ??? but I suppose these are all bits hard to check out.

Regarding the doors its a 4 door and all 4 doors are alloy same as the boot and hood and I'm told only ways about 1100 weight as apposed to the standard 1400 weight

I add

It seems really quick now but does seem to judder very slightly as if fuel starvation, or cant breath enough (very slight but enough to notice) Ive done the obvious cleaned the filter put a heat shield in and undone the cover from the bonnet vents but still does it so guess its more likely fuel ... It's worse when pulling away in 4th -5th Its OK when revs are up ...... Its also good top end as well and i've had 155-160mph out of it which seems respecatble.

With regards to the intercooler .... I'm told the front mounts can be a do it yourself job but is a real pig to fit ... I can also see that my Tommi Karrai bumber would need to be modified ..... so is it worth doing or just go with a nice fat top cooler?

myblackwrx

iTrader: (1)

Remapping is basically giving the ecu a new set of instructions which,as i said earlier, wasn't capable of being done until now.

Did the person you buy it off not give you any paperwork for the bits done to the car?
i'm sure if you can find the engine code on the block and the diff someone like Welcome to the API website (ask for David) and he may identify it.

FMICs normally require modding (i.e. cutting) to get them to fit and after seeing my mate get a bigger TMIC fiited to his 94 wrx and the hassle it was a fmic looks an 'easier' option.

myblackwrx

iTrader: (1)

fuel pump £80
FPR approx £180+
remap £500+
fmic £300+
- Flat4online.co.uk Subaru Impreza Mitsubishi Evolution EVO Walbro Fuel Pumps Injectors Intercoolers to see what you can buy

no 3 cylinder (right next to the turbo) is a weak spot as it will get bloody hot (especially at the speed you mentioned on your private road obviously and the scoop isn't very efficent over about 110+mph.

Jolly Green Monster

iTrader: (4)

no that is not a remap.. the ecu retards the timing if it detects det/knock, but resetting it you advance it back.. but it will not
learn for mods etc.. it won't magically know you have changed the exhaust and it needs more fuel for example or
to take fuel out because you have fitted a more powerful pump etc..

told lots of tales, unfortunatly by the sounds of it.

sounds like plug misfire.. probably needs the coil packs replacing and the plug gaps reduced to 0.6mm.

depending on your intended goal power wise a larger top mount will surfice.. the 97/98 goes on without a huge amount of hassle. Main problem is space between throttle body and bulk head whcih can be sorted.. but in someways the benefits on the front mount and slightly extra hassle out weighs the hassle of cutting things up.

Simon

Jolly Green Monster

iTrader: (4)

myblackwrx,

sorry I type to slow you already on most of it

Simon

Jaxx_USA

simon has the right plans
i will add:
another IC option is the ARC top mount big $ though. the stock black slanty IC starts to crack/come apart at +-18psi
absolutely no need for a FCD if your getting a chipped
the stock injectors are the big limiting factor
in the states we have been swapping out the old style coil packs and wiring in the GD style with the integrated igniter

myblackwrx

iTrader: (1)

Better to have too much info then not enough

EOEUMC

iTrader: (5)

I thought that the standard jap WR's had alloy bonnets, boots and front wings!
I also sent Scott T an email the other day saying about the fuel pump and fpr with one of his chips. My answer was "they wouldn't be required"

Jolly Green Monster

iTrader: (4)

All the wings are the same.. other than 22b.. no special ally ones.. they are all just waffffffffer thin mints, I mean steal..

ARC or APS top mounts are good.. but you need to make sure the air from the bonnet scoop flows through them.. mistake I often see if to fit a larger top mount and remove the undertray from the bonnet.. so the air just passes over the intercooler.. you need to make a new undertray etc..

Also the bonnet vents blanking plates should be left on.. they cause a chimney effect when stationary and actually increase intake temps.

Simon

rossyboy

iTrader: (8)

Only the bonnets are alluminium. Take a magnet to the boot, wings and doors and it will stick.....

EOEUMC

iTrader: (5)

If the boot is steel, then its bloody light as anything

trails

iTrader: (41)

and only on sti's and RA's...

Andy Stevens

All Japs have aluminium bonnets. The reason the steel boot feels light is because of the assistance springs. Not that it is particularly heavy, but it isnt alu as mines going rusty

rigga

iTrader: (4)

Yes even my jdm wagon has an ally bonnet.....

trails

iTrader: (41)

that's news to me...can you tell me where the information comes from ?

Ta.

Scott.T@PolarPerformance

early UK's also had Ally bonnets. My old MY94 did.
I think the steel bonnet came in around that time due to updated crash tests that the Jap cars didn't need to adhere to.

midas303

On my 94 WRX import the gearing allows a top speed of 140mph in 5th at 4000 revs you do 80mph, at 5000 revs you do 100mph ect ect , at 7000 revs 140mph. Only attempted it one didn't want to bounce it on the rev limiter.....