how difficult to change a turbo
#1
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how difficult to change a turbo
How easy is it to change a turbo on a early classic, ie whats involved, how long should it take, any additional bits that I am likely to need etc
also does anyone have a guide for doing this.
I will be changing from a wee VF10 to a tdo5
Cheers
also does anyone have a guide for doing this.
I will be changing from a wee VF10 to a tdo5
Cheers
Last edited by jaytc2003; 21 May 2007 at 11:39 AM.
#2
The task is very simple but there are several probs, all nut/bolts seized etc.
You have to work under and over the engine bay and if it all has never been off before, be ready for quite a struggle as access is tight.
I am assuming you are good with spanners and appropriate swear words working in a simple home garage like the rest of us.
Be sure to get the water cooling hose PROPERLY back in place; easy to not get it right as it is so hard to get at.
I would allow one good day to do it all.
Graham
You have to work under and over the engine bay and if it all has never been off before, be ready for quite a struggle as access is tight.
I am assuming you are good with spanners and appropriate swear words working in a simple home garage like the rest of us.
Be sure to get the water cooling hose PROPERLY back in place; easy to not get it right as it is so hard to get at.
I would allow one good day to do it all.
Graham
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1st time took me about 5 hours, second time about 2 1/2
It all depends how easy the nuts/bolts come un-done.
Make sure you drain the coolant before removing the coolant hoses. You may think you won't loose much coolant as the turbo is quite high, but you will and it makes a mess, of which you have to lie in when working from underneath. It will also land in your exhaust header heatshiled which takes a while to get rid of and generates lots of smoke/steam for the 1st day or so.
Use washing-up liquid on intake rubber and oil return to aid re-fitting.
It all depends how easy the nuts/bolts come un-done.
Make sure you drain the coolant before removing the coolant hoses. You may think you won't loose much coolant as the turbo is quite high, but you will and it makes a mess, of which you have to lie in when working from underneath. It will also land in your exhaust header heatshiled which takes a while to get rid of and generates lots of smoke/steam for the 1st day or so.
Use washing-up liquid on intake rubber and oil return to aid re-fitting.
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Cheers Graham,
1 day, I was hoping for an hour or 2 (as in experience on nissan turbo's)
Turbo will have been off before as it should have a tdo5 on it, however when mapping we found it to be a vf10 and it had a scrapyards fluro markins on it. Downpipe has been off as well within the past year so that side of things should be okay. (touches wood and prays)
Can I remove the turbo with the up pipe attached, as I have a spare up pipe from an engine that I have sitting around so I can put that on the replacement turbo and then "drop" it into place. Also are there any gains to be had with porting the up pipe as I notice they do have a ridge in them (my spare one does anyway)
Are there any special tools required, new gaskets etc, think most turbos with water cooling have issues with the banjo going in correctly (certainly the nissan ones were tricky)
1 day, I was hoping for an hour or 2 (as in experience on nissan turbo's)
Turbo will have been off before as it should have a tdo5 on it, however when mapping we found it to be a vf10 and it had a scrapyards fluro markins on it. Downpipe has been off as well within the past year so that side of things should be okay. (touches wood and prays)
Can I remove the turbo with the up pipe attached, as I have a spare up pipe from an engine that I have sitting around so I can put that on the replacement turbo and then "drop" it into place. Also are there any gains to be had with porting the up pipe as I notice they do have a ridge in them (my spare one does anyway)
Are there any special tools required, new gaskets etc, think most turbos with water cooling have issues with the banjo going in correctly (certainly the nissan ones were tricky)
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I did the very same job last weekend VF12 - TD05 and ecu swap for the first time on the impreza, I've done numerous nissan before (s13/s14a) and it took me 5 hours in total mainly due to akward angles and seized nuts. Also did the whole lot from above without any problems. Once the downpipes off (3 nuts 2 nutts/bolts) you'll fly thru the rest.
#6
I would not fit the uppipe to the turbo and then down on the headers as everything needs to 'float' about to take up a relaxed position and then progressivly tighten it all up; leaves almost nothing binding and fighting.
I've never been able to get the very botton d/p nut off unless under the car, but I'm left handed and twice as old as you lot!
The oil feed is a bango on my Sti V3 on the block and the turbo housing, the water link is a simple sleeve tube, just really awkward to me.
With the fact that those parts have been recently off the car, a drop of WD 40 and it will be a breeze.
The coolent spillage is to be avioded as it does not dry off due to the addatives.
I drain my rad down to well below the turbo. Keep all the fluid to re-use.
Graham.
I've never been able to get the very botton d/p nut off unless under the car, but I'm left handed and twice as old as you lot!
The oil feed is a bango on my Sti V3 on the block and the turbo housing, the water link is a simple sleeve tube, just really awkward to me.
With the fact that those parts have been recently off the car, a drop of WD 40 and it will be a breeze.
The coolent spillage is to be avioded as it does not dry off due to the addatives.
I drain my rad down to well below the turbo. Keep all the fluid to re-use.
Graham.
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Oil feed is a banjo to the block and a banjo to the front of the turbo.
But oil return to the sump is the push fit vertical pipe directly under the turbo.
To get this off just pull the turbo up hard when everything else has been removed. To get back on you need to get intermit with the car and guide it on. this is where plenty of lubrication comes in handy
But oil return to the sump is the push fit vertical pipe directly under the turbo.
To get this off just pull the turbo up hard when everything else has been removed. To get back on you need to get intermit with the car and guide it on. this is where plenty of lubrication comes in handy
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